Jump to content
IGNORED

Driver questions.


Note: This thread is 3969 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Hello, I just joined, but i have a few driver questions.

I was about a 6hcp before college, but now that I'm here I don't play as much so I've dropped to about a 12.  I currently own a R9 stiff 9.5, but i hit it really high. I was curious if anyone had anything newish to recommend as I want to upgrade/get something with a lower launch. I'm not looking at anything brand new as i can't afford anything 400+ but anything 300 and under I'm game for. Thanks and i look forward to using this forum and site alot in the future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


One of the larger golf stores such as Golfsmith should be able to fit you with a used, demo, or even new but last year(or two year) driver in the $300 range. Local clubmakers(which is usually my choice) can also accomodate you if you have a better idea of the head/shaft combination you are looking for. The only downside is the onsite selection might not be as wide.

Don

In the bag:

Driver: PING 410 Plus 9 degrees, Alta CB55 S  Fairway: Callaway Rogue 3W PX Even Flow Blue 6.0; Hybrid: Titleist 818H1 21* PX Even Flow Blue 6.0;  Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 5-W2(53*) Shafts- TT AMT Red S300 ; Wedges Vokey SM8 56-10D Putter: Scotty Cameron 2016 Newport 2.5  Ball: Titleist AVX or 2021 ProV1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Just an update, today I played and hit everything amazing. Best ive hit since i was a 6hcp 2 years ago and i feel like im at a great starting point for this season. I was bombing my driver, but it was windy today and i started to notice that instead of a high launch its more of a balloning issue. so im wondering what my options are? And don't say my swing because im not hitting it bad just too high.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I would say a lower loft but also combine that with a low-launch shaft. It will help solve that ballooning effect and you might even carry the ball further. Like said earlier just get fit for a club. Good luck with your search.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I used to have an R9 but picked up a new driver because of the same issue you're having. I ended up picking up the new cally razr fit xtreme. It may be worth demoing and trying to pick up a used one. It greatly improved my spin.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by RVAHokie

Yeah but I guess my question is what drivers would you recommend that like I said is about 300 or less with these specs


I just bought a Titleist 910 D3 last week and fell in love with it. If you're asking for recommendations on what you could try, that's my recommendation. Of course, try it on a monitor and see if it works for you. You can get one used for $150-220 and I have heard several people tell me that this year's 913 that just now came out is not that much different from the 910 to justify paying $400-500 for it. Most people I know are only saying that the feel is slightly more responsive, they had little to no gain in yardage and noticed a different sound at impact.

Edit: The resale value according to PGA Value Guide is still hovering around $150-160.00 for one in good/very good condition (a rating of 3 or 4 out of 5)

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by Spyder

I just bought a Titleist 910 D3 last week and fell in love with it. If you're asking for recommendations on what you could try, that's my recommendation. Of course, try it on a monitor and see if it works for you. You can get one used for $150-220 and I have heard several people tell me that this year's 913 that just now came out is not that much different from the 910 to justify paying $400-500 for it. Most people I know are only saying that the feel is slightly more responsive, they had little to no gain in yardage and noticed a different sound at impact.

That seems to be what you find when you look for low launch low spin drivers, my question i guess is do you find the smaller head to be an issue in terms of mishits or when its off center?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by RVAHokie

That seems to be what you find when you look for low launch low spin drivers, my question i guess is do you find the smaller head to be an issue in terms of mishits or when its off center?

I actually prefer the smaller, pear-shaped, "classic" looking head as opposed to the giant 460cc heads on the market right now. I was previously using a Cobra S3 which had a more elliptical shape (narrow in height, but wider to promote more forgiveness in mishits on the high toe and low heel). I typically do not miss the center of the club face by much when I do miss it, so giving up the monstrosity that was my S3 was not a problem in terms of making contact near the sweet spot. In reality, for me, the smaller looking head on the Titleist promotes more awareness of where the face of the club is throughout my swing because it makes me feel like my room for error is substantially smaller now... even though in reality (again, for me...) it is not.

The shaft that I chose is also a major benefit to my game, as well as the 9.5° loft. I play mine on the A1 setting and I now have a much more boring ball flight, which is a good thing. Previously, I was ballooning my drives into the stratosphere and carrying between 250-260 (occasionally grab one with some wind at 270-280) with zero roll-out. In fact, the ball would often come to rest behind the ball mark.

Now, I am typically carrying the ball right right around 250-260 still but I am getting almost 20-25 yards of roll-out. Of course, this depends on ideal conditions and the slope of the fairway, how wet it is, etc.

The general point I am making is that I noticed a true, night and day difference between drivers and I do not see myself getting rid of, or replacing, this driver in a very long time unless I get a very good deal on a 913 D3.

The SureFit setting that you use, as well as your swing speed/tempo, loft and shaft you select is going to all factor in to your ball flight though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by Spyder

I actually prefer the smaller, pear-shaped, "classic" looking head as opposed to the giant 460cc heads on the market right now. I was previously using a Cobra S3 which had a more elliptical shape (narrow in height, but wider to promote more forgiveness in mishits on the high toe and low heel). I typically do not miss the center of the club face by much when I do miss it, so giving up the monstrosity that was my S3 was not a problem in terms of making contact near the sweet spot. In reality, for me, the smaller looking head on the Titleist promotes more awareness of where the face of the club is throughout my swing because it makes me feel like my room for error is substantially smaller now... even though in reality (again, for me...) it is not.

