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Posted
I just contracted a bad case of the hooks -- only with my irons -- and I can't seem to get rid of it. My typical shot pattern has been dead straight (well, more or less) or a baby fade, but my teaching pro told me I wasn't releasing completely through impact and it was costing me a lot of distance. I already hit my 7-iron around 150-160 consistently, so I wasn't really focused on gaining more distance, but he kept saying learning to release properly through impact was the key to "effortless power." Sounds good, right? Effortless power -- no huffing, no violent move toward the ball, no powerful effort that tires you after 18 holes, just a little Freddy Couples move and away she goes.

So, taking his advice, I started actively flipping my wrists at impact, basically attempting to swing so that my left wrist points at the ground and palm to sky right at the moment of impact. My pro's theory was that, try as you may, the moment of impact happens so quickly that you will never actually get your wrist horizontal, but trying to will ensure that the clubface closes through impact, will eliminate all slicing, and will promote a draw (+ distance). The technique works great with my driver and woods, but my irons now go about 10-15 yards left of where I planned to hit them. They go farther, an extra 15-20 yards easy, and trust me, I'm not swinging out of my shoes, but to get the ball where I want to be with my irons I now have to aim a good 10 yards right, which seems a bit retarded to me. Any thoughts?

And yes, I did check my grip and it was a bit strong (not horribly) so I weakened it a tad. It cures the problem 1/3 to 1/2 the time, but really good impact still sends the ball far and left. Should I just aim a bit right and deal with it or is there some other trick to use (i.e., technique)?

In my C-130 Cart Bag:

Driver: Titleist D2 10.5° Aldila R.I.P. 60
Woods Exotics CB4 15° Aldila R.I.P. 70
Hybrids Exotics CB4 17°, 22° Aldila R.I.P. 80 

Irons 4-PW MP-57 Project X 6.0, MP-29 PW

Wedges  Eidolon 52°, 60° Rifle Spinner 6.5

Putter Bettinardi BB12

Ball One Black

Rangefinder Nikon Laser 500"Golf...


Posted
Just reevaluate your swing plane with your irons. Compare it to your driver and I bet it will be more horizontal then your iron shots.

Getting too flat will make it hook a little bit.

Driver - Taylor Made 09 Burner.
3 Wood - Callaway Diablo.
Hybrid Irons - Adams A30S
Wedges - 52* Titleist Vokey Spin Milled. 56*, 60* Taylormade Rac.
Putter - Scotty Cameron Circa 62 #1.


Posted
well, I'd stay away from trying to draw those scoring irons then. Fades tend to stick better so just keep going with that.

But, if you're hooking it consistently, maybe you shouldn't be flipping your wrists so much. Once you know what a release feels like, you shouldn't need to actively turn your wrists over. From what you said about your hand position at impact, overturning those wrists seems to be the problem. At impact, you want your left wrist pointed towards your target and your right palm, facing the target. Remember, you're hitting to a point.

However, keep that shot in the bag. A controlled big hook can help you out plenty in the future. It just shouldn't be your normal shot.

Oh, that extra power is not only caused by the release, but the delofting of the club due to you closing the face more. If you're turning as hard as your hand description says, your club loft at impact is probably a good reason you're getting so much more distance.
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Posted
As a recently converted hooker, I feel your pain. I had a hook shot my whole life until I totally changed my swing a few months back. I could list the 40 different things that contribute to it but I'm sure that's not what you are looking for.

I use to hit the ball very far with that draw/hook. At the end of the day the loss of accuracy just isn't worth it. It's basically your arms/hands in front of your body. Go back to your little fade, it will serve you much better.

My Grandfather use to say "you can talk to a slice but a hook won't listen."

x18 S-4
Lob wedge
Hybore 3 wood
R7 Driver
Shark Head putter (love that old thing)


Posted

Here is great video from Mark Crossfield that describes hitting the ball straight, slicing or hooking the ball with the use of trackman, this video might help you better understand what makes the ball hook and might help you better control your ball flight.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
First off, all due respect to your Pro, I would not recommend flipping anything unless you want to hook it..as mentioned in the prior post, you will shut the clubface and pull hook your shots...yes, you gain distance as a result of de-lofting but at what price? Control

Another reason why it may be just your irons is that the shafts in your irons may not match your woods, (frequency).. as a result of the flip your wood shafts, which may not be as stiff as your irons, (6.0 rifles are pretty tight)
may lag behind a bit and still allow the clubface to be a bit more square at impact.

I would go back to your fade and hit an extra club or if you are comfortable with the new move find harmony with the shafts in your woods. That may mean going to a 5.0 or 5.5 in your irons

To Long Straight Drives
Rick Pogany

In the Bag
Blue Hawk XT30 8.5 Firm 47"Proto-type 5 wood Blue Hawk ShaftProto-type 7 wood Blue Hawk ShaftPing I3 Blades 4-LWRife Hybrid Mallet 34"ProV1


Posted
[QUOTE=imtomtomim;282332]well, I'd stay away from trying to draw those scoring irons then. Fades tend to stick better so just keep going with that.

Really well said, hooked iron shot make decent numbers impossible. They just too hot and run into trouble or far away.

Note: This thread is 6080 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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