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Left hand - Bowed at address, but flat at the top? And accept fade, but how to play it?

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Rouleur    5

I had a major issue with my last round, drive would start straight, then fade 30ft to the right into deep, unrecoverable OB. See my post under "how'd you play last".

Anyway, talked to a pro, saying my left wrist was cupped at the top. I went through some swings last night, and in order to go from a correct 'see 2 knuckle' grip which cups my left wrist, to a flat wrist at the top, I obviously can't keep my left wrist still, it must flatten through the backswing. I checked with my normal grip, and it feels like it doesn't move, but the wrist is really even more cupped at the top. "feel isn't real".

The only way I could easily get through the backswing to flat at the top, was to start with a flat left wrist at address which meant weaken the left hand grip such that my arms felt more like a V, inside of elbows pointing more outwards, the right hand resting on top but not over the left thumb.

Haven't hit a ball like that yet, but it seems a cause for even more aggressive fade/slice?

Any suggestions? Should you actually go from slight cupped at address to flat at the top and back down through flat?

Secondly, I read everywhere that hitting straight is a fools game, and you should learn your shape (fit and trim thank you very much). My shot shape is obviously a fade.

But then you read, if you slice/fade, aim right, don't aim left because that makes it worse. So, if I am playing a fade as my shot shape, how do I get the white dimpled thing in the middle of the long short mown green thing, without aiming more left? Do you aim more left with your shoulders, but close up your stance for a draw position?

Thanks for any help you can give me. I will post a swing when I can get time.

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shortstop20    10

There's nothing wrong with aiming left for a fade. Unless you're playing a pull fade, you'd have to aim left to hit your target.

People often recommend slicers/faders aim right in an attempt to get them to not swing over the top. Works for some people, doesn't for others.

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Rouleur    5

Thanks for the reply.

In case you are wondering wtf I am on about with the cupped wrist at address, check this pic out

See how bent the left wrist is, and I just want to check you have to straighten that out by the top of the back swing?

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Mordan    25
Originally Posted by Rouleur

I had a major issue with my last round, drive would start straight, then fade 30ft to the right into deep, unrecoverable OB. See my post under "how'd you play last".

If your ball does truly start straight and then fade, then you're delivering the clubface to the ball square. The ball will pretty much start off in the direction of your clubface after impact.

The ball will then curve away from your swing path. So your swing path is going left, so the ball curves right (into deep, unrecoverable OB).

The quickest fix for you is to aim more left and make the same swing. Aiming left can promote more of a fade in some golfers because they just swing more left rather than also aiming their club face more left. The greater the difference between swing path and clubface, the more curve.

Another fix would be to set up the same as you currently do, except close the clubface a bit. That will mean you'll hit a pull fade. The ball will start left of your target line and once you get used to how much you need to close the clubface, it will curve back to the middle. Because you will be aiming the clubface left (ie. closer to your swing path), this will also reduce the amount your shots curve.

The real fix is to stop swinging left, and do work on that the best thing you could do is to post your swing in the My Swing area for some of the knowledgable people around here to comment on.

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