Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 4529 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
How much does it cost to regrip some older clubs. I recently purchased some used irons and would like to get some new grips on them because I really don't like wraps. So I was wondering is it cheaper for me to do it(I don't know how...)or to get somebody to do it at the pro shop? Also how much will it cost? Thanks!

Posted
Usually $3/club labor, and $4-$8 a grip. Can get a bit pricey for a full set.

What's in my bag:

Driver: Tour Burner 9.5
Fairway: Comp 15* Aldila NVS
Hybrids: 19* & 22*Irons: CG2 4-PWWedges: CG12 52*, 56*Putter: Studio Design Newport 1.5Ball: One BlackBag: GPS: SG3


Posted
The local Golfsmith here will occasionally do a day or weekend where they regrip your clubs for $1 labor. If you already have the grip tape and solvent, it's always cheaper to do it yourself. If not, I'd either learn to do it or find a deal like that.

What's in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag:

Driver - Taylormade Superfast 2.0 TP 10.5
3 Wood - Taylormade Burner 15* REAX
Hybrid - Adams Idea Pro 18* GD YSQ-HL

Irons - Callaway X-18 4-PW

GW - Cleveland 588 51*

SW - Cleveland CG 12 56*

LW - Cleveland CG15 60*

Putter - Cameron Studio Style Newport 2

Bushnell Medalist rangefinder


Posted
No, I don't have the solvent or anything, but I'm not opposed to learning how to do it. Would like to learn how to do it, just don't wanna mess up and be out some grips. Is it relatively easy or is it hard to change the grips?

Posted
If you have access to a vise it's easy. You'll need some grip tape (double-sided masking tape), grip solvent (mineral spirits works well too) and a utility knife to cut off the old grips - just be careful not to cut into a graphite shaft. Detailed step-by-step instructions are readily availale online, but I'll sum up the process:

1. Remove the old grips and tape from the clubs
2. Wrap the double sided tape around the butt of the shaft - enough to cover the length of the grip
3. Apply solvent to the inside of the grip and onto the tape - Dont be stingy with it!
4. Align the grip how you want it and smmothly slide it down the shaft until it's completely on. Once you start, don't stop until it's on all the way. You can fine tune the alignment after it's on, but not for long.
5. Allow the solvent to dry a few hours before swinging the clubs
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

  • Administrator
Posted
I don't want to give away the review, but I've really liked the PURE grips I've been playing with lately. They go on easily. I had (still have) the full double-sided tape and solvent and all that jazz and frankly it was just too much of a mess. It took four times as long to put grips on and that was when you did it right. You were always worrying about pushing the grips on quickly enough.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I don't want to give away the review, but I've really liked the PURE grips I've been playing with lately. They go on easily. I had (still have) the full double-sided tape and solvent and all that jazz and frankly it was just too much of a mess. It took four times as long to put grips on and that was when you did it right. You were always worrying about pushing the grips on quickly enough.

I prefer using an air compressor as well (and anxiously await your review of the PURE grips).

Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
There are some really good videos on youtube that show you how to regrip a club. I'm lucky that the guys at my local driving range don't charge me for labour when changing grips but it can still be pretty pricey regardless when you're getting a whole set done.

Posted
I know Pro Golf replaces grip for a dollar plus cost of grips, but I know you can bring your own grips in and they will replace for a nominal charge.

Posted
I had a set of irons regripped once and not one of them is aligned the same.

For bicycle grips the air compressor and needle nozzel really helps.

Next set I will either do myself or will be there when someone does the job.

How much does a shaft vise cost? I guess I've got some web searching to do. I assume the vise is a set of jaws that hold a shaft without crushing it?

Taylormade M2 driver @ 9.5*+2

TM M6 D-type 3wood 16*, 
TM M2 Rescue 3H@19* and 4H@22* ,
TM RocketBladez irons 5-9,PW,AW, SW(23*,26.5*,30.5*,35*,40*,45*,50*,55*),
TM Hi-Toe 60* wedge,
Ping Karsten 1959 Craz-E, or a Scotty
Bushnell Tour V3 rangefinder


Posted
Pretty easy to do...a few highlights, a hooked utlility knife really helps on removal of grips..be careful not to scratch graphite shafts. Keep the new tape smooth..goo gone is great at removing old residue. A foil roasting pan makes a great solvent catcher and easy to bend a corner in order to return to container. Once you go to push the grip on..push all the way thru in one motion..stopping is not the best idea, kinda hard to get going again. If you put the clubs out in the direct sun afterwards they dry relatively fast. Goo gone on a paper towel to clean the entire shaft afterwards

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip


Posted
First, you pretty much have to have a vise to hold the club. There's a little rubber doohickey you can buy for a couple of bucks that fits onto the clubshaft to protect it, so no special vise is required.

Second, you can get a grip removing tool (it's just a small hooked blade) for a few bucks if you don't have an air compressor.

Third, a can of lighter fluid is cheaper than the solvents the golf stores sell, and quite frankly, I trust inhaling lighter fluid fumes a lot more than the weirdo chemical solvents they sell that are "safe". I don't plan on blowing up the garage when I change grips, and the smell of the "special solvents" absolutely terrifies me. There is no chance whatsoever that they have been tested for all the health problems they might cause (think lawn chemicals). Better the devil you know than the one you don't as they say.

