Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6033 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Im having real trouble shaping the ball at the moment, I can get the ball flight (draw/fade) but the ball doesnt land where my club face is aiming, it seems to start on the line of my club and curl from there.

Could this be because the club is not swing along the line om my feet in the backswing, as it does feel like im making the sam backswing as in I would in a normal swing just with the club face more open of closed

cheers Ben

Posted
If the ball is starting on the line of your FEET then you will just have to adjust how much you open or close the face to get more or less draw or fade. If not you are probably right that you aren't swinging down the line of you feet and me be slightly coming over the top. When you are hittinig draws then you really need to stay relaxed and let your hands turn over naturally because any tension will keep the clubface more square and result in only a slight draw or a straight ball. Since you are presetting the clubface open or closed it should at least be in that position at impact unless you are manipulating the club with your hands. When I'm warming up I try to hit both extremes. Try and hit a big hook and then hit a big fade. Then I go through my routine:

Draw/ or Fade
1. Line my Feet to where I want the ball to start
2. Align the face of the club to where I want the ball to end up
3. Take my grip and do not adjust it once I'm set
4. Act as if I am trying to hit a straight ball (slightly inside to out path) to a target parallel to the line of my FEET, and trust the shot

I garauntee this works because I taught my friend how to hit a "intentional" draw and fade in five swings apiece and he's a 2 handicap. He had no idea it was that easy.

Posted
Draw/ or Fade

Does the type of ball matter?

Or does it work for any?

Hit'em Long and Strong
Big Tazz

 


Posted
Doesn't matter really that much. I get plenty of action out of ordinary Top Flite range balls but sure your shot shape will be more magnified with a tour ball. As long as the ball has dimples on it you can get it to draw or fade for sure.

Posted
ive started to swing along the line of my legs and the shots are under controll much better, but they still fly to the right of where my club face is pointing (draw) i was just wondering how much u angle your feet away from the target line as i think this could be the problem

Posted
I've had more problems with sometimes tending to push my fades and pulling my draws. So lately I've ended up setting up for straight shots instead of trying to fade or draw. Wish I had a dependable fade since lately the greens have been super hard.

« Keith »


Posted
ive started to swing along the line of my legs and the shots are under controll much better, but they still fly to the right of where my club face is pointing (draw) i was just wondering how much u angle your feet away from the target line as i think this could be the problem

Okay now think about what has to be happening to the club face for you to be attempting to hit a draw and hitting it right. Either the clubface is being left open or you are regripping the club or manipulating it and the clubface isn't turning over as it should at impact. Once you set your clubhead open or closed, take your normal grip and don't change it. Try not to look at the clubhead either or you'll likely start manipulating the shot because it looks odd at set up to have the face open or closed that much. Opening up you stance more or less really has no bearing on the amount of draw/ fade because it is your starting point. The clubface is the major factor in the amount of draw and to get the action you want. On the course most of the time only about 5-8 yards of draw is necessary but to make sure you are doing it right to get about 10-15 yards of draw the clubhead looks extremely hooded but if you swing naturally slightly inside out you will hit a draw. If you release the club fully it will be a high draw. Keep us posted on your progress.


Note: This thread is 6033 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 22 - 2026-01-11 More mirror work. Back outdoors tomorrow.
    • Day 11, 1/11/26.  Today was putting, along about 6' of carpet, with coins on the ground to keep me cognizant of what I'm doing.  I think this is the at-home drill from LSW. (Ugh, missed two of the last four days -- 1/10 and 1/8)
    • Day 9: 2026.01.11 Hit some balls at the range, concentrating on weight distribution at address, got some on film.
    • Day 468 - 2026-01-11 Loooooong day. Did some work in the patio door (as a mirror) when I got home.
    • I caught a video on this driver; the face tech seems crazy. Looking at the heat map for ball speed, hitting it basically anywhere on the face only loses a few percent ball speed. The surprising and counter intuitive part to me was that for flat faced clubs, ball speed loss is directly proportional to distance loss. For clubs with bulge and roll this is apparently not true. The surprising part of that story being that the max distance potential looks to be a tiny pee sized area for this driver, and I feel in general for drivers. The counter intuitive part being (the myth?) that blade irons have a pee sized sweet spot and missing that tiny spot causes dramatic losses. And that modern drivers, maybe 2017 on, have massive sweet spots and are ultra forgiving. Where in reality, if this heat map data is valid and reliable, it might be a bit of the opposite. This insane tech driver appears to have a pea sized "sweet spot" while Mizuno Pro 241 irons are 28% more forgiving compared to the average of all clubs measured. Not compared to other players irons, compared to all clubs from all categories, players to SGI! The Pro 241 being essentially just a solid chunk of metal with no "tech" at all. Which for me devolves into a whole mess of what is forgiveness really? And in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.