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Terrible at shaft cutting. Please help


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So, I thought I'd try a bit of shaft cutting as part of my desire to be able to do some very basic club building on my own. I have the [URL=http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_GW1204_A_cn_E_47]GolfWorks Assembly Kit[/URL] (which contains a few types of shaft cutters, I think) and I was using the Tube Cutter. But I was clearly using it incorrectly - I kept tightening it, thinking the wheel-looking thing inside it would cut the shaft. I've since seen a video (my first thought after seemingly crushing this shaft was to look for the "how to" videos on YouTube, although the ones I've seen seem to gloss over the actual cutting part, assuming that there's some semblance of tools knowledge among the viewer) says to tighten it a bit and then try to turn it, but this hasn't been effective on this club either (or I was doing it wrong). Can someone break down proper shaft cutting for me? Feel free to assume I'm bad with tools when you do this (you won't be far from the truth). Can you tell I don't have much experience with tools? Besides the above-linked kit, I also have a bench vise, but not much otherwise in terms of owning tools, nor is anyone in my family really up on working with our hands, so it's not like I have readily available mentoring in this area. To top it off, I had two friends who used to do some club-building, but they've both since left the area so I can't easily ask them (I've been with them for some club-building in the past, but I didn't participate in shaft cutting). Fortunately, I used to collect $5 bin clubs, and I decided I'd try with those first before cutting or re-gripping any clubs I actually cared about. I figured I'd eventually be able to buy used clubs and cut them to be fitting the way I want them to (or maybe build an entire set, or practice clubs, or something). So the pictures you're about to see are of a 3-iron I bought for $5 to try at the range before buying a set that included a 3-iron (back in Spring 2008... so this club has been sitting idle for quite some time). Anyway, pictures, so you can see just how bad at this I am. (feel free to laugh at me, too! I've laughed at my own incompetence here, too) Advice wanted! I'm open to buying additional supplies to properly cut, other than power tools, which I don't feel I'm ready for yet. I'm also fine with it if this club is damaged beyond repair -- I have enough others I can practice on before doing a club I care about, although I'd like to learn a little more before I go about it. I can also cut this one down significantly to practice shaft cutting if it's damaged to the point where I won't be able to use it. (in case it affects things, this is from the grip end of the club in question - I didn't separate the head from the shaft) And, while I'm at it, a related question: how does this change if I'm trying to cut a graphite shaft instead of a steel shaft? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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all I use is a tube- pipe cutter . I do very minimal shaft cutting . now, that little wheel is not a can opener . I see u have learned something . so u do not try to puncture the wheel through and then try to edge it around . not sure if this is what u did . tighten the wheel gently , and if u don't have it tight enough , when u try to spin it around it will move and not hold it's line , so then as u spin it around u may need to just keep tightening it a hair as u spinning it and boom it cuts through and off . for graphite I use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel on it . don't even try to use a tube cutter on graphite , u will splinter the shaft . just my 2 cents
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I've used a hacksaw, but a Dremel tool with cutoff wheel is the ticket - works great for both graphite and steel shafts.

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Thanks to all for your help. [quote name="power aid" url="/t/65375/terrible-at-shaft-cutting-please-help#post_818318"]all I use is a tube- pipe cutter . I do very minimal shaft cutting . now, that little wheel is not a can opener . I see u have learned something . so u do not try to puncture the wheel through and then try to edge it around . not sure if this is what u did . tighten the wheel gently , and if u don't have it tight enough , when u try to spin it around it will move and not hold it's line , so then as u spin it around u may need to just keep tightening it a hair as u spinning it and boom it cuts through and off . for graphite I use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel on it . don't even try to use a tube cutter on graphite , u will splinter the shaft . just my 2 cents[/quote] I have definitely learned my lesson about it not being a can opener. I'll have to give it another try, elsewhere on the shaft apparently (this one is ruined, I take it), erring on the side of "too loose" first. Can you suggest a good dremel tool, and where I might find one? I see some on Amazon but I don't know if there's a difference in the $25 model or the $80 model. For occasional shaft cutting, will I be okay with the $25 model? Is Dremel the brand name you're suggesting, or is it like Xerox where one brand has become synonymous with the product? [quote name="thescarecrow" url="/t/65375/terrible-at-shaft-cutting-please-help#post_818319"]  Also, leave the old grip on, stops blade slipping. [/quote] Hacksaw right through the old grip (and then remove, obviously)? How do you measure where to cut off properly with a grip on? [quote name="inthehole" url="/t/65375/terrible-at-shaft-cutting-please-help#post_818328"]I've used a hacksaw, but a Dremel tool with cutoff wheel is the ticket - works great for both graphite and steel shafts. [/quote] Same cutoff wheel for graphite and steel? Also, same question as above - can you suggest a particular tool for the purchase? Thanks again everyone. I'll give the cutter another try, and the hacksaw (perhaps on another club I can afford to lose if that happens, this time with the grip on), and will probably order a suggested Dremel tool too.

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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Use a hack saw an leave the grip on. Remember, the shaft stops short 1/4" from the top if the grip. The top 1/4" is just rubber. If using a pipe cutter, remove grip, tighten up till it does not slip and then spin the cutter. Tighten lightly every few turns.

Go to golfclubshaftreview.com for a full DIY shaft replacement guide.

Good luck

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Thanks again for the help everyone. Finished cutting it last night successfully (picture at bottom) with the tube cutter. Same process for cutting the tip before putting into a new clubhead? What are the suggestion(s) for graphite shafts? I'm told not to use the tube cutter. If I haven't gotten the Dremel tool yet, is there a preferred method for graphite shafts? Or is that the one strongly suggested for them? The club is now a little shorter than I'd have wanted if I were doing this to a club I intended to use, but since that wasn't the goal, no problem! Now I can put on a new grip to practice that and, before too long, I might know what I'm doing with regards to steel shafted clubs. Thanks again to everyone who posted help for me!

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Another hybrid in here too.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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could use a fine tooth hacksaw for graphite shafts.   Tape over the shaft makes it splinter less.    An abrasive cut off wheel is much faster & cleaner (doesn't splinter the graphite fibers).   YOu can get a cut off wheel (drill arbor with 4" abrasive wheel) for any old electric drill that would do the job if you don't have a Dremel... http://www.amazon.com/26182-4-Inch-8-Inch-Arbors-Mandrel/dp/B005UUQNQA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1

John

Fav LT Quote ... "you can talk to a fade, but a hook won't listen"

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Note: This thread is 4056 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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