Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 2448 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

I started swinging at the driving range when I was in Jr High. Played here and there in my 20s/30s. Now, almost 44 years old, I’m seriously getting into golf as my father-in-law added me to his golf club membership. Last month I played for the first time in 10 years.

I’ve always had hand-me-down clubs. At 6’4” those clubs have always been too short for me. It’s time to buy my own clubs - the proper length. However, I don’t have a ton of money to spend - so the latest Taylor Mades aren’t in my near future. 

Can anyone recommend a good brand (even clone brands)? I’ve come across things like Pinemeadow Golf and SV3, where I could get a set for under $500. Are those any good? 

I’d like to save up for a better quality club, but I fear the more I play with these short clubs the more my form will suffer. 


Posted

There is no shortage of good quality used golf equipment.  Golf clubs do not hold their value any better than new cars do...worse actually.  If you were to look up "Best new clubs 2016" then search on-line for said clubs...I believe you will discover that 500 bucks is more than enough.

Or you could go the component route.  The last set of irons I purchased (from Maltby Golfworks)  cost me about 300 bucks...assembled to my specs.  Since you want clubs somewhat longer than usual; it may make more sense to order them that way rather than extend the shafts of an existing set.  Not that shaft extensions are expensive or difficult to do; but it may not be worth it if you have to buy a vice, pipe cutter, epoxy, new grips, etc...for a one time project.

P.S.  Two brands that always come up in discussions like this one are Adams and Tour Edge.  Both are excellent and both, used, can be had for very little money.

  • Like 2
  • Thumbs Up 1

In der bag:
Cleveland Hi-Bore driver, Maltby 5 wood, Maltby hybrid, Maltby irons and wedges (23 to 50) Vokey 59/07, Cleveland Niblick (LH-42), and a Maltby mallet putter.                                                                                                                                                 "When the going gets tough...it's tough to get going."

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 2448 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
    • Wordle 1,789 4/6* ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ 🟨🟩⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.