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Posted
Im currently using some Callaway x-14's. If i was to make the switch to something like Titliest MB's, would i struggle like hell?

What are the main differences?

In a way i feel i could hit a blade iron better...
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Posted
No offense man, but the only thing we need less than another thread about blades versus cavity backs is more debate about average driving distances.

http://thesandtrap.com/forum/search.php?searchid=222756

Stretch.

"In the process of trial and error, our failed attempts are meant to destroy arrogance and provoke humility." -- Master Jin Kwon

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Posted
haha wooo another blade thread!!!!

No you would not, there is a little difference in forgivness but not alot. As long as you hit the ball alright you will be fine. Your avg miss hit is only around 3-4m difference.

Some anti blade people get real funny about this subject, just because they have some mental block and can't hit them. Don't worry about them.

As long as you like them thats all that matters!

Driver: 909D3 8.5* Diamana White Board X
3 Wood: MP 630 15* GRAFALLOY PROLAUNCH RED X
Hybrid: 909H 19* "Real" VooDoo X
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56* 10 Wedge Vr60* 06 Wedge: VrPutter: Custom Made.Golf Ball: TOUR B330SI am the greatest, I said that even before I knew I was....


Posted
Im currently using some Callaway x-14's. If i was to make the switch to something like Titliest MB's, would i struggle like hell?

You might.

Use the search. Could you explain why you feel you could hit a blade better?

Posted
You might.

I have never actually hit a blade, but i just get the feeling that hitting a thin bladed club down on the ball would be easyer than a fat forged cavity...?

Superlight 3.5 Bag
TM Superfast Driver
TM Superfast 3 Wood

Cleveland Hybore Hybrid
X-24 4-SW Irons
Ping Tour 54 - 62 WedgesOriginal Anser Putter Pro V1

Posted
It might be a good idea to actually hit some blades before you buy a set. No matter how cool you think they will look in your bag, they will do you no good if your swing can't handle them.

:tmade: 09 Burner
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Posted
The best bit of advice I can give you is find a single iron blade in a six or seven iron and use it at practice for a while. If you like it then try to find an old 4 or 3 iron and try it. It keeps your costs down and gives you a good feel for the clubs.

Posted
Im currently using some Callaway x-14's. If i was to make the switch to something like Titliest MB's, would i struggle like hell?

IMO with your hc it probably will be a bit of a stretch, but not impossible, well depending on how much you want it. I don't think you would see much difference with 7-pw, but the lower irons you will probably have to put in practice hours, especially with the long irons. With the mid and long irons you will notice a difference b/c they will require at least a decent golf swing.

Another option mite be to go with a combination set. That is to say cb's 3-7 or 8i and blades for the rest.Generally speaking the higher the loft the more forgiving the club,(there are a couple of other things that make a iron forgiving, but thats for another thread); thats why combination sets start blades at 7 or 8i. I have 2 sets of blades and I like to play them---when I'm play'n well. When I'm not, I get lots of practice with up & downs and mid/long irons to the green, sometimes its not very enjoyable. My gamers are MP 60/32's.

Posted
I have never actually hit a blade, but i just get the feeling that hitting a thin bladed club down on the ball would be easyer than a fat forged cavity...?

I think you should try an older players iron - not a new one necessarily since some of them, to be honest, are either over priced or overrated.

Check out some vintage Titleists (a few guys on this site can steer you in the right direction there), vintage Tommy Armour 845s (or 855s?), some '98 to '03 Ben Hogans. There are a lot of irons out there to try. A blade might inspire you to be a better player or it might make you want to quit altogether. It's quite a leap from an X14 to a Titleist MB just from a design standpoint. Basically, you might end up there anyway, but I'd suggest a more gradual (and less expensive) transition.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
No offense man, but the only thing we need less than another thread about blades versus cavity backs is more debate about average driving distances.

thank god

to the OP...hit the search button bro this topic has been beaten to death we have no idea if you can hit them...never seen your swing, never seen you play, have no idea what kind of ball striker you are go demo some if your horney for blades
"My swing is homemade - but I have perfect flaws!" - Me

Posted
...

Or another option (if you don't have really extreme fitting requirements) might be to borrow clubs from one of your buddies and use them under actual playing conditions for a long enough time to get fairly acclimated to them (say a week?). Might at least give you an idea if this is something you want to pursue further.

It's fairly common among the guys I play with. My MP-32 set has been on "loan" since 2008. I'm actually happy they are being played and enjoyed. He has a set of TaylorMade R7 clubs and wanted to try some players clubs. Personally I think he is a little cracked but for whatever reasons he is totally crazy about the Mizunos so as far as I'm concerned good for him.

Mike


Titleist 905T 10.5°, 5W Golfsmith SuperSteel 17°, 4W MacGregor Tourney laminate 21°, 3-P MacGregor Colokrom M85 reissue, Snake Eyes 54° and 58° wedge, Odyssey Dual Force 330 blade

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Note: This thread is 5553 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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