The shaft that I chose is also a major benefit to my game, as well as the 9.5° loft. I play mine on the A1 setting and I now have a much more boring ball flight, which is a good thing. Previously, I was ballooning my drives into the stratosphere and carrying between 250-260 (occasionally grab one with some wind at 270-280) with zero roll-out. In fact, the ball would often come to rest behind the ball mark.

Now, I am typically carrying the ball right right around 250-260 still but I am getting almost 20-25 yards of roll-out. Of course, this depends on ideal conditions and the slope of the fairway, how wet it is, etc.

The general point I am making is that I noticed a true, night and day difference between drivers and I do not see myself getting rid of, or replacing, this driver in a very long time unless I get a very good deal on a 913 D3.

The SureFit setting that you use, as well as your swing speed/tempo, loft and shaft you select is going to all factor in to your ball flight though.

This was a great review. Im always scared to buy anything used off of the internet, but I may go to a golf galaxy or buy a new one off of the internet if i really love it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by RVAHokie

And which of the shafts did you go with i know it comes with a few options.

I tested the best with the Project X 6.0 7C3 Tour .

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Oh so you got fitted. I probably wouldnt because of the extra cost (being a college kid sucks) but do you know anything about the standard shafts that come stock?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Oh so you got fitted. I probably wouldnt because of the extra cost (being a college kid sucks) but do you know anything about the standard shafts that come stock?

The shaft that I referenced is actually a stock option (I'm 90% sure at least....). As for the others, you may be better asking Titleist or researching. I did well with the Aldila option as well, but tighter dispersion with the PX.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


So i have been looking and i might buy a used 910D3 8.5 or 9.5 head and a new aldila RIP alpha 70. Would this combo give me the low launch and low spin im looking for? another question is if i do this combo i need to make sure the head has the shaft sleeve correct?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by RVAHokie

So i have been looking and i might buy a used 910D3 8.5 or 9.5 head and a new aldila RIP alpha 70. Would this combo give me the low launch and low spin im looking for? another question is if i do this combo i need to make sure the head has the shaft sleeve correct?


Well, I would not be able to accurately tell you whether you would achieve the stated 'low launch' that the shaft's specs show. However, you would most likely end up with a more 'piercing' flight and lower trajectory. Also, the 9.5 can adjust down to an 8.5, so that part does not really matter much.

The SureFit adapter is actually attached to the shaft, not the head, so as long as you either buy a shaft that has it equipped on it or buy the SureFit Adapter/Sleeve with Ferrule on eBay, or from a retailer, you should be all set.

Personally, I would recommend calling 1-888-TITLEIST to inquire about the adapter though. You can give them your serial number to verify authenticity and they should be able to hook you up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 3969 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Popular Now

  • Posts

    • Wordle 1,013 3/6* 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 🟩⬜🟩🟩⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • On my car I got the extended power train warranty. I do read the fine print most of the time. Though at now 37, my eyes aren’t what they were 10 years ago.    The problem with most of these extended warranties on electronics and appliances is you don’t register the warranty with the place you buy the warranty from, which I’ve always found strange. Unless it’s GameStop then you know Alina drops her Switch in the next two years and the screen cracks they’ll replace it. No questions asked.    You buy a slow cooker at Walmart for $50 and the extended warranty is say $6, you have to go through a third party to register your product for the warranty, and it’s pretty damn annoying. Target is the same way. Anything you buy the extended protection on you have to go through a third party.    Why do retailers go through a “broker” for warranties? Because they don’t wanna deal with it? They make me talk to someone from another country, that I can barely understand, when I need my warranty fulfilled.   Sorry for the rant.
    • You may be able to find a regular flex Blueboard on the second hand market. I’m little more than half your age so I swing a shaft that launches pretty low so I don’t have a lot of experience with Regular flex (other than when I try to hit it I miss way to the left).    There are other shafts, such as the newer Ping Alta that I’ve heard good things about. And one that no one talks about. The Jupiter shaft. You can get this shaft for a $100 with a grip and your Ping adapter installed. I was talking to the golf manager at Dick’s Sporting Goods here and he has one in his driver and has nothing but good things to say about it. I thought about getting one for my Paradym Triple Diamond to play it a little shorter, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
    • Wordle 1,013 3/6* ⬛🟨⬛🟨🟨 🟩⬛🟩🟩⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Meanwhile, another old Tour Edge guy switches to Callaway for this season. I have a different problem, course dependent set-ups. What I’m wondering is if @dragonsmhas the 8 iron set 5-PW, AW, GW or just 5-PW, GW. Because the PW is 42°, AW 47°, and GW 52°. Because that could potentially be a gap there. The 5-iron to 6-iron length jump is 5/8” instead of 1/2” so you should be careful of that.    @WUTiger the problem most people have with 3-woods is they don’t play them far enough back into their stance. And they usually don’t have enough loft and the shaft is too long. So 3HL, 4 or 5-wood is probably better for most golfers. I do the “Frankenwood” approach. I have both the 3+ and 5 woods. I typically will either add two degrees to the 3+ on 6600 yards or longer courses, or take a degree off the 5-wood on shorter courses than 6300 or so, and use the 5-wood shaft for both. I don’t usually find a situation where I need both the 3 and 5 wood on a course. I don’t play from 7000 yards it’s no fun. Edit: I mostly agree with @WUTiger on the gapping, although a lot of the newer even fixed hosel fairway woods are made better than what we had when we were playing the old Exotics XRails.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...