Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5851 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

The more I read the more I feel like I made a poor decision going with "clone" type clubs. Brand name is not a big deal to me, but I am wondering if it will hamper my play as I progress over the next few years.

Pinemeadow has a good reputation and had A+ customer care / service. The clubs feel good to me, but as a guy pretty new to golf, would I be better off with used clubs from Ping, TM, Titleist, etc? So far I would say no, but as stated, I am pretty new. If so what recommendations do you all have as far as cheap iron sets?

Sorry if I am creating a lot of threads. I do search and try to find a lot out before I post. As always, thanks everyone.


Posted
It would be in your best interest to go to a golf shop to get dynamically fitted.

But there is also the consideration regarding what kind of resources (money) you have at your disposal.

If I were you… I would pick up some “top of the line” used clubs (commensurate with your swing specs) and go from there.

"Every man is his own hell" - H.L. Mencken


Posted
It would be in your best interest to go to a golf shop to get dynamically fitted.

When it is all said and done, how much does something like that cost? I am a senior in college so money is a little on the tight side and I want to be able to play if I spend some money on changing clubs haha.

I am more or less wanting something to grow with. I feel like what I have is good for that, but as I said before, I have read a lot that suggests it would be better to go with name brand used clubs.

Posted
I played with no name clubs for years (had a set of Knight Virage clubs that I bought from Wal-Mart for $200) and while there is a difference in feel and performance from those to the Titleists and Mizunos Ive been playing since then, Im not so sure thats really all that important for a new golfer.
However, if you are to the point where you are getting serious about your game, then you owe it to yourself to buy a quality set of namebrand clubs. Some clones are very nice clubs, but IMO they dont have the quality and feel of a good set of namebrand clubs.
You can often get used clubs pretty cheap on Ebay (thats where I buy most of my clubs), you just need to make sure that you buy from a reputable seller.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted
Personally, I think you are OK for now. Having a daughter with less than a year to go at schooll, I am willing to bet that your life will be getting a bit busy real soon. Studying, graduation and landing a job will most likely take precedent. If you are striking the ball fairly well with what you have, you might want to wait until your swing has settled down before getting fitted and putting out the big bucks.

Eclipse Stand Bag
Big Bertha 2007 460 11°
Big Bertha 2007 3w 16°
Big Bertha 2007 7w 22°
C9 475 2h 18° Insight XTD 5i-SW White Hot XG #7--------------------------------http://www.linkedin.com/in/normh3


Posted
When it is all said and done, how much does something like that cost? I am a senior in college so money is a little on the tight side and I want to be able to play if I spend some money on changing clubs haha.

Getting fitted could cost you nothing (if the place at which you are getting fitted believes that you plan on making the purchase from them), or it could cost you between $50 - $75, and others could go as high as $100.

As for used clubs, there are lots of on-line options: 3Balls.com, Callaway pre-owned, etc. But in the final analysis it really comes down to how you “feel” standing over the shot. If the clubs you’re gaming right now feel good to you then there really is no reason to make a change. I mean… why spend the money on equipment when you spend the money on playing regularly.

"Every man is his own hell" - H.L. Mencken


Posted
The more I read the more I feel like I made a poor decision going with "clone" type clubs. Brand name is not a big deal to me, but I am wondering if it will hamper my play as I progress over the next few years.

I checked out the Pinemeadow website, and they have been around since 1985 - 25th anniversary coming up in a year when some golf brands are shutting. Are they cloners - copying famous name brands with slight logo changes - or a small regional firm that does their own design? Big question on offbrand clubs is quality control. If they work OK and don't fall apart, what's the problem?

It sounds you got decent clubs for a modest price, so enjoy and don't let the snobs get you down. Once you graduate and your life stabilizes, consider getting custom fitted for clubs. They might be a name brand, or they might be something newer in the Pinemeadow line. Also, check the Bag Drop column link which NormH3 sent you.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Cant say for irons but theres a definate difference between a name brand driver and say a Pine meadow Bloc, I tried one and it was total crap sounds like a tin can. Their cheaper than the real thing for a reason and its not just cause they dont have commercials stay away

DRIVER: R7 460 Draw - 10.5* R Flex 55g
WOODS Taylormade R11 15* , Big Bertha 4w
HYBRID Taylormade Burner Rescue 19*, Taylormade R11 5 Hybrid
IRONS Mizuno Mx-200 4-GW WEDGES CG14 56* PUTTER Sabertooth 34"


Posted
Cant say for irons but theres a definate difference between a name brand driver and say a Pine meadow Bloc, I tried one and it was total crap sounds like a tin can.

Well that is not one of their higher rated products, so i wouldn't expect much from it. It is a square driver which do tend to sound like aluminum bats. The club is only like $49 I would hope it is cheaper than the real thing lol. The Bloc line was not a good line for them based on reviews. The Command and Excel lines are much higher rated.


