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Posted

So I guess the minimum stiffness would the the stiffness of the stiffest shaft out of the lot. FWIW, I plan on putting these in and playing with them a bit and if I can tell a difference, I may get them done.

BUT, say I buy 8 X-100's. You say they can only get stiffer if I match them, but what if I want the stiffness to be X-100 standard stiffnes? Is that not possible if some are already stiffer than X-100's from true temper b/c of quality control issues?
For the rest of us reading this thread-

9.5º TaylorMade R9 TP VooDoo XNV6 | TaylorMade R9 TP 13º 3W & 19º 5W Both with Fujikura Motore F1 85 | Mizuno MP-57 DG X-100 (3-PW) | Titleist Vokey 52º, 56º, 60º | 34'' Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 | The Cardinal Club [73.9/135]


Posted
So I guess the minimum stiffness would the the stiffness of the stiffest shaft out of the lot. FWIW, I plan on putting these in and playing with them a bit and if I can tell a difference, I may get them done.

The problem lies in what "standard" (or whose standard) is being used. There are no standards in golf equipment. There are "averages" or "commonly used" measurements but no real standards. One company's stiff flex is another company's extra stiff and yet another company's regular flex. As a clubmaker who uses a frequency machine to measure for stiffness I can tell you (as many of us can) that there is more to shaft stiffness measuring than just reading the label.

A common "old school" way of sorting out shafts was by weight, the heaviest would (likely) be the stiffest and therefor go into the shorter irons or wedges because they would get the most trimming for length and the weight of the clubhead would flex them more during the swing. Take your raw, uncut, X-100 and measure it's actual CPM (cycles per minute) with a given head on it, a 3i let's say at the length you intend it to play at. Now trim the tip according to what TT says. Check the CPM again and you're likely to find that OMG it's too stiff for me! Then there's the issue of "spines" and how they affect stiffness, FLO, and playability. See www.tutelman.com for this. It's an excellent site for techie stuff on golf clubs. I've built many sets with X-100s and sometimes they start out stiffer than what I wanted without any trimming. Not trying to cause dismay, just want to educate more people about golf club realities.

KZG Gemini 9* Aldila Proto By You
Leyland COPlasma 3wd
Golfsmith Q4 19*
Louisville HyLofter 24*
Wishon 770CFEs w/Nippons
Alpha P2 wedges
Louisville EWP putter


Note: This thread is 5807 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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