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Posted
I've been doing a little research on maybe going to a mixed set. I love my short irons but have been somewhat inconsistent with the long irons. I've been having trouble making a decision on what to go with. I don't have a store close enough to try out many so I was hoping to draw on your experience. How do the Mizuno MP Fli Hi long iron replacements compare to long irons from game improvement sets? I was thinking about either getting the fli-hi's or long irons from an MX set.

Driver: 909D3 9.5*
Wood: 909F3 15*
Hybrid: a4 3-4H
Irons: MP-57 5-PW
Wedges: MP R 50.5 SM 54.12 MP R 58.10Putter: Pro Platinum Newport 2 Mid SlantCorrect me if I'm wrong Sandy, but if I kill all the golfers, they're gonna lock me up and throw away the key...


Posted
I've yet to try the MX long irons. Prior to finding my current hybrids, I was using a FLI-HI 3-iron, which I loved. I still love.

As I may have said elsewhere, Brian Gay chose the MX 3,4 over the FLI HIs, and won two tournaments last year with those in his bag, one by 10 shots.

Also, a note of caution: not all the MX sets have a 3-iron. On the other hand, the MX-1000 have a 22° 4-iron, which isn't too far from your 3-iron (assuming standard lofts in your MP-57s).

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Tour Edge Exotics C723 21 degree hybrid.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

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Posted
The MP Fli-Hi are harder to hit well than an MX series long iron. Thats why they are MPs.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted
I just bought the MP Fli Hi 3i
Also have a mixed set, that I think is sweet

MP Fli Hi 3i
MP-57 4-7
MP-32 8-PW

yes they are all not "in the same family" but they will do the trick
"My swing is homemade - but I have perfect flaws!" - Me

Posted
the mp fli hi are made to be a more forgiving option than the current MP irons. i haven't hit them but i would expect them to compare to the MP-52 or somewhere between the 52 and MX-300 in terms of forgiveness.
i would go for MP 52 or MX 300 short irons, or perhaps even the MX-200 if you're looking for extra forgiveness. if i owned the MP-57 i would perhaps play the MP-52 or MX-300 3/4 iron depending on which one liked better.

Posted
I have played the MP Fli Hi 2 and 3 irons for the past 2-3 years and love them. I loved my MP 37 irons, but the 3 iron was impossible to hit and the 4 iron was inconsistent at best. I'm a 5 handicap and am now hitting MP 68 blades which I love, but I only got the 5-PW so I could keep hitting the Fli Hi 2 and 3 irons. Also got a MX 700 hybrid 17 deg which I love. If your playing game improvement irons you can use their 3-4 irons, but if your playing a blade the Fli His are much more forgiving in my opinion.

Note: This thread is 5890 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

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    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
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