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Driver Shaft Recommendation Needed

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

I got a good deal on a TM RBZ a few weeks ago and have been playing with it since. I seem to hit it fairly well. I like the feel of it much better than the old Ping G2 that I have. The only problem is that it's an X flex, and I'm losing some distance on my drives. I want to look into a new shaft, but I'm not sure where to start. I have an appointment for a fitting later this week, but wanted to see if there were any suggestions out there. Here are my current driver stats:

 

TM RBZ 8*

Matriz Ozik XCon7 X Stiff Shaft

Average clubhead speed: 104 mph

Average ball speed: 150 mph

Launch angle: 13*

Ball spin rate: 3900 rpm

 

My initial thoughts when hitting on a launch monitor this evening was that it seems like I have a very high spin rate for such a low loft/launch angle. I think if I can get a shaft that brings that spin rate down, I can increase the loft to 9.5* to bring the launch angle up a bit without the spin getting out of control.

 

Any help would be much appreciated. 

post #2 of 11

There are many low spin premium shaft in the market but usually quite costly.  Also, should try shaft with low kick that will increase the lauch and sometimes no need to change the driver's loft.  For me, I found lock kick on a low spin, stiff shafts provides more feedback, but you should try out yourself.

post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyD3 View Post

There are many low spin premium shaft in the market but usually quite costly.  Also, should try shaft with low kick that will increase the lauch and sometimes no need to change the driver's loft.  For me, I found lock kick on a low spin, stiff shafts provides more feedback, but you should try out yourself.

 

Any specific suggestions?

post #4 of 11

More weight is probably worth a try if you already launch it high, as it might give you a little less hand action. You could also try to learn better technique; your numbers are pretty good aside from spin and you could probably gain 20 yards or more if you can get down to the high 2000s or so. You don't necessarily need to go with a particular flex as most heavier shafts will play tighter and a bit lower than light ones.

 

Your main enemy is your spin loft, which can be changed by fixing your equipment, but technique plays the biggest role in it. 3900 spin with an 8 degree head and 104 ss is a bit drastic. A better fitting shaft will help but you'll hit it even farther if you can get the spin loft lower with the same launch angle. Less spin loft should also get the ball speed a bit higher (a max of about 6mph and around ) without needing more swing speed. If you can drop 1000rpms and get your ball speed to 155ish, you can expect 20 yards of carry if you maintain the good launch angle. I'd say about when you get to 250 carry that's about as good as you can expect to get for fitting and you'd need really good numbers to achieve that consistently.

 

Static loft: The actual angle of the club, not necessarily what's stamped on the sole. There's also more loft high on the face and less lower because of bulge and roll, so hitting it high on the face can result in a higher than normal launch (but most drivers spin less there) and vice versa.

Dynamic loft: This takes into account the shaft lean towards or away from the target, so your 8 degree with 2 degrees of lean away from the target will present the same number on this stat as a neutral 10 degree head or a 12 degree delofted by 2 degrees. This is not exactly the same as the launch angle though.

Spin loft: This takes into account your angle of attack, and is the most important number for getting ball speed and spin maxed out. You want this to be low and you want to still be hitting up with the driver to increase launch. For a wedge or something to max out spin, or to get a controlled iron, you might want to hit down with a high lofted club to get more of a glancing blow, but with the driver you want

 

The problem most players have is that they try to launch it high and flip their hands to do so. This creates a good positive angle of attack, which is fantastic. But the problem is it adds enough dynamic loft from the forward shaft lean that your spin can be so high that you lose yardage. You want something in the neighborhood of 10 unless you're a long driver or really short.

 

 

 

As for shaft recommendations, the AXE series is supposed to be really good and stable for under 50$. You can also look at something in the project x line for a bit more coin or check ebay for cheap deals. Personally I think my fubuki alpha does an admirable job considering it's an S flex and I'm 15mph faster than it's intended to be swung. But that's like a 300 dollar shaft like so many of them.

post #5 of 11
Well, if you could find a Mamiya/UST Proforce that would work for you, it would be the perfect colors, LOL. I am an MSU alum, but get a lot of static from my Ole Miss buddies over my "LSU" shaft.
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuck View Post

Well, if you could find a Mamiya/UST Proforce that would work for you, it would be the perfect colors, LOL. I am an MSU alum, but get a lot of static from my Ole Miss buddies over my "LSU" shaft.

 

Good point, hadn't thought of that.

post #7 of 11

What Lucius said.

 

Don't know if I'm adding but a new shaft will only do so much, i.e. it's not going to correct other issues.

 

Don't know what ball you are using, but check your golf ball, too. Again, lower spin can only lower a bit.

 

As someone said, loft (dynamic) is the biggest effect, shaft and ball tweak. But yes, you've got to have the right flex.

 

Are you attempting to swing out of your shoes with that shaft to make it work? That will give you weird numbers. Jump on an LM with an RBZ in stiff flex and same ball, and loft, and see what happens. Also, watch torque - tight torque will have some guys swinging out of their shoes in an effort to loosen it up. Sometimes, mid torque works well even for higher speed guys - because they're not swinging out of their shoes - and they find less spin, more accuracy, more distance.

post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Desmond View Post

Are you attempting to swing out of your shoes with that shaft to make it work? 

 

 

I hit on a LM last night, and I can push my clubhead speed up to around 110, but it's an overswing. 102-103 is my average.

post #9 of 11

Dude that spin rate is crazy for that low of a loft! I'm wondering what it actually looks like on the course. Does it clearly rise up in the air above the initial course of trajectory and fall pretty much straight down? 

 

The shaft on your driver should not spin the ball that much, so I'm wondering if that was a bad reading or swing. If you really do struggle with ballooning on the course, you could try going to a two-piece ball to get that spin down. Otherwise you will be stuck either buying a heavier, stiffer shaft or spending big $$ on a lighter, stiffer shaft. And to be honest, the distance difference between 3900 and 2700 spin in your swing speed range is about 10 yards of carry, so it might not be worth it. 

post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meddle View Post
And to be honest, the distance difference between 3900 and 2700 spin in your swing speed range is about 10 yards of carry, so it might not be worth it. 

It's about 10 yards of carry but a fair bit more roll on top of that, especially on flat holes, the chance to tighten up dispersion with a well fitted shaft, maybe some club and ball speed boosts, and 10000x better wind performance. Not to mention getting your alma mater's colors I guess. If you go for a lower priced option, of which there are many in the 105 ss range, you can get much better numbers for under 100$. If you're in the 120+ range you're SOL unless you spend money or really look around.

 

He's a 4 handicap, so it could be a big difference if he's leaving even 10+ yards on the table with his driver. Not like he's a 30 capper who can't hit his irons and wants to drive 300+.

post #11 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuciusWooding View Post

It's about 10 yards of carry but a fair bit more roll on top of that, especially on flat holes, the chance to tighten up dispersion with a well fitted shaft, maybe some club and ball speed boosts, and 10000x better wind performance. Not to mention getting your alma mater's colors I guess. If you go for a lower priced option, of which there are many in the 105 ss range, you can get much better numbers for under 100$. If you're in the 120+ range you're SOL unless you spend money or really look around.

 

He's a 4 handicap, so it could be a big difference if he's leaving even 10+ yards on the table with his driver. Not like he's a 30 capper who can't hit his irons and wants to drive 300+.

This is all true, but I wonder if for under $100 he can do much better than the stock XCon he has in his driver already. Only one way to find out I guess. 

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