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Can I be the forum test case?


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I like the idea of specific groups. Uppin' and downin' is my biggest problem.  My drives are OK, usually in regulation, leaving me 100 - 150 yards to go. I hit the green maybe 25% of the time, and if I'm off I'm in real trouble. I've been studying wedge play a lot, but can't put that all into play yet as my new set of irons aren't due in until Monday 6/6/11.  I got TM Graphite Burner 2.0 4-AW. I'll be researching and adding a SW and LW asap.  I only have a 45*PW and a high bounce SW with my current set, which is all wrong for me. The new sticks are just a beginning. I need low bounce wedges as the turf here is like a rock, as is the sand. We've had no rain in almost 4 months and the courses are burnt up. I've made the financial commitment to get fitted for the new irons and additional wedges, so now I plan on learning to use them!  Most of the greens here are elevated, which makes it impossible for me to get on the green from anywhere close. I hit them fat and skull the ball.....with great consistency! Forget taking a divot, it's like hitting off a rock. ( I can't afford to play the good courses, I'm stuck with the muni's)

New wedges will be 7* bounce on the PW and AW, yet to be determined on the other two.

Can I be the test case for this forum?  Ya'll get me using wedges better and I'll buy you all a beer

Burner 2.0 Graphite 4-AW
09 Burner 10.5*
08 #3 Burner 15*
09 Burner 3H
09 Burner 4H
TM-110 putter

Vokey 56.11
Titleist NXT 

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Well thanks for making a start.....

I agree with you first thought would be to go for low bounce wedges, but I personally feel that might be a mistake ..... you can chip or pitch with a 12 degr. bounce wedge from concrete..... it has more to do with technique that with bounce.

General thinking is PW and AW which will be used for full swings will need to have a bounce that matches your set. The AW in your set has the loft and bounce of what is about regarded a normal pitching wedge.

The about minimum bouce for a SW is about 9-10 degrees, but if the sand is soft and fluffy a 11-13 degrees bounce might prevent you from digging in deep.

If you want to add a SW and LW, I would take the SW with a higher bounce (at least 10) and the LW with a lower bounce.

In your new set the PW is 45* loft and the AW is 50* loft ..... I can'f find the bounces, but normally these would be about 6-7 in set's wedges ...... best might be to keep the 5 degr gaps in the wedges.

So I would suggest a 55/10 or 56/10 SW (plus a 60/08 LW if you really need a LW).

Some brands offer dual bounce wedges, opening these you have a reduced bounce.

It is actually some thing you can write books about, but in chipping you have the weight forward, shaft leaning forward, hit the ball first, grounding after impact ...... so bounce is not involved and in pitching of sandplay it is ground first and the bounce slides the club under the ball. So for a SW I would advise the bounce to be based on the sand in your bunkers (but you maybe also play at courses with better sand,,,,, so if you take a low bounce SW .... you might be lost at other courses.

In my set the PW is even 44* ......... my wedges are Bob Vokey 48/06 | 52/08 bent to 53/09 | 58/08 ..... our sand is also hard, but I also have a 54/11 Bob Vokey (that I take with me instead of the 53/09 when I know the sand is softer).

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

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Thanks for the reply.  I just picked up the new irons today. No time to experiment until next week and then I have to go out of town for a week, That sucks :(

I did find a new practice range today that has two practice bunkers, two chipping greens, and a par 3.  I think I'll be spending a lot of time there even if it is 25 miles from home.

You're correct about the bounce in the TM Burners, PW and AW = 7*. Lofts are 45* & 50*. The Burner SW = 55/11 and the LW = 60/12.

I'm fairly sure I'll get a BV 56/11 for the sand and decide the need for a LW later.

I'll check in after my trip and after I've had time to hit the range. Maybe I'll even sneak in 18!

Thanks for running this group too. I hope to learn much more and strengthen this part of my game.

Burner 2.0 Graphite 4-AW
09 Burner 10.5*
08 #3 Burner 15*
09 Burner 3H
09 Burner 4H
TM-110 putter

Vokey 56.11
Titleist NXT 

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If you browse the forum, there is many info on wedges and bounces and there are so many different views. There are also many different courses and preferences, it is hard to tell what works for one, doesn't need to work for another.....

Take chip and run ...... I prefer a low shot (7 or 8 iron) and let it roll towards the pin, while others like to use their GW or even a LW to land it close to the hole, let it check and roll a few feet only. All I can say ...... it is way easier to judge distance with the low shot and rolling the ball to the hole with the low option, but in the checking option the green and slope has less influence on getting it close.

I am not good enough (even at my level) to profit from a 60 degr. wedge and I personally feel they are no tool for a midcapper.

It might be a good thought to just go for one extra wedge like that 56/11 (can be bent to 55/10 or 57/12) and decide from there if you need the 60 degree.

Or opt for a 54 + 58 ......

I know it is only 2 degr. difference, but most people can handle a 58 way better than a 60 or even a 62.

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

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  • 2 months later...

Maybe you should try and roll the ball more instead of using wedges, like a bump and run shot, offcourse practise with the wedges, but out there on the course

stick with the bump and run shot's, even on mishits the result is much more consistent.

If you top a wedge chip the ball would be off the green on the other side, if you fluff a wedge chip it would hardly make the green, a thin 7 iron would still be close because you have

planned to let the ball roll, only it didn't go in the air at all and the first cut off grass will put some of the extra speed of the ball. a fluff chip with 7 iron just travels further that with a wedge, and also

by chipping 7 iron fluff chips hardly happen because off shorter backswing.

Try to use up to 7 irons. I only play wedge chipshots if i need to carry the ball over a bunker or so,

otherwise i always play the bump and run shot. I even use my hybrid for chipping.

For better result try to land the ball on the green and than let it roll.

I know it's doesn't look great but it gets the job done.

So keep practising the wedges and use the irons more on course, knocking a few chip shots close

would also do your confidense good, this will help your wedge shots also.

Dirver: Mizuno JPX 825 9,5 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 65 g.
3 wood: Mizuno JPX 825 14 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 75 g.
Hybrid: Mizuno JPX 825 18 Fujikura Orochi Red Eye Stiff 85 g. 
Irons: Mizuno MP 59 3 / PW KBS Tour stiff shaft ( Golf Pride Niion )
Wedges: Taylormade ATV Wedges 52 and 58 ( Golf Pride Niion )
putter: Taylormade ghost series 770 35 inch ( Super Stroke slim 3.0 )
Balls: Taylormade TP 5

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Note: This thread is 4605 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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