Why do iron loft gaps change?

Just wondering why the loft gap between iron lofts changes? For example, my set of MP-58s have 3* of loft between each of the longer irons (3-4-5) and the shorter irons (5-6-7-8-9-p) have 4* of loft between each iron.

Why do manufacturers do this?

Why does the loft gap change between the 5 and 6 irons for some sets and between the 6 and 7 on others?

Would it be a bad idea to have them all with 4* gaps (3-P)? I feel my distance gaps start to get too close between the 4 and 5 iron, so i think I could use an extra degree of loft difference. (don't game the 3)

Why they gap them 3* then 4* is based on getting the most performance out of the club.  The 3* at the top creates better gapping throughout the set.  Some companies are even adding length in order to increase the ball speed for better gapping.

Where each company makes the change is based on R&D.;  Each club head will have a different center of gravity, therefore launch and spin differently.  Also it is dependent on the type of club.  A more forgiving set or game improvement would be likely to have 3* gapping deeper into the set to help a higher handicap player play better golf.

A lot of "better" players will request 4* gapping on their sets.  If you research some older club specs you will find that 4* was the norm for quite some time.

Thanks for the response.

Why does a gap of 3* create better gaps at the top?

Why do some "better" players request 4* loft gaps all the way through?

Stock shaft length can vary between clubs too, longer length between clubs in long irons going to .5" between around the 7 iron. That is usually where the sets start going from 3* to 4 or 5*. Wedges are often .25" between.

@WUTiger will have a better answer.

Current loft gapping has little to do with performance. The short iron lofts are so jacked up that the longer irons need to be more closely gapped for the 3 iron to have enough loft to be hittable for the average golfer. That way they can still try to sell you a set of 8 irons.

Rob and Savvy have captured what the problem is.

A couple of years ago, I suggested that players keep the uniform gaps at the long end by:

• maintaining 4* loft differences;
• dropping either the 4i or 5i out of their set; and
• going to .75" shaft length difference in the longer clubs  you keep.

For the average reasonably dedicated golfer, the consistent yardage gaps would be of more valuable from 150 yards on end than in the longer clubs.

For 3i, 4i and 5i, club designer Tom Wishon suggests that 5* loft differences would benefit the average golfer more than 3* gaps. The 5* loft gaps would help the average golfer get the ball up better and keep more consistent yardage gaps at the long end.

Below, Wishon gives details on what's at play:

Big reason most guys I know don't have irons longer than 5, because it's really a 3.5 iron. In my iron set the 3 is 19 degrees. I don't have a use for it.

Thanks for info guys!

I have been doing a lot of research myself since I started this thread and I have found Tom Wishons thought to make the most sense to me.

I'm thinking that 4* gaps between all my irons would help my distance gap problem. So it would a 4i at 24* with a PW at 48*. I think that should help my gaps.

I know most would suggest swapping my 4i for a 4hybrid but i feel much better with an iron. After the 24* 4i I will go to my 20*hybrid then my 3 wood.

I believe most golfers would do better following Wishon methodologies. May I suggest as you become advanced in your fitting knowledge I would encourage learning about additional measurements that can contribute to your iron gapping. For example, on paper based on just swing speed and spin rates I could justify hitting a 15 deg lofted 3 wood. However, due to my AOA, early-mid release,  a 17 deg loft with + 1/2" length but flat lie angle is my best long wood for hitting off the deck consistently. I mention this because many times we golfers set ourselves with loft gapping for irons but neglect the fairwood/hybrids, etc. I agree with one poster regarding the "jacked up lofts" in shorter irons yielding closer spacing on long irons. In my case, there was more to just properly gapping my irons, it literally was the whole bag of clubs. Just wanted to share this.

Totally agree and thanks for ideas. I think Wishon has some very good ideas about setting up your equipment so it works well for you and your ability level even if it means you won't be reaching par 5s in two.

My next objective is to try and figure out my hybrids/woods like you said. Currently I was thinking of carrying a 20.5* 910h and a 16.5* 910f thinking that those would give me some pretty good gaps. However I will have to wait to check my gaps with my new iron lofts.

My other option would be to carry a 21* 7 wood and an 18* or 17* 4/5 wood.

I don't really enjoy hitting hybrids or woods that much and I can't really tell which I hit better since I rarely pull them out of the bag to hit.

I assume also that shafts must make a difference. I'd generally say my gaps on irons are around 10 yards from GW to 5 iron. This is with generally 4° gaps. There is then a 3° gap from 42 gw to a Tom Watson gw which gives a 15 yard gap (115 to 100 yard) and further 15 yard gaps between 56° sw (85 yards) and 60° lw (70 yards) - both Adams Tom Watson. I was told the wedges have a "wedge" flex shaft (whatever that means). So my irons are 10 yard gaps to 15 in the wedges for a 4° difference.

We had a thread on wedge shafting earlier this week:

http://thesandtrap.com/t/79217/do-wedge-shaft-flex-really-matter

I never could figure out why OEM's would make a 4 iron and stamp the number 5 on it. Can someone explain this trend to me? I mean if it's got the loft of a 4 iron then stamp a number 4 on it for fock sake. Don't stamp a 5 and claim it has more distance then the competitor.....the again every company does it so.....

You said it they can't sell you more 10 more yards with a shorter more lofted club.

Dr Hook,

You were born 40 years too late. Club designer Tom Wishon mentioned your topic in his blog item on club mix (which 14 for your bag) and the why a 4H flies better than comparable 4i.

Wishon said that back in the 1970s, most OEM had pretty close to the same lofts on their irons and wedges. Then, the arms race in distance arrived. I have checked in the archives section of Ralph Maltby's Clubfitting and Repair book, and this is pretty much true.

Wishon said his fitters use the "24-38" rule in fitting irons: The average golfer has trouble hitting an iron that is lower than 24* loft, and longer than 38" (current standard for many 5 irons).

Exactly. Well stated ^^^^^^

Cause most people don't know that they are essentially hitting a 4 iron. They just know that they hit the demo 6 iron 10 yards longer than their old one so they buy a set.

A few decades back when perimeter weighted club head designs began to take hold (I.E Callaway Big Betha, King Cobras, etc) those club designers knew that while they increased the off-center strike performance that a side effect was very high launch angles/ball flight. Due to these higher launch designs the designers figured out that their new 4 iron for example actually flew as far or further than current/traditional 3 iron lofted irons. Thus the race began when one company marketed its new "stronger lofted" irons vs a company still using traditional lofted irons. These companies did not tell why their clubs were longer just that they were and golfers tested and confirmed. One example I remember is a King Cobra 5 iron flying as far as some companies 3-4 irons, etc. Was it apples to apples? No. But the marketing gurus convinced a generation to switch and either a company adapted or it lost sales. To further complicate things there is/was no official standard lofts for golf club irons as each company designs to its desire. Across the times there has been "generational" accepted lofts but not a locked down standard. For me, I learned that I needed to get fit and learn what launch rates, AOA, etc meant and that helped me figure my "personalized" standards for my irons based on my abilities. IF I demo a iron set today I know that the seven iron I am testing may be equal to my 6 iron or my 8 iron based on its specs and that helps more accurately compare/contrast brands of irons to what I play.