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Posted
Thanks Patriot, made a lot of sense there. But producing a draw or fade is basically an alignment thing. Fade, aim left but aim club head at target, draw-aim right aim clubhead at target, both instances swing along body line.

How does a blade help that over a G.I.?

I think I'll be sticking with G.I. for a while, but this has got me really interested.

Jim

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer


Posted
It kind of has to do with weight distribution. If the weight is concentrated you get more of the force transfered directly to the ball, giving them a little bit more distance. In a CB iron the weight is more spread out and also lower, transferring less force directly to the ball, also the lower and deeper weight makes the ball fly at a higher tragectory.

FTi 10* Draw w/ ProLaunch Blue 65g Stiff
5 Wood
Walter Hagen Ultradyne Blades 3-PW
52*
X-Tour Vintage 56.13 X-Forged Chrome 64.09 Dual Force BladeBall: B330Rx or Pro V1


Posted
Thanks Patriot, made a lot of sense there. But producing a draw or fade is basically an alignment thing. Fade, aim left but aim club head at target, draw-aim right aim clubhead at target, both instances swing along body line.

Good choice to stick with G.I. clubs for a while. With blades, along with the ability to hit draws and fades easier, comes the ability to slice and hook just as easily when your swing is only slightly off. I agree with Patriot, unless you play to scratch, most people will score better with a some type of cavity back. Just ask Kenny Perry or Rocco Mediate.

:tmade: 09 Burner
:cobra: Speed LD F 3 wood
:cobra: Baffler 20 degree hybrid
:cobra: Baffler TWS 23 hy
:ping: G15 5-UW
:snake_eyes: 56 deg SW 
:snake_eyes: 60 - 12 wedge  
:scotty_cameron: Studio Select Newport 2


Posted
Thanks Patriot, made a lot of sense there. But producing a draw or fade is basically an alignment thing. Fade, aim left but aim club head at target, draw-aim right aim clubhead at target, both instances swing along body line.

Good choice on staying with the GI clubs. Now get out there and practice your chipping and putting and bring that HC down.


Posted
I went from a GI iron to a players cavity. The biggest difference I see and notice is when you don't hit the sweet spot it doesn't go anywhere. I made the change for feedback and I agree that I learned how to hit it a little towards the toe with good results. That same move is really bad with my current irons. My GHIN number went from a 8 to an 11. It isn't all my irons, but it has really showed me how messed up my swing was.

I would recommend keeping the GI iron for a bit.

Brian


Posted
What separates a blade so far from a GI iron, that all the low handicappers play them?

Game Improvement irons have much more offset, helping to keep the hands in front of the ball and closing the clubface (making it harder to hit a slice). Also, they have much more weight at the bottom of club club, which makes it easier to get the ball airborn (which makes it harder to hit low). GI irons have more perimeter weighting, making the sweetspot much larger but not as "hot".

Blades will hit the ball where you tell them to, whether you like it or not. You'll get more control (high/low/left/right), whether you like it or not. When you hit the sweetspot, you'll get a more piercing ballflight and more distance - but when you miss (which would be alot if you're an average ballstriker) you'll lose alot of distance and hit the ball offline. The best analogy I've heard for this subject (from someone here) is that hitting a GI iron is like driving a nail into wood with a frying pan. It's easy, everyone can do it, but there's a tradeoff in efficiency. Using a ball-peen hammer, on the otherhand, can drive that nail in in one swing but if you're not skilled enough you will crush your finger.
What's In My Stand Bag...
Driver: R9 TP 9.5*
3W: R9 15*
Hybrid: Rescue Dual TP 2H 16*
Irons 3-P: MP-62Wedges: Vokey 52* & 58*Putter: 34" Newport StudioBall: Pro V1x

Posted
For whatever it's worth, in regards to workability and feel.. You will Find that most accomplished players think it's much harder to strike the ball and keep it straight and most actually prefer to work the ball into their target with a more consistent trajectory whether their preference is a draw or fade. Rarely do they try to hit straight shots into targets.

Posted
Good choice on staying with the GI clubs. Now get out there and practice your chipping and putting and bring that HC down.

Ha, very well said!

So Ive been looking at the Mizuno MX-200. Seems like its up my alley, whatya guys think of that set of clubs? Jim

In my Ogio Blade Stand Bag:
 

TaylorMade Burner 10.5*

Adams Insight BUL 15*
Taylormade RBZ 3H

TaylorMade RBZ 4-AW

Vokey SM4 54-11

Cleveland CG14 58 2 dot wedge

Ping Karsten Series Craz-E putter

Top Flite Gamer


Posted
Why one would want to play Blades at a 26 handicap is beyond me. Save the money on the clubs and work on short game.

MX500 9.5* S
Burrows Golf MAC Powersphere 3W
IDEA PRO Irons
Perfect Club 21*
IDEA PRO 3HSakamoto 54* X-tour 60* Newport 2 Pro Platinum Custom


Posted
I think blades help magnify errors in the swing which can be a great tool, regardless of handicap.

Posted
Why one would want to play Blades at a 26 handicap is beyond me. Save the money on the clubs and work on short game.

One of the biggest problems high handicappers have is a lack of consistency stemming from a lack of focus. The size of blades and knowledge of the precision needed to hit them force you to bear down and focus on the task at hand, resulting in better shots.


Note: This thread is 6008 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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