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Posted
  maxca2cci said:
The AP2's are great clubs, but the R9 TP's are very similar with a wider head. I was torn between the two until I noticed how much more hitting space there was on the TP's. I just ordered them today and I am selling my Ping G10's (which I got when i was a 30 index ((1 year ago). Now that I am an 8.5, I need a Cav-Back blade and I am going to get all the distance of a a blade with the forgiveness of a Ping in the R9 TP's. To be honest, unless your a Titleist pro, I don't see why anyone would choose the AP2's. It's a forged club with a plastic insert (?), and is so small that if you don't hit it perfectly its not going to be anywhere near the green. The only other clubs I could suggest besides the TP's are maybe some Mizuno's. But the technology in the TP's is so superior to that of the Mizuno's. Also the TP's are technically not "forged", so all the more forgiveness. It's all up to you man, but at 8-10 handicaps, we can't sacrifice all forgiveness.

The AP-2 is a dual cavity with a

tungsten insert. I don't know where you get this plastic crap. You play your GI cavities all you like, but do your homework before you start runing off at the keyboard. Are you really an 8.5 handicap and can't hit the AP-2? In December of 2008 I tried the TM TP's before I bought the Titleist's, but I preferred the look, feel and performance of my forged Titleist AP-2's.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Posted
  pbillaa said:
Adams a-7, I am a 5 and I think they are great. Look like players clubs, play like OS clubs.

.

Adams A4's are forged, yet the same specs as the A7's that aren't forged. The new Adams CB2's are another option for ya. Heck even A3's are great clubs, and you can now get them new for a deal.

Posted
  mcotter said:
i appreciate the responses. I have been concerned that at an 8.7 index (been as low as 6.8 and high as 10.3) in the last 18 months, that players clubs may be too difficult to hit. ...

Possibly it's more of a question of where you're going than where you are. If you've made the commitment to work towards scratch, go with player's clubs - as long as they will help you improve your game.

Will the so-called players clubs help you hit shots which you can't pull off with your current set? And, can you devote enough practice time to get to where you could hit those new shots? As far as club model design: * Take some of the possible club models and check your set-up with them. Some clubs are flatter in their "standard" lie than others. * Some clubs are more bendable than others, and some models can come from the factory with custom lies. For example, the Callaway X22, X22 Tour and X-Forged models offer + or - 3º variance in lie. Ping pioneered factory lie variance with their color-coded fitting chart. If one of the club manufacturer's Tour Vans visit a local demo day, it might be worthwhile to drop in since you may benefit from custom clubs.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Posted
I think someones else stated this too... but most people get too much club for their game. They want to be low handicappers, and think a Players Club or Blade will help them... when in fact it hurts their performance.
Give a Tour Pro any quality Game Improvement Club and they will score just as well as they do with a Blade.. in fact many play these type clubs.

Posted
  Cornbread said:
I think someones else stated this too... but most people get too much club for their game. They want to be low handicappers, and think a Players Club or Blade will help them... when in fact it hurts their performance.

Personally, as long as an iron set looks good and I can consistently return every iron from the 9 though the 3 to the ball, the way I want, I don't care where it falls on the Game Improvement spectrum. I think a player using the wrong type of club for their eye and style of play leads to problems at any skill level.

I've considered moving to newer players irons from old blades (in spite of their high purchase price) but whenever I hit those "players" irons they just felt wrong to me. One brand I checked out was Cleveland since I respect their quality. The only new Cleveland iron I liked that wasn't a blade, is the CG7 Tour. Those babies seemed harder to hit than any blade I've used - shots no better, with a lifeless feeling even on good shots. No thank you. As you say, if a Tour Pro will score "just as well" with a GI club, why would they switch to one? Now, if they scored "much better" with GI sticks, switch right away. Either way, at our level, if you're gonna miss the green with either type of iron, why not use the one with more control when chipping. For me (IMHO) there's no substitute for pitching and chipping with an older blade.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
Played ping and callaway irons my whole life got my mizuno irons about 3 months and I have never hit so many greens. I doubt I will ever picked up anything other then a mizuno ever again.

Driver - FT-iQ
4 Wood - G10
Irons - MX-200
Wedges - 52,56,60
Putter - Bettinardi Ball - ProV1Bag - HooferMy Course - Magnolia Creek Golf Links


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