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Posted
I've been in the market for new irons recently and have seen a recurring problem when demoing. I seem to be hitting the majority of shots thin.

It doesn't matter where I am hitting either - inside, outdoors, off a mat, grass. The only constant is that the irons are all forged. Am I trying to do too much? Nervous? Or, is my swing not as ready for forged as I thought? I've been playing a set of Titleist Clones for about 12 years. I really know these clubs and what I can and cannot do with them - mostly cannot, lol. I'm looking at forged for the feedback you get.

I recently demoed the new Titleist 710cb and when I did hit it square, wow, it was smooth, but the reality is that I only hit a few on the screws and most were pretty thin. I really wanted to like them too. Beautiful clubs. The pro I've been going to is lining up a set of AP2's for me to try. I know a few low cappers on here play them but I'm wondering if they might be too good for me.

I need a set I can "grow" with as my handicap comes down. The wife is not protesting new clubs, but a set now and another next year might be pushing it, lol.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Posted

I would say your trying to get as much out of them as possible to try and justify buying a new set.E.g I hit my old 7 iron 160,this one better go 170.
Probably a subconscious thing.

aeroburner tp 10.5 stiff
superfast tp 2.0 3 wood stiff
Halo 25 and taylormade tp 19 degree hybrids
miura cb 202 and wedge
tp 52* wedge, tp 56* taylormade spider mallet putter


Posted
Typically a thin shot means that you are using too much arms on your swing and not enough lower body. Usually happens when you try to swing 100% since your body instinctively tries to accomplish that by swinging your arms faster. Without getting into too much detail about swing mechanics, if you're hitting thin, it really has to do more with your swing and not so much the club.

Next time you demo try swinging at 80% and don't let the club follow thorugh completely. Stop the club half way on your follow through (you'll realize to do this, you can't swing 100% with your arms because it's impossible to stop at that point if you do). This will help you make more pure contact. You'd be suprised by how little the distance changes even though you think you're only swinging 80%, since the contact is more pure.

As for the actual clubs, if you're playing with a 12 handicap, you can probably get some players clubs. Try the Titleist AP2's and Mizuno MP-52's.

Posted
A swing never gets to a stage where it is 'ready for forged'. Forged is just a way in which metal is molded into the shape of a club head.
What I Play:
Wilson Mini Stand Bag | PING G10, 10.5°, Proforce V2 HL S | PING G5, 15°, 18°, Aldila NV 75 S | PING G5, 19°, Aldila VS Proto By You 80 S
Mizuno MX200 4-PW S | Ping Tour W 50/12 X | Ping Tour W 58/TS X | A selection of putters, all 35.5 inches.

Posted
A swing never gets to a stage where it is 'ready for forged'. Forged is just a way in which metal is molded into the shape of a club head.

Don't waste your breath (I mean typing fingers), Billy. If there's one thing I've learned on this site it's that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing - and the idea that forged=good and cast=bad is a classic example. To point out that forging and casting are simply different manufacturing processes (as if there's a competition between the two methods) will not get through.

It's the Hitler's dog analogy. Hitler had an Alsatian dog. Hitler was a Nazi. Alsation dogs are Nazis. Good players use forged clubs. Forged clubs are for good players (even though a lot play cast clubs) Therefore, bad players can't use them. The fact of the matter is that many forged clubs tend to be smaller head with little peripheral weighting and a smaller sweet spot. That's what makes those clubs harder to hit. As you have rightly pointed out, it is nothing to do with whether they are cast or forged.

In the race of life, always back self-interest. At least you know it's trying.

 

 


Posted
Get the AP2s, or Mizuno MP57's. You're a 12 handicap for god's sake, you SHOULD be able to hit these. Even if you couldn't now, you will learn to hit them.
Sometimes I regret not getting something more developed than the MX-950. I was eyeing the MP52s, I think I should've got them, specially how I turned out to not like fat soles.
My achievements:
Eagles: 0
Birdies: 18
Best Round: 89

Posted
My opinion don't buy a set you have to learn to hit because if you have to learn to hit them than you will probably struggle for a while. Just keep hitting a bunch different irons and you will know when you hit the right one. Don't think about forged or cast just find the best iron for you. Also I wouldn't worry about a set you can grow into because the better your swing gets the better you will hit the ball.
Driver: i15, 3 wood: G10, Hybrid: Nickent 4dx, Irons: Ping s57, Wedges: Mizuno MPT 52, 56, 60, Putter: XG #9 

Posted
Typically a thin shot means that you are using too much arms on your swing and not enough lower body. Usually happens when you try to swing 100% since your body instinctively tries to accomplish that by swinging your arms faster. Without getting into too much detail about swing mechanics, if you're hitting thin, it really has to do more with your swing and not so much the club.

