delav

I don't have any experience with the '13 X forged or Rocketbladez. At a 0.7 handicap, I'd probably suggest either the CMB or the X-Forged. I've hit the CMB and read numerous reviews... Thanks to a little Christmas bonus, these will be going in my bag for 2013.

A true muscleback blade is a giant leap from a Callaway Fusion iron. I'd find a players cavity iron that you like the look of, with a shaft that fits your swing. There are plenty of 'am I ready for blades' or 'blades helped me drop 5 strokes' threads on this forum... My personal belief is that blades are romanticized on internet forums and that a cavity or players cavity would fit most amateur golfers better. The guys on tour trust their equipment to deliver paychecks, and many of these guys aren't playing musclebacks either. Truth be told, I've got a set of blades in the basement and I score better with my '09 TPs. With clubs like the AP2, Adamns CMB, etc, there are simply better options out there for most guys.

Launch angle, trajectory and spin rates are 90% shaft and 10% head.

I still struggle with this as well. I've found that contracting my abdominal muscles slightly at address and increasingly into impact helps me keep my butt on the wall and spine angle where it should be. It also has helped my posture during the swing. Give it a shot alongside the range bucket drill... it may help.

It's hard to tell from the photos above, but it looks like a fairly assymetrical and deep clubhead... Perhaps the graphics on the crown are to distract from this. The flux capaciter-looking device on the sole looks out of place and poorly integrated. Aesthetically this is a swing and a miss for me... I'll keep the R11!

I'm playing the R11TP, and several of the guys I play with use this club (or the S) as well. I haven't ever seen a player adjusting the head to fit the shape of a hole or to combat swing flaws that produce wayward shots... and I don't think that is the intention of an 'adjustable' driver. While the R11 head did allow me to slightly alter the launch angle and shape bias to suit how I'd like to hit the ball, once I found settings that I liked, I've left the wrench at home. That is the real benefit of these heads; allowing a player to set up the head to produce a more precisely defined ball flight.

I agree with k-troop above. The TTDG x-stiff shafts are likely making golf much more difficult than it needs to be. Rather than reshafting, I'd try and sell your irons and purchase a set fit for your swing.

Why not donate some plasma and pick up a TM R7 425 off of eBay for $50? There are dozens of great drivers that can be had for a song. For most players, moving a old driver on the cheap means a dozen nice balls in the least. While I'd love to help you out, I certainly love "free" Pro V1s.

It's really too bad that Kevin didn't 'break' his putter... I've been dying to give this old Scotty Cameron away to a charitable cause.

You've actually got the foundation of a great swing. Although the club is getting inside, you seem to be turning your shoulders about your spine well, and your hand's aren't coming out of plane like many do that have this type of takeaway. On your backswing, feel increasing pressure between the left thumb and the pad of your right palm. Let your left wrist hinge vertically on the way back, trying to keep the clubhead outside of your hands (you can practice this up and down hinging feeling at address, too). This will get the club 'vertical' quicker and help you get the club on plane rather than stuck behind you.

This logic just doesn't work. The same basic things could have been said about oversize drivers a decade ago, and most of us have adopted drivers exceeding 400ccs. The physics behind the a long putter are superior to a traditional putter... they make poor putters and strong putters better alike. Most golfers make a more repeatable stroke with a long putter, and accuracy is improved due to the fixed handle. It seems illegal... and it probably should be. Go ahead and exchange "long putter" with "460cc modern driver" and the statement above is identically appropriate. Multi-materials, moving weights, increased MOI, greater COR... it's all very similar. Hating the long putter because it's mechanically superior, or worse, 'looks bad' is just plain silly. Until it's banned by the USGA, putting with the putter anchored will make putting easier for the vast majority of players. I believe that this argument is valid. I've played for years with a traditional putter or all shapes, styles and brands... I've also struggled for years to consistently make those clutch 6-5' putts. With a long putter, my index has dropped by 0.5 while I'm consistently making 3-4 more putts per round (I'm hitting the ball marginally lately). It feels unfair, because in my humble opinion, it is unfair. It's simply a more mechanically sound way to roll the ball and make putts.

