Wood selection advice needed

[Texas solo]

I'm starting to look at a set of woods...just a #3 & #5. I have no idea what to look at as far as loft, etc is concerned. What criteria should I use in making a selection? There are so many variables that go into it, and honestly, I don't understand them all. I really can't afford to go to the pros and get "fitted", so I'm probably looking to buy at a sports chain like Dicks or Academy.
I've been playing par 3's exclusively since taking the game up again, but I also want to hit the woods before I feel right about playing 18. I just don't want to hold anyone else up.
My irons are Callaway X18r, and I'm hitting them really well with the medium flex shaft.
Thanks for any advice.

[kpaulhus]

Most places will fit you for free if you buy the club from them...Fitting is probably your best bet. It cant hurt to ask.

[Shindig]

First, I think it's awesome that you have a priority of not holding up groups on the golf course.

Second, for fairway woods, most manufacturers will have their woods within the same range; for example, most 5-woods are within a degree of 19°. It isn't like pitching wedges that can be 8 degrees from other pitching wedges. The only exception is 3-Woods, for which there seem to be a lot of 3+ woods, which I call 2-woods. I suggest not getting the super-strong 13.5° ones, but stick with ones in the 15-16 degree range, unless your purpose is using it as a shorter driver (in which case, consider getting a high lofted driver instead).

The first issue to consider in the fairway woods is why you are getting them. I don't mean "get them or don't get them," but are you getting a 3-wood as a backup driver or to hit from the deck for a second shot on long holes? This will affect whether you want one with a deep or shallow face, tall or short.

You should also consider face angle. Do you slice regularly? If so, and if you want your club to fix this, you can get a closed-face wood. Similarly, if you hook and want the club to help, there are open faced woods. If you're planning on improving your swing, or shaping shots, or you just want the club to do what your swing is doing, I suggest neutral faced woods.

Shape is a little less of an issue. Most fairway woods look like you'd expect them to, since you've played before. However, there are some other shapes out there. I used to think I'd hate a square wood, but I have a square 4-wood, and I love it.

Finally, don't discount fitting. Many shops and companies will fit you for free if you're buying their product. Dick's, I believe, can and will fit you for shaft length and flex on fairway woods free of charge, if you're going to make a purchase. If it costs the same and can only help you, there's no reason (in my mind) to not do this. Similarly, most equipment manufacturers will do this for you at demo days: my current set of irons, for example, were fit for me by a Mizuno rep at a demo day.

[Texas solo]

First, I think it's awesome that you have a priority of not holding up groups on the golf course.

Thanks for the compliment and advice.

The #3 would be for those longer second shots, but will have to double as a driver for now. So I guess I should get the best #3 for me as a "deck shooter" and just live with it off the tee untill I can afford a driver. I did know about the open or closed face angles. Back in the day when I was playing regular, I had a slice when I really tried to smack the ball out there. I learned that I was dropping my shoulder opening the clubface when I did this, so I learned not too. I lost some distance, but more than made up for it by hitting straight. So I think I'll go neutral on that. Now, given that we've established that I want the #3 wood for a "deck shooter", can you please explain this: The first issue to consider in the fairway woods is why you are getting them. I don't mean "get them or don't get them," but are you getting a 3-wood as a backup driver or to hit from the deck for a second shot on long holes? This will affect whether you want one with a deep or shallow face, tall or short. Do I want a deep or shallow face and what's the difference" Do I want tall or short and whats the difference? Thanks for the advice. Back in the day, (1990's) I was just using an off the shelf set of Northwestern clubs, and I have no idea what the specs on them were. I had a 16HC with them. I gave them away after my accident when the Doctor told me that I'd never play again with a fused ankle and a plate in the Fibula. Joke's on him! But being older and wiser now, I want to get what's best for me and my game.

[max power]

I'd also recommend a hybrid over a 5 wood. 3 wood makes sense (though I often sub in a 16* hybrid), especially if it's going to double for your driver, but an 18-21* hybrid is, imo, easier to hit and more versatile than a 5 wood. And I used a 20* 5 wood for a good 10 years before switching to the Heavenwood in my sig. Slightly shorter shaft, minimal loss of distance, lands much softer (when you want), also easier to hit a low punch shot with, and much easier to hit out of a tricky lie than a 5 wood.

[Shindig]

The #3 would be for those longer second shots, but will have to double as a driver for now. So I guess I should get the best #3 for me as a "deck shooter" and just live with it off the tee untill I can afford a driver.

Actually, just about any 3-wood doubles nicely as a driver. If you were buying it strictly for that purpose, though, there are some that are better for that, at a significant loss in the "off the deck" ability.

Do I want a deep or shallow face and what's the difference"

Part of it is how it looks at address. Others are performance differences from various lies. My understanding is that tall faces tend to be better from great lies and on the tee, but aren't as useful in tight lies or rough. Deep and shallow affect the forgiveness of the shot: how relatively straight it will go, and also how much you can work the shot.

Max Power's suggestion, below, about considering a hybrid instead of a 5-Wood is worth entertaining. Hybrids have effectively replaced long irons in many players' bags these days. You may want to hit some low-hybrids, around the 18-19 degree range, in the hitting bay to decide whether you want that or a 5-wood.

Thanks for the advice. Back in the day, (1990's) I was just using an off the shelf set of Northwestern clubs, and I have no idea what the specs on them were. I had a 16HC with them. I gave them away after my accident when the Doctor told me that I'd never play again with a fused ankle and a plate in the Fibula. Joke's on him! But being older and wiser now, I want to get what's best for me and my game.

IIRC, Hogan was also told after his accident that he wouldn't play golf again.

[Texas solo]

Wow, thanks guys! I now have a better understanding of what to look/ask for.
Now I'm thinking about a #3 wood as a dedicated driver (or fairway club with good lie) and a hybrid #5.
Today I will go to Edwin Watts in San Antonio and see what happens.

Who am I kidding.....I think I'll be in trouble with the Mrs. tonight

[drglew]

Hmm...an alternate opinion from me: if you don't yet have a driver, i'd get a driver. No, you probably can't hit it off of a fairway (although fun to try sometimes!). However, although "popular opinion" often says fairway woods are less erratic than drivers, i've read more recent articles saying the opposite - as there's more room for forgiveness in a giant club face and 460cc head, and more room to build in technology to help mnimize/correct misses. Personally, if i need to hit a fairway i'd much rather pull driver than my 4W, as it's more accurate for me.

You might still need a FW or hybrid though as well. If these are your first long clubs and you're still pretty much starting out, there's no need to spend mucho $$ though, as your swing may get a lot better and you find your initial purchase doesn't suit you. I'd stick with a reliable brand though, but probably opt for a model thats a year or two old, which often can be found for <$100 a club. I'd bet you could get both a good driver and hybrid for <$200 total.