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Posted
how different are they?

what advantages does one have over the other?
taylormade.gif - Taylor Made R11 Driver, 9*
taylormade.gif - Burner 2.0" 4-AW Steel
vokey.gif - Vokey 56*, 60*, 64*
odyssey.gif - Odyssey ProType PT 82

titleist.gif - Pro-V1  taylormade.gif - TMX Stand Bag

Posted
I agree with the common advice to hit the most flexible shafts you can control. Higher trajectory and distance being the main reasons. If you hit shafts that are too stiff, it will be harder to get the proper trajectory. Adversely, if you swing a regular shaft too hard, you will have a very high ball and erratic shot patterns. You may hit it well and still be 10 yards off target. So generally, you get more control with stiffer shafts, but without the matching swing speed, you will have a low trajectory. They will just feel like shet as well. I had regular flex graphite in some Callaway Big Berthas. Last year got the X20's with project X 6.0 stiff shafts. My accuracy increased and I am hitting the ball plenty high. But I have the correct swing speed for them. My reg flex graphite was way to weak for me. Erratic shots and super high trajectory was the end result. The only way to do this properly is to be fit for a shaft, then go shopping. Many folks that should be hitting regular flex (especially with their irons) are buying stiff shafts for some reason. Makes no sense. Don't buy what your buddies use. Buy what will help you shoot lower scores. I drive the ball 300 yards with some regularity. Have used stiff and X stiff shafts in my driver. But my iron game was poor so I decided to take 2/3 swings all the time for control. I got the reg flex graphite big berthas back then. And it worked great for my game, scores went down. Then my iron game picked up and I was able to swing harder. Then I had to get some stiff steel shafts. Point being, let your game tell you what you need. Not some goober at the golf shop.

-Dan

Posted
I agree with the common advice to hit the most flexible shafts you can control. Higher trajectory and distance being the main reasons. If you hit shafts that are too stiff, it will be harder to get the proper trajectory. Adversely, if you swing a regular shaft too hard, you will have a very high ball and erratic shot patterns. You may hit it well and still be 10 yards off target. So generally, you get more control with stiffer shafts, but without the matching swing speed, you will have a low trajectory. They will just feel like shet as well. I had regular flex graphite in some Callaway Big Berthas. Last year got the X20's with project X 6.0 stiff shafts. My accuracy increased and I am hitting the ball plenty high. But I have the correct swing speed for them. My reg flex graphite was way to weak for me. Erratic shots and super high trajectory was the end result. The only way to do this properly is to be fit for a shaft, then go shopping. Many folks that should be hitting regular flex (especially with their irons) are buying stiff shafts for some reason. Makes no sense. Don't buy what your buddies use. Buy what will help you shoot lower scores. I drive the ball 300 yards with some regularity. Have used stiff and X stiff shafts in my driver. But my iron game was poor so I decided to take 2/3 swings all the time for control. I got the reg flex graphite big berthas back then. And it worked great for my game, scores went down. Then my iron game picked up and I was able to swing harder. Then I had to get some stiff steel shafts. Point being, let your game tell you what you need. Not some goober at the golf shop.

excellent info, thank you

I havent got my irons yet. Even though I put them in my signature, lol anyways. I live in the Yukon and there are no real golf shops. How can I get fitted? Or can I? I would assume, guessing wouldn't be reccomended.
taylormade.gif - Taylor Made R11 Driver, 9*
taylormade.gif - Burner 2.0" 4-AW Steel
vokey.gif - Vokey 56*, 60*, 64*
odyssey.gif - Odyssey ProType PT 82

titleist.gif - Pro-V1  taylormade.gif - TMX Stand Bag

Posted
While crude, most manufacturers have some fitting suggestions on their websites. I know Ping has one that is nice. I was there tonight getting some info on my wife's putter, then the suggestions they offer based on her height, arm length, etc.. Not in the Yukon, but we are working on Nantucket, no golf shop unless I fly 30 miles to the mainland. I am ordering her a custom putter, so I can appreciate your imposition. I would check out the Ping website and see what they suggest for length and lie. For swing speed, perhaps just share your yardages here. For example, driver-255, 5 iron- 180, 7 iron- 150, etc.. That may help give folks some idea. Unless you hit the ball pretty far, regular steel shafts might be a safe bet, especially if you are starting out. Many variables and this isn't ideal, but it is better than nothing.


-Dan

Posted
Some other things to consider besides shaft flex:

* Kickpoint, or flexpoint - This is confusing at first pass, but here's how it works: A high kickpoint means the shaft flexes higher toward the grip, which produces a lower trajectory. A low kickpoint means the shaft flexes lower toward the head, which produces a higher trajectory. Midkick produces medium trajectory.
Other variations:
+ Flighted shafts (see Project X, for example) give you more lift initially, but tend to flatten out - allow less height - as they approach peak trajectory.
+ KBS Tour - They bill themselves as "beyond kickpoints." Checkout their web site for details.

* Shaft weight - The heavier a shaft, the less clubhead speed you will generate. A heavier shaft will produce more drag, while a lighter shaft will produce less drag. BUT, if you have a shaft which is too light, this can lead to control problems and swinging too fast. Related to this, some golfers prefer slightly heavier shafts in their wedges to emphasize control over distance.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
What irons/shafts are currently in your bag? How far do you hit your irons? Popular choices in iron shafts are DG R300/S300/X100, Project X 5.0/5.5/6.0/6.5, and KBS Tour (90) R/S/XS. These are shafts that come stock on most of the retail irons but you have many other custom shafts options. There is another choice of Uniflex shaft that comes with a lot of the Callaway irons which play in between regular and stiff which might also be a good choice to you.