Posted
To the OP...did you read this?

Thanks. No I had not, but I just did, nice little article. I would rather stick with my Pinemeadow stuff over the box sets. I have a few buddies and relatives that got the box sets. They can be pretty cheaply made. And if I am going to spend $500 for the "higher end" box set I would sooner by used top end clubs.


Posted
There are plenty of quality component brands out there without spending top dollar or getting cheap knockoffs. If you'd like, PM me and I can send you to other forums I frequent where you can get good quality 2nd hand clubs at MORE than reasonable prices and plenty of help with what you need by a bunch of good people.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


Posted
I checked out the Pinemeadow website, and they have been around since 1985 - 25th anniversary coming up in a year when some golf brands are shutting. Are they cloners - copying famous name brands with slight logo changes - or a small regional firm that does their own design? Big question on offbrand clubs is quality control. If they work OK and don't fall apart, what's the problem?

They're effectively 'cloners' if you will, and I entirely agree with you, what's the problem?! They keep their costs down by not advertising at the PGA, and not keeping up with the very latest R&D; but if they've been around for 25 years I expect you'll get quite a reasonable club for a very good price (or they wouldn't still be around)... and given the criteria they sound perfect for a newer player!

Personally it sounds to me like you made a great choice!

Cobra - Speed Pro 8.5º X-Flex, Speed Pro 13º S-Flex | Mizuno - MP CLK 20º Hybrid, MP-67 DG S300 4-PW | Cleveland - CG10 52º,56º, 60º | Rife - Antigua Island 34"


Posted
. . . Brand name is not a big deal to me, but I am wondering if it will hamper my play as I progress over the next few years.

Of course it will hamper your progress. You can only play your best if you spend at least $800 on an iron set.

Seriously though, I'd stick with your current irons, and try a different club here or there over the years. When you're ready to move up from clones, you'll know.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
imo, what you have is fine for now. once you get serious about the game, then go out and get yourself some better clubs. theres nothing wrong with what you have to learn the game with. im sure they are just fine quality-wise

Posted
I checked out the Pinemeadow website, and they have been around since 1985 - 25th anniversary coming up in a year when some golf brands are shutting. Are they cloners - copying famous name brands with slight logo changes - or a small regional firm that does their own design? Big question on offbrand clubs is quality control. If they work OK and don't fall apart, what's the problem?

Great advice, in time you will be able to buy what you want, for now go play cause you have what you need.

It ain't bragging if you can do it.
 
Taylor Made Burner '09 8.5* UST Pro Force V2, Mizuno F-60 3 wood UST Pro Force V2, Mizuno MP-68 3-PW  S300, Bobby Jones Wedges S and L, Nike Ignite 001, Leupold GX-II


Posted
You are fine with what you have, but I would take them to a club fitter to make sure the lengths and lie angles are appropriate.

Once you are consistenty breaking 90, think about upgrading.

I learned golf and played with hand me down clubs for my first six years in the game. (clubs were made for someone 5'8''--I'm 6'5'') It instilled some poor posture habits in my set up.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Note: This thread is 5851 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 1: 2025.12.26 Worked on LH position on grip, trying to keep fingers closer to perpendicular to the club. Feels awkward but change is meant to.
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. This prevents the trail side from gaining depth, as is needed to keep the pelvis center from thrusting toward the ball. Most of the "early extension" (thrust) that I see occurs during the backswing. Encourages Early Extension (Thrust) Patterns When you've thrust and turned around the trail hip joint in the backswing, you often thrust a bit more in the downswing as the direction your pelvis is oriented is forward and "out" (to the right for a righty). Your trail leg can abduct to push you forward, but "forward" when your pelvis is turned like that is in the "thrust" direction. Additionally, the trail knee "breaking" again at the start of the downswing often jumps the trail hip out toward the ball a bit too much or too quickly. While the trail hip does move in that direction, if it's too fast or too much, it can prevent the lead side hip from getting "back" at the right rate, or at a rate commensurate with the trail hip to keep the pelvis center from thrusting. Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. Swaying/Lateral Motion Occasionally a golfer who extends the trail knee too much will shift back too far, but more often the issue is that the golfer will shift forward too early in the backswing (sometimes even immediately to begin the backswing), leaving them "stuck forward" to begin the downswing. They'll push forward, stop, and have to restart around P4, disrupting the smooth sequence often seen in the game's best players. Other Bits… Reduces ground reaction force potential, compromises spine inclination and posture, makes transition sequencing harder, increases stress on the trail knee and lower back… In short… It's not athletic. We don't do many athletic things with "straight" or very extended legs (unless it's the end of the action, like a jump or a big push off like a step in a running motion).
    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.