That video is far from scientific, or conclusive. While there is certainly a difference between the OEM/made-for shafts and a true aftermarket shaft, we don't how comparable these two shafts were in the first place. Was the made-for shaft a 55g ultra-light driver shaft, and the aftermarket Aldila a 95g hybrid shaft? The creator had an obvious bias in illustrating this difference. A much better comparison would be seeing launch data from a 'real' and made-for shaft in an identical head off of various points on the face. that is something I'd like to see. I think Shorty nailed it here. Obviously the aftermarket shafts are superior equipment, but the majority of mid and high-handicap players would likely hit worse shots with a 'real' shaft. The manufacturers optimize these made-for shafts to provide ideal results for the average player.

30 yards from a driver fitting for someone likely swinging below 90 mph?! Come on now. If you're fighting a slice, you're absolutely swinging inefficiently. I'd take a lesson for a PGA certified pro and work getting the club on proper plane coming into the ball. You'll pick up yards and confidence, while watching your index fall. One of my playing partners is 5'5'' and he hits the ball a solid 270 off the tee... great swing an impact position.

Your head move quite a bit during your swing, and it looks like you're picking up your arms a bit quickly too. It's hard to tell from this view, but as others have said it looks like your right hand is gripping the club pretty weak. Post a caddie (front) view when you can.

There are tons of good options available for a ~9 handicap player... what is your budget, and what type of a look and feel do you prefer. Coming from X-18s, most better players irons will look and feel very different.

Cool. The R11 is a good head!

Great looking clubs! I'd love a set of AP2s... but couldn't quite stomach the price. The TM TPs I'm playing are a good playing substitute, but no match for the feel of the AP2. Do you find you have a big gap between your 52 and 62? I've got a 20 yard gap between my 52 and my 60.

I did not say one was better than the other. I in fact prefer the sound and feel of the older model, too.

The feel, look and sound are much more noticable than the performance difference. I really liked the Superfast TP 1.0.

I currently play an old (awesome) R7 TP TS (tour spoon) that is 13 degrees. This club is a cannon, and I really have grown to love it. I tend to hit the ball high, and carry a 16 degree hybrid. As a result, the strong 3 wood fits between my driver and hybrid and I use it for tee shots where I want to place the ball between 260 and 280 yards. To the OP - as another poster mentioned, if you're hitting your driver 240 and your standard 3 wood 200, it's unlikely that the lower loft will benefit your distance. You may get more roll, but at your swing speed you're going to get less carry and additional side-spin. I'd leave the 3 wood in the bag and work on increasing your lag and clubhead speed (the distance will come).

A skill that is common among many strong players is the ability to hit a variety of shots with a single club... most particularly the short irons and wedges. While your approach is certainly unique, you're likely reinforcing the belief that you need a particular club to hit a certain kind of shot. On the contrary, many teaching professionals advocate the use of fewer wedges (let alone a 64 degree wedge) to develop feel and shot making for finesse shots. To each his own, but this seems like a bit of a crutch to me.

Congrats to T.S. and the Golf Evolution team. The stark difference in the photos above is incredible... what a testament to solid instruction as well as player dedication (less than year?!).

Take a look at the "ball flight laws" and fix the path of the club :)

I agree with several pots by EverythingGolf here. "Fixing" a slice should have little to do with rotating or manipulating the hands and clubface. While an agressive rolling of the wrist may help temporarily cure the slice, a golfer heeding this advice with an out-to-in swing path will end up aligning far right, only to pull hook the ball back into play. Breaking the muscle memory and alignment issues from here become very difficult. The OP needs to study the ball flight laws and understand the root-cause of side spin on the golf ball. A bit of hard work on swing plane and proper impact position will reap years of benefit for any golfer.

Let's wait until this get's moved to the appropriate forum.