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Posted
Hello, I am using a TaylorMade r5 driver 9.5 currently but something is loose inside and when I move it around I can hear it moving up and down the shaft. Also, i think it is time for me to try out a new driver. I was using my buddies r9 driver 10.5 and was hitting the ball phenomenally, but I'm pretty sure that club is very expensive (not quite sure what they are going for). Does anyone have any advice on what driver i should further look into? I shoot in the low to mid 90s usually btw with the occasional 80s round.

Any help would be appreciated

Posted

I recently picked up the Callaway Diablo Edge 10.5. Loving every minute of it. It retails at 299.99 but can easily be had for 149.99 -- That's what I got it for a few weeks ago at GolfGalaxy. But the majority of people here will give their .02 like I did, then tell you that it's ultimately up to you and to go hit some at your local shop and figure out what feels best to you.

Go hit some at your local shop and figure out what feels best to you.

In the Sasquatch Bag:


Driver: R9 460cc 9.5°
Hybrids: Big Bertha Diablo 21° 24°Wedges: SV Tour 52° 56° 60°Irons: Power Max TRX Ion Control 5-PWPutter: tm100 Tour PreferredBall: e6


Posted
Thanks! Yeah i figure everyones going to say go swing the clubs and find your best fit, but I am trying to see what some of you guys suggest just for some reference as well.

thanks for your post

Posted
No sweat. I hear the G15 Driver is pretty incredible as well, wasn't in my price range when I was looking though.

In the Sasquatch Bag:


Driver: R9 460cc 9.5°
Hybrids: Big Bertha Diablo 21° 24°Wedges: SV Tour 52° 56° 60°Irons: Power Max TRX Ion Control 5-PWPutter: tm100 Tour PreferredBall: e6


Posted
Most people are going to tell you that their driver is the best one, but it usually isn't true. If you tried my 907 you'd probably hate it but it works for me. One thing I can tell you is that I also played a r5, and a few new comparable models are the burner family, the cobra S2, the diablo edge like KD Epic said (though the stock shaft is meh). My suggestion will always be go get fitted by a professional, if that isn't possible, go to a major golf store and hit all the drivers, don't go by what the simulators say, go by what you feel (you should know when its a good drive).
Boom Stick: 907 D2 w/accuflex The juice
3 wood: 909F2 w/Fujikura Motore F1 55
Hybrid: 909H 19* w/Fujikura Motore F1 80HB
Irons: 2010 AP2 (3-PW) w/Dynamic Gold S300
Wedges: Spinmilled 54*, 60*Putter: 2002 Studio Design 1.5Balls: Pro V1Range Finder: Pro 1600Proud Member of Piranhas Golf Team Ecole de...

Posted
All of the manufacturers put out an excellent product. And you will not go wrong with any of them. I recommend that you bring in your current driver and swing it along with every other club out there to determine which club works best for you. What works for one person might not work for another.

Also, don't be afraid to not buy anything on your first visit. I went to the store three times last year and hit the FTiQ, but couldn't justify the $500 price tag. This spring I purchased a Nickent driver for $30 online. I went back to the store to hit the FTiQ again expecting that I would hit it way better (because I loved it last year) and found that I hit my nickent better. The point I am trying to make is that, hitting a driver well one day in the store might be the swing that you brought with you for that day. Also, when you stand in one of those simulators (at least I do) i tend to over swing because I am trying to impress the guy running it with a huge number.

Also, as for the rattle in your driver head, it is probably a small piece of loose epoxy, a club tech could probably remove the head from the shaft, extract the loose piece of epoxy and glue it back together for you, shouldn't cost more than $20 or so to get repaired.

In my bag:

some golf clubs

a few golf balls

a bag of tee's some already broken the rest soon to be

a snickers wrapper (if you have seen me play, you would know you are not going anywhere for a while)

and an empty bottle of water


Posted
Also, as for the rattle in your driver head, it is probably a small piece of loose epoxy, a club tech could probably remove the head from the shaft, extract the loose piece of epoxy and glue it back together for you, shouldn't cost more than $20 or so to get repaired.

But... Driver shopping is fun!

To the OP - the others above hit it dead on. See if a shop nearby can set you up on a simulator and evaluate your clubhead speed, ball speed, launch angle and spin rates. This is good info to have in your back pocket, where the technological "rubber" really meets the road. What is your price range?

In the Bag: TaylorMade R11 TP - TaylorMade R7 TP TS - Cleveland Halo - TM TP 2009 3-PW - Vokey SM 52 - Vokey SM 60 - Rife Barbados CS - ProV1x 


On the Computer:  Analyzr Pro 
 


Posted
LOVE my Nickent Evolver 4Dx (and all the adjustability options with different shafts etc.); available at Rockbottomgolf.com for $79 currently (and they had intermittent sales over the past few months for $57 i think).

Driver: Cleveland Classic 270, 10.5*
Fairway Woods: Adams Speedline LP (3 & 5)
Hybrids: Wilson Staff Fybrids 21*, 24*, UST V2 stiff
Irons: Callaway X-20 Tour, 5-PW, Rifle Project-X (flighted) 6.0
Wedges: Cleveland CG15 DSG 52* & 58* +/- 56* Niblick

Putter: Yes! Amy


Posted
I am sure you can find models in the stores that are last years model in your price range. I would go and hit some. See which one feels right and take it home with you. I am currently playing the FT-9 tour and I really like it. You might be able to find it for what you are looking to spend, however it will feel significantly lighter than the one you are currently playing. The composite heads really make a difference IMO. Good luck on your quest to find a new driver.

You should have someone take a look at your driver. Maybe it just needs a re-shaft or something. Could save you some $$$.

|Callaway I-MIX FT-9  - Driver | Callaway Diablo Octane - 3 Wood | Callaway Diablo Edge Tour [3H & 4H] - Hybrids | Callaway X-forged 2009 - Irons | Callaway JAWS [52, 56, 60] - Wedges | SC Studio Style Newport 2 / Laguna 1.5 / Kombi-S - Putter |
 


Posted
I'm looking to spend under 200

I've spent the past three days researching as I am in the same room as you. If you're a Slicer, I think the best Driver your best bet is the Adams Speedline Draw Driver. I'm a slicer/pusher myself. I hit 10+ drivers at Golf Galaxy over the weekend and my best results were with the Speedline. I went with the Adams A4OS Driver since I could get it a little cheaper while getting a few extra yards. $80 cheaper and got my irons regripped


Posted
I'm looking to spend under 200

burner 09 or burner 07. brilliant brilliant stuff.

in my opinion the two best drivers by taylormade ever.

07 Burner regular flex. (my dads-doing wonders with it) :D
supersteel burner steel shaft strong 3 wood
R7 draw 5 wood
Rapture 4-pw uw. Red dot. <3
56 deg sw60 deg Cg14 white steel two ball putter penta golf shoes. =D


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    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. 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    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
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