Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5410 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

I played in a league at a local executive course when I was in my teens about 20 years ago, and can count on one hand the number of times I've played since then.  I recently got back into golf just a couple of months ago (early May), and I'm shooting in the 80's consistently.  Best round has been an 82, but I'm usually around 86-88.  I go to the range several times a week, and play a full 18 usually twice a week.  I've been using a set of "Icon" golf clubs that I bought from Play It Again Sports.  It was a new set, included bag/stand, driver, 3 wood, 5 hybrid, and 6-PW.  The whole set was $150.  I know people that have a single club that costs more than that.

I'm just curious if this is the right time to buy new clubs, or even if there is a "right" time.  Also, I'm about a 4 hour drive from a Golftec or Golf Galaxy where I can get a computerized fitting, and my local course has a very limited selection.  So it looks like I'll either have to make the drive to get a fitting, or order something online and hope it's right.

So what do you all think?  Buy something now?  Wait til next season?  Buy online?  Make the drive?

Thanks all, and good luck on the courses.


Posted

Depends what's important to you, there's 3 ways you can buy golf clubs and all will work in my experience:

- buy in high season current model clubs and know you are going to be paying full price.

- buy in around feb/march and buy last season models when shops are looking to clear the clubs for new models which most mfrs release in feb/mar, expect to save around 30-40% over what you would have paid but still know you are getting good clubs that are well fitted.

- try new clubs, see which you like, then look for used previous models in decent condition either last season or the season before, despite mfrs claims the models do not change much at all in feel or performance year on year. Budget to have those clubs re-fitted to your spec which in my experience will cost somewhere like this: $10 per club for regripping, $5 club for loft/lie changes, $5/shortening, $25/club reshafting for standard dynamic gold steel shafts considerably more for reshafting for high end graphite shafts. So worst case is around $45/club on irons likely to be a lot less if you take a standard or shorter fit and you buy with the shafts you want already fitted.

I took option 2 last year and spent $550 on brand new mizuno mp-52's custom fitted saving around $350 on full price (pound converted to dollars in my case). Never looked back completely happy with the irons, actually have hit the current mp-53 model a few times and prefer the mp-52 anyway. My plan for my next set of irons, when I get my hcap down a bit is option 3 and I already did the maths that if I can pick up a set of classic blades like mizuno mp-32 for around $120 then spend $100-$300 on getting them perfect for me I'll have breathed new life into an awesome iron set that is perfect fit for me.

Taylormade Burner Superfast TP 2010 9.5 - Matrix Ozik HD6 Stiff 44.5" (0.5" tipped, 1.5" butt trimmed reweighted D1)
Ping Rapture V2 3strong wood 13.5 - Diamana 63 g35t Stiff 42.5"
Cleveland Launcher DST 2hy 18* - Ultralite Diamana Red 74 Stiff 40.5"
Mizuno MP-52 3-PW standard loft/lie/length - Dynamic Gold S300
Titleist Vokey Spin Milled GW 52/8*
Titleist Vokey Spin Milled SW 56/14*
Spalding TPM-4 Putter (circa 1988)
Bridgestone B330RX balls.

 


Posted

Good advice, thanks!  I guess even more than this, I was asking how do I know it's time to upgrade and get some real clubs?  And, how much benefit will new clubs have on my game?  What kind of improvements have others seen when moving up in clubs?

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by SamW

Depends what's important to you, there's 3 ways you can buy golf clubs and all will work in my experience:

- buy in high season current model clubs and know you are going to be paying full price.

- buy in around feb/march and buy last season models when shops are looking to clear the clubs for new models which most mfrs release in feb/mar, expect to save around 30-40% over what you would have paid but still know you are getting good clubs that are well fitted.

- try new clubs, see which you like, then look for used previous models in decent condition either last season or the season before, despite mfrs claims the models do not change much at all in feel or performance year on year. Budget to have those clubs re-fitted to your spec which in my experience will cost somewhere like this: $10 per club for regripping, $5 club for loft/lie changes, $5/shortening, $25/club reshafting for standard dynamic gold steel shafts considerably more for reshafting for high end graphite shafts. So worst case is around $45/club on irons likely to be a lot less if you take a standard or shorter fit and you buy with the shafts you want already fitted.

I took option 2 last year and spent $550 on brand new mizuno mp-52's custom fitted saving around $350 on full price (pound converted to dollars in my case). Never looked back completely happy with the irons, actually have hit the current mp-53 model a few times and prefer the mp-52 anyway. My plan for my next set of irons, when I get my hcap down a bit is option 3 and I already did the maths that if I can pick up a set of classic blades like mizuno mp-32 for around $120 then spend $100-$300 on getting them perfect for me I'll have breathed new life into an awesome iron set that is perfect fit for me.




Posted

Can't add much to what Sam said as to different purchase approaches other than also going back 4-5 years on ebay or used bins and finding stuff. In these efforts you can sometimes get stuff for 10-20 cents on the dollar, ie 40-50 bucks for a once $400-450 driver.  A couple generations or so back in tech will be still better than what you have for about 20% of what the latest will cost you.

That said and to your question about when, golf clubs are tools to do a job. First off, on your 6-pw, is there about a 8-15 yard differential with some overlap between irons? Do your iron shots go generally straight?

Do the hybrids you have cover the gap between your shortest fairway wood and your longest iron?

Do you have clubs that you can use effectively to get on the green and close to the hole from 100 yards in?

How is the flight and directional consistency of your driver? Does it usually put you in a playable position?

Answer these questions and determine if equipment will answer or if more consistent swing is needed.

Don

In the bag:

Driver: PING 410 Plus 9 degrees, Alta CB55 S  Fairway: Callaway Rogue 3W PX Even Flow Blue 6.0; Hybrid: Titleist 818H1 21* PX Even Flow Blue 6.0;  Irons: Titleist 718 AP1 5-W2(53*) Shafts- TT AMT Red S300 ; Wedges Vokey SM8 56-10D Putter: Scotty Cameron 2016 Newport 2.5  Ball: Titleist AVX or 2021 ProV1

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 5410 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
    • Day 56 (4 May 26) - Worked on some ball-then-ground drills - going from P3 thru impact - with a slowed tempo, working to keep all parts in sync.   
    • Wordle 1,780 3/6 🟩⬜🟨🟨🟨 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,780 4/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 ⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟨🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.