I would agree with most of this. Typically when anyone tries out new clubs they really 'see what they can do'. So we swing as hard as we can and things go wrong. Try some 3/4 swings to get into a groove and see if you make better contact. Remember to keep your knees flexed so you can stay down on the ball.

Additionally, you might want to check the lengths of your current clubs vs. the demos. A difference of a 1/2" or even a 1/4" could be causing some of the problems. Your current set might have been built longer and you didn't realize it. If you're tall that is great, but if you have been adjusting to longer clubs, regular clubs will seem weird until you get used to them.

I will judge my rounds much more by the quality of my best shots than the acceptability of my worse ones.


Posted
Thanks for the replies. I probably was overswinging, even though I kept telling myself not to.

As for the length of the club, that is very possible. When I set up with my current clubs, the toe is off the ground. My pro had me hit off the board and said, due to my swing, no adjustment was needed. Since most of the demos are standard length, maybe these "Custom" made ones are a bit long. BTW I'm about 5' 8".

Thanks again for the help.

Posted
Don't waste your breath (I mean typing fingers), Billy. If there's one thing I've learned on this site it's that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing - and the idea that forged=good and cast=bad is a classic example. To point out that forging and casting are simply different manufacturing processes (as if there's a competition between the two methods) will not get through.

Fair enough. It's just an issue of wording then. Replace 'forged' with 'players iron', then it would be a legitimate question. By this I mean that the process by which they are molded have no bearing on how good a player you have to be to hit them. I can't tell if you are agreeing with me or not, though. Forged clubs can be cavity backs (MX200, ap2, cci forged), and players irons can also be cast.

What I Play:
Wilson Mini Stand Bag | PING G10, 10.5°, Proforce V2 HL S | PING G5, 15°, 18°, Aldila NV 75 S | PING G5, 19°, Aldila VS Proto By You 80 S
Mizuno MX200 4-PW S | Ping Tour W 50/12 X | Ping Tour W 58/TS X | A selection of putters, all 35.5 inches.

Posted
You're right, my wording could have been better. I understand the manufacturing process doesn't care how well you strike the ball.

I said forged because all of the irons I demoed were smaller head, smaller sweet spot, less offset, etc, and all forged. I have been looking forged mostly for the immediate feedback on where I hit the ball on the clubface. I played some R7's earlier this year. The ball went straight, but I couldn't tell you where I was on the clubface, therefore, whether I had a good swing or not, which is just as important to me as a good shot.

With these demos, I struck the ball most of the time, unfortunately, off center. Off center with forged equates to stinger hands, hence the, "Am I good enough" line. My hands hurt after hitting the Hogans.

Posted
Fair enough. It's just an issue of wording then. Replace 'forged' with 'players iron', then it would be a legitimate question. By this I mean that the process by which they are molded have no bearing on how good a player you have to be to hit them. I can't tell if you are agreeing with me or not, though. Forged clubs can be cavity backs (MX200, ap2, cci forged), and players irons can also be cast.

I was agreeing with you 100%.

In the race of life, always back self-interest. At least you know it's trying.

 

 


Posted
To OP...

Too bad you (and I) weren't looking for new irons two years ago. Back before the Recession hit full stride, you could rent a set of clubs with your ideal "shaft and head" recipe from certain manufacturers (such as Callaway) for $50 to $75. When they arrived, you could take them to the range, and play a couple of rounds with them, test them under real conditions.

This is far superior to hitting taped-face 6- and 9-irons into an indoor net under flourescent lighting.

Then, if you bought a set, the demo fee counted against total cost. Sorry, but the club makers cut this out about a year ago.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Note: This thread is 5885 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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