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Posted
each shaft should cost you around $30-30. you can buy sets for $250 or so. Also, keep in mind that 6.0 doesn't mean stiff... it's a softer stiff. 6.5 is a strong stiff, and 7.0 is x-stiff. You can always make a shaft stiffer, but not softer... so if you're going to err, err on the soft side, and you're local club maker can "tip" the shafts to make them stiffer (but this changes some characteristics of the shafts also, as the ProjX's are a "butt-trim" only shaft). what is your reasoning for purchasing ProjX's? they are a lower ball flight than the S300's with a much heavier weight, typically.

The project x is actually about 10 grams lighter and most clubfitters would generally agree that the 6.5 plays closest to an x-stiff flex. And the ballflight is going to be a slightly higher launch with lower spin, which may or may not mean a lower ballflight in each individual case.

Monster Tour 10.5* w/ Redboard 63
FP400f 14.5* w/ GD YSQ
Idea Pro 18* w/ VS Proto 80s
MP FLi-Hi 21 w/ S300
CG1 BP w/ PX 6.0 SM 54.11 SM 60.08 Sophia 33"


Posted
The project x is actually about 10 grams lighter and most clubfitters would generally agree that the 6.5 plays closest to an x-stiff flex. And the ballflight is going to be a slightly higher launch with lower spin, which may or may not mean a lower ballflight in each individual case.

Again a website differs from what people say. I'm not sure which is true. Also what is the difference between the Poject X flighted and the Project X?

FLEX: Extra Stiff/Strong, Stiff/Firm MODEL: Project X PLAYER 1: All, Men PURE: No SHAFT TRAJECTORY: Low SHAFT WEIGHT: 110 to 120 Grams, 121 Grams and Over SWING SPEED: 70 to 89 MPH, 90 to 109 MPH TIP DIAMETER: .370 Inches TORQUE: 3.5 °s and Under SHAFT TYPE: Steel Shaft taken from golf smith.

Posted
Like I said earlier, if you decide to "tip" the shafts, yes, you can make them a bit stiffer. However, beware that you could potentially change the characteristics of the shaft slightly. In your case, you could probably get the 6.0s and if they aren't quite stiff enough, you can tip them 1/4", but no more than that. Doing it that way, you won't have to just buy new shafts. If I were to take a set of clubs and tip them, it would be about $10-15 a club (also factor in you'd have to extend the clubs as well).

Just a question here--why not just step the shaft? Its been my experience that this is much easier and more predictable than tipping.


Posted
Again a website differs from what people say. I'm not sure which is true. Also what is the difference between the Poject X flighted and the Project X?

If you go to a site like Golf WRX or the Titleist Performance institute that have a lot of guys who really know their stuff (no offense to the posters here at the Sand Trap

), the consensus seems to be that 5.5 is closest to stiff and 6.5 the best equivalent of x-stiff. As far as flighted vs. non-flighted, the Project X flighted has an exaggerated change in kick point from short to long irons. The lower bend point in the long irons helps to increase launch and spin while the higher kick point in the short irons allows for a more penetrating and controllable trajectory.

Monster Tour 10.5* w/ Redboard 63
FP400f 14.5* w/ GD YSQ
Idea Pro 18* w/ VS Proto 80s
MP FLi-Hi 21 w/ S300
CG1 BP w/ PX 6.0 SM 54.11 SM 60.08 Sophia 33"


Note: This thread is 6183 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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