« Keith »


Posted
I'll go against the grain. Play the shaft you can control with a smooth controlled swing, but err on the stiffer side. When you're in the rough and need to walk on it, or when your amped up on the back nine, you don't want a shaft that's too whippy.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted

I just read on a site that if you are not sure about what shaft to get than its better to go with something that is softer and not stiff

any truth that?
What irons/shafts are currently in your bag? How far do you hit your irons?

I have some cheap clones I got off eBay. They have True Temper steel shafts and I have no clue what type they are.

And this will probably sound really noobish, but I have no clue how far I hit my irons. I am so inconsistent with them that I really never hit balls well at all. Just all over the place. It really sucks. I know I have an OK swing. But these clubs to me seem to be more bad luck than anything. Or maybe its me. But I truly believe a real set of clubs will get me on the right track.
taylormade.gif - Taylor Made R11 Driver, 9*
taylormade.gif - Burner 2.0" 4-AW Steel
vokey.gif - Vokey 56*, 60*, 64*
odyssey.gif - Odyssey ProType PT 82

titleist.gif - Pro-V1  taylormade.gif - TMX Stand Bag

Posted
There is also a big difference in weight and has a huge impact on the feel of clubs. I like a little little shaft personally.

And I'm sorry to break the news, clubs aren't the answer to consistancy. If you want new ones, get them, but it isn't going to make you a consistant iron player. From my experiences, I've found clubs have very little to do with being good. As long as you like them that is all that matters.

Brian


Posted
... From my experiences, I've found clubs have very little to do with being good. ...

Yes and no. Yes, you have to practice to become good. But no, clubs do play a part. For middle handicappers, you want clubs which will help - and also won't hurt - your game. Let's say you weigh 150 lbs. and have 70 mph. clubhead speed with your 5 iron, and have trouble getting your iron shots up. You want to avoid Callaway XPrototype irons with ProjectX 6.5 shafts. They don't fit your game.

... As long as you like them that is all that matters.

This makes sense, if you have comparison-hit several models. Go with the one you feel most comfortable with. When I got a driver fitting a couple of years ago, the HyperX Tour ended up tied with a Cleveland HiBore Gold on performance stats. I picked the HyperX because I liked the setup better, and also liked the XTour 3W.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 1 month later...
Posted
I was wonder the same thing about the differences in the two. I recently started using a regular flex set of iron when I was playing stiff. I have found that my shots go a lot higher and not at as far. I have also found that I am not able to work the ball as well with the regular flex. I think I will sell these new clubs and look for another set of stiff flex. I bought this clubs because I thought they were a good deal and I liked the look of the irons. I was thinking that there would not be much difference in the regular flex. I will not make that mistake again. Now I am out $400.00 for irons I don't like. Nike VR cavity

What's in my bag
SQ driver 9.5 degree
VR Irons 4-AW
White Ice #1
3 hybrid pro v1


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    • (Article appeared in the March 15, 2026 edition of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, p. 1) Dense fog covers the closed driving range at Ruth Park Golf Course in University City on Feb. 19, 2026. After University City attempted to use leftover dirt from Market at Olive building project to improve the driving range, complications arose and closed the range. ‘Free dirt’ proves costly for Ruth Park driving range By Nassim Benchaabane | Post-Dispatch // Photos by Liz Rymarev UNIVERSITY CITY — The dirt was supposed to be a gift. Developers hoping to bring a Target store to Olive Boulevard needed a place to dump thousands of truckloads of excavated dirt. University City offered to take the dirt at its popular golf course's driving range, in hopes it would fix long-standing erosion and stormwater runoff problems. The project was supposed to take three months.  The driving range at Ruth Park is still closed today. It's in worse condition than before. And it's on track to cost University City nearly $900,000 in lost revenue and future repairs. “The ‘free dirt’ and golf course improvements turned out to be not so free,” Darin Girdler, the city's parks director at the time, wrote in an internal memo in August. Records show the project was launched without a contract between the developer and the city, with no written plan for finishing the range after the dirt was dumped and graded, and without clear terms spelling out consequences if the job wasn't done correctly. Instead, city emails show, as the dirt sat there for months, and the erosion and runoff issues got worse, neither developers nor city officials took charge and solved the problems. University City did not make anyone available for an interview to explain how things went wrong. Former city manager Gregory Rose, Target developer Larry Chapman and excavation company Kolb Grading did not respond to requests for comment. Golfers and residents, meanwhile, have grown frustrated. 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By 2019, the golf course was successful enough that the city parceled it out of the budget as an "enterprise fund," along with other revenue generators like public parking garages and the city's waste collection program. Annual revenue grew to more than $320,000 by July 2024. But the driving range was also starting to show signs of wear and tear. It sloped downhill from Groby Road toward a wooded area. The irrigation was poor; water pooled at the north end. Erosion caused cracks in the earth that made it impossible for machines to sweep up and retrieve the balls. The city attempted fixes over the years, including in late 2022, when it closed the range for several months to install pipes meant to help drain stormwater. But by 2024, the range was still closing every Wednesday morning so that workers could retrieve balls by hand from the cracks in the ground. Then, that summer, the city thought it found a fix. 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    • I guess Arberg is now ARRRRRGBerg. Self destructing on the back nine.
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