Do I need a mid bounce wedges?

I am trying to understand why my new Cleveland 588 2.0 58 degree low bounce, 6 degrees, wedge is soo much better than my OLD Mizuno Pro II wedges (SW 11 bounce LW 9 bounce) ? The pro II are year 2000 but have not been used much so the grooves are still good. Im a sweeper and my course is  very firm, but the fairways are in bad shape so I'm teeing up. I assume that if I tee up the bounce cannot matter? So now I am unsure if f I need a medium bounce wedge to add to the new low bounce Cleveland.

I'm a sweeper with little  wrist brake and a shallow angle of attack on firm courses, so is bounce just a hindrance to me?? (the bunkers are also firm ) So the only time i'd need mid bounce is on a softer course or in bunkers with soft sand? Is there some practical experiment I can do to find out the answer?

The softer the sand the higher the bounce is my rule, I have 1 lw & 2 sw's, high bounce 14* for summer on soft fluffy sand, and 6* and 8* for winter, or compact sand! It works for me but I just have to remember to put the correct ones in the bag as I don't have room for all!

This article seems very good to me and answers all my questions. The article states that a sweeper playing in firm conditions does not need a mid bounce wedge

http://www.my golfspy.com/wedge-fitting/#comment-142388

okay lets call the conditions I play in rock hard, Im in Africa! Its impossible for a sweeper like me to dig in to the ground. So why do I need a lot of bounce bounce? Whats your take on the purpose of bounce for someone with a shallow angle of attack?

I have tried soft sand in bunkers and I can manage with a low bounce SW

The new Cleveland low bounce wedge seems so much better to me than my old medium bounce wedges

I agree about fitting iacas, I'd love to do that. But in Kenya no business offers that. So Maybe the only thing I can go is order a mid bounce 58 wedge and a high bounce wedge and try them out.

The thing  is this low bounce Cleveland 588 2.0 wedge is soon much better than my old mid bounce Mizuno wedges. Now why is that?? Is that the

a) the bounce

b) the aggressive grinds?

Can it be either of those two? or some other reason???

I am no expert. But I can say I have owned numerous wedges with all kinds of bounce and I have played in numerous courses. I'm a sweeper and about 10 degrees of bounce (not too low, not too high) seem to work best for me in most situations and conditions.

The cleveland 2.0 has various factory grinds. All could be considered standard. Which of these does the OP have? I have a set beside me.

I have the 58 degree 1 dot with 6 degrees of bounce. Looking at the wedge I'd say it has more bounce than that, but I don't have a proper measuring device. Is that an effective bounce figure?. Here is the specification from the Cleveland web site:

http://www.clevelandgolf.com/US_new-588-rtx-2_0-black-satin-wedge__588rtx_2_bsw__viewProd_wedges.html

58°

6°

35.125"

D6

LOW BOUNCE GRIND (1 DOT) •

The Low Bounce Grind provides the lowest effective bounce, allowing players to be aggressive from anywhere around the green. The combination of a trailing edge grind and maximum relief from the heel and toe lets the player be creative from even the tightest of lies. Low Bounce Grind is ideal for firm conditions and/or players with a more shallow attack angle. 1 DOT (LOW BOUNCE) KEY FEATURES • Trailing Edge Grind + maximum heel and toe grind • Lowest effective bounce • Keeps leading edge close to ground for aggressive lob shots, yet provides stability on square-faced full shots.

I believe you have the spoon grind? Reduced toe, heel, rear? If so its the exact opposit of mine, a 58 degree 2 dot regular flat sole. Yes your effective bounce could have been made low by removing the rear flange by grinding. Remember a knife blade edge is 6-7 degrees so it should swing easy if you divot. The center of the vertical shaft line is where you measure from, so its also where the club sits, but they removed some metal and it sits lower than the angle indicates from that point.. The lip still has the original angle like the tip of water skis to not dig or to play it back in the stance. The heel is gone to keep the lip low if you open it or have a severe sidehill downhill lie. The toe is gone for the same reason on the other side. Its actually too much club for me. It does so much in the hands of a real skilled player though its unreal. I need a simple wedge. The purpose of the club is to stop the ball on the green from up close or from behind a obstacle. A 58 can have some roll out for some people. Your practical experiment could be stopping the ball from behind your bag were it on the ground.

I am working very hard on my wedge play cause it is so ERATIC, mostly my technique. As a boy I was a good short chipper (just around to the green) but very average at pitching (20 yards out)

So maybe I really need to try a mid bounce 58 as well and compare the two??? I'm thinking that is the only way to be sure.

I would play the club you have until you are so familiar with it you can say what shots you wish you had with it. If you need a new tool for your game at that time, then sure get one that has the characteristics you like.