Third, if you know what kind of grips you like, by them by the cargo load and they're a lot cheaper. Most people don't change grips often enough anyhow, so don't be one of them. Grips don't rot in the box, so load up. If you get a new club or few, you'll be able to change the grips immediately. (Clubs rarely come with a grip I like...)

Fourth, load up the solvent! Don't be shy!

Fifth, in most how-tos, they show wrapping the grip tape in a spiral down the shaft. BAG THAT! Merely take the two-sided tape and drape it evenly over the end of the grip, with 10 inches or so running straight down each side. Smooth it down. When you remove the cover tape, push the tape that's draped over the hole at the end of the shaft down inside flush so it doesn't snag when you push the grip on. Works fine and saves a LOT of time. If you need bigger grips, start with bigger grips, don't put extra wraps of tape on the shaft.

"If you are going to throw a club, it is important to throw it ahead of you, down the fairway, so you don't have to waste energy going back to pick it up." Tommy Bolt
Insight XTD 9.5°, Insight 14.5°, X16 P-4iron, Edge 3H

Powerbuilt 2iron and SW, Cleveland 54°, Odyssey Rossi II

 

 


Posted
IMHO....do it yourself! In the long run its way, way cheaper.


You don't need any vises or special equipment to do it, (contrary to what some on here say) and it doesn't take but less than 5 minutes a club.

All you need is the new grips, a razor blade of some sort (I use a retractable box cutter), some double sided tape, and some sort of solvent that evaporates quickly (I use lighter fluid most of the time since that is what I always lying around the house, but you can buy "grip solvent" or use other similar solvents).

I just regripped my 3I at home last night, in my living room, while watching TV, and it took 2 minutes and 10 seconds, from start to finish. Its soooo easy to do.

Just start with clubs with a metal shaft first (so you can practice and not have to worry about scratching the shaft like you do with graphite) and after you do two or three of them, you'll have the hang of it.

Whats in my Four5....

10.5 degree R7 460
Great Big Bertha 3W
Bazooka Geo Max 3H MP-32 3 - PW 588 Raw Tour Grind 52 degree 588 Raw Tour Grind 56 degree BC1


Posted
IMHO....do it yourself! In the long run its way, way cheaper.

I will post another recommindation for Karma brand grips. Especially if you do the grips yourself. THey have a velvet grip that plays almost identical to the GP velvet grip but the Karma grips are only 90 cents a piece. If you do the job by yourself, you can regrip you entire set of clubs for approx $30 (and that includes a big roll of tape, solvant and shipping) The only downside to the Karma grips is they don't last as long as other grips I have tried but for $1 a piece ($2 if you want the multi compound) you can replace grips very cost effectively yearly or more often if you play alot.

http://info.hirekogolf.com/golf-grips/karma-grips/

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water


Posted
IMHO....do it yourself! In the long run its way, way cheaper.

Agreed, and I've done a few sitting on the couch tubing out, but if you're regripping a set or more than a couple of clubs, it's so much easier using a vice. Admittedly, it's merely a nicety. And the grip cutter tool is easier to use than a box cutter, and a little safer maybe. Worth getting one for a few bucks, I think -- they're cheap.

Just start with clubs with a metal shaft first (so you can practice and not have to worry about scratching the shaft like you do with graphite) and after you do two or three of them, you'll have the hang of it.

Really easy. There's a reasonable chance that you'll do it poorly the first time, but once you get the picture, it's no big deal.

"If you are going to throw a club, it is important to throw it ahead of you, down the fairway, so you don't have to waste energy going back to pick it up." Tommy Bolt
Insight XTD 9.5°, Insight 14.5°, X16 P-4iron, Edge 3H

Powerbuilt 2iron and SW, Cleveland 54°, Odyssey Rossi II

 

 


Posted
Agreed, and I've done a few sitting on the couch tubing out, but if you're regripping a set or more than a couple of clubs, it's so much easier using a vice. Admittedly, it's merely a nicety.

Agreed. And, FWIW, didnt mean that to come off as calling you out specifically, if it did. Just re-read what I wrote and comming right after your post, it looked like I was calling you out.

Whats in my Four5....

10.5 degree R7 460
Great Big Bertha 3W
Bazooka Geo Max 3H MP-32 3 - PW 588 Raw Tour Grind 52 degree 588 Raw Tour Grind 56 degree BC1


Posted
Most of the questions about regripping have been answered, but I will add one thing. If you do-it-yourself at home, you DO NOT need to have a vise. Granted it makes it a little easier, but it is not necessary to install a shop vise in the basement or garage just to change grips. I have regripped hundreds of clubs and have never once used a vise.

I will judge my rounds much more by the quality of my best shots than the acceptability of my worse ones.


Posted
Thanks guys! Going to give it a try on my own, just going to buy a few extra's in case I mess up. Looking at the golf pride DD2 series right now. any advice on some good grips? thanks!

Note: This thread is 4529 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
    • Wordle 1,668 3/6 🟨🟨🟩⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,668 3/6 🟨🟩🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Should have got it in two, but I have music on my brain.
    • Wordle 1,668 2/6* 🟨🟨🟩⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.