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reshafting clubs with pin in hosel (?)


Note: This thread is 3669 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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My Dad bought a set of Maxfli Australian Blades in College from the coach of the golf team at the United States Air Force Academy, where he went, some 35 years ago. At the height of my playing in high school I actually re-gripped them and played quite well with them. My desire was to reshaft them with Dynamic Gold S300 shafts that are a half inch over standard length (as my father and I both use) and keep them as a set to use until I save for a new set of custom fit Titleist AP2s as I have grown out of my regular flex PING ISI-S. I bought 1 shaft and was gonna use a random grip I had laying around to try it out before I do the whole set. As I started I noticed that there is a pin of sorts driven through one side of the hosel and shaft. for removal do I just drill it out and should I replace it? and if so what and how should I do this? drill a hole in the shaft while in the hosel and then drive in new pin?

OG Hoofer bag
Titleist 905R 9.5°, Grapite Design YS-6+ (S)
Callaway Warbird 4 wood, Grafalloy ProLaunch 65S
Ping ISI-s: JZ Cushin Regular flex, white dot
Titleist Vokey Design 54° "AW", Cleveland 588 60° "LW", Ping IWI Craz-E

Home Course: Falcon Dunes, Luke AFB, AZ

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Pinned hosels are not the easiest to work with although it is possible. Sometimes heating and using a nail punch can work. You need a good solid vise and maybe a block of wood to rest the hosel in so that it dosent damage the chrome. Sometimes you need to punch from both sides since they can be flared. I am not sure that anyone would repin them in the reshaft portion, they most likely will be taper tip shafts. If I were to repin, it may be easiest to fit shaft into the hosel and then drill the hole. Make sure you have a new bit and it may not go thru but would mark the spot that needs to be drilled. after drying you can file down to a smooth finish. With the strength of todays epoxy some would just shaft and fill the hole w melted lead or silver colored epoxy

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip

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what, if anything, would you recommend to use as a pin? can I just get some thin metal rod or something.

OG Hoofer bag
Titleist 905R 9.5°, Grapite Design YS-6+ (S)
Callaway Warbird 4 wood, Grafalloy ProLaunch 65S
Ping ISI-s: JZ Cushin Regular flex, white dot
Titleist Vokey Design 54° "AW", Cleveland 588 60° "LW", Ping IWI Craz-E

Home Course: Falcon Dunes, Luke AFB, AZ

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i've been surprised with how little info i can find on this. i just bought a set of '88 hogan apex redlines (with pins) which i'm reshafting. i'd really like to use something that looks like the original pin, just for aesthetics. there's got to be something out there. i've been pouring through mcmaster, but can't seem to find anything.

905T 9.5* Driver, Aldilla NV &
Great Big Bertha S2H2 10* Driver (1996), DG X100
906F2 18* Metal, DG X200
DCI 990 1-iron, DG S300
690MB 2-PW, Rifle 6.5 Apex Redline 3-E (1992), Apex 448-06, 54-14, 58-8, 60-4 Oil Can, Rifle Flighted 6.5Studio Design 1.5 PutterRadial Blade Putter (1992)

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what, if anything, would you recommend to use as a pin? can I just get some thin metal rod or something.

Try calling golfworks, they

may have some..probably not in the catalog but someone there would know if they have them...the metal is on the softer side....you could hammer it flat and then lightly file it for the finished product.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip

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  • 3 years later...

In my experienc e, reshafting a pinned hosel is manageable with some patience and proper tools. I am actually in the process of bringing an old set of Hogan Apex II's back into playing shape. I managed to remove all the shafts (2 - wedge) in about an hour. The key for the pin is a good punch (I use a Bostitch 1/32", a few dollars at Lowes) - left photo. A cheap vise with some rubber pads can hold the club while you use the punch. Put the punch over the center of the pin, strike hard with a hammer. Two or three blows should get it out. A piece of advice I picked up a while ago is that the Hogan pins were inserted from the face side. Hence removing them go in the opposite direction (i.e. from the back of the club to the front). I don't know how much truth there is to this or whether it is consistent with all pinned irons. All I know is that following this approach, the pin comes out pretty easily.

The next step is removing the ferrule. I just cut it off with a knife. If you are a going to try to save the ferrule, I would work it down the shaft toward the grip and the slide the ferrule off once you have the shaft removed.

Removing the shaft, use, whatever tools you have. I have the GolfWorks vise which has a nice shaft removing jig - photo right. Especially with these older clubs, you might not even need to apply heat (that's the advantage of the right tool). If you have to apply heat, I would strongly recommend using a heat gun rather than using a torch which can cause some discoloration on the head (especially chrome). The less heat you have, the less fumes you will have too (melting epoxy or ferrule if you left it on).

The real dilemma to reshafting these clubs is whether to repin the club. Modern expoxy seems to hold up a lot better than the old stuff. In myexperience, the pin isn't necessary. If you are going to do it, I would drill the shaft first (with a drill press) to avoid damaging the hole in the hosel or the shaft (while you can't see it in the hosel). You might still be able to find the pins. I have heard of people using rivot material. In either case, you then have the task of grinding down the excess and polishing up the hosel. You might find relying on just the expoxy and covering the holes with a little "stick" weld epoxy much easier.

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Note: This thread is 3669 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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