Which wedges?

[dwade247]

So I have the option to buy either 1 vokey 54-11 wedge for 20 bucks in pretty good condition. Or 2 callaway (I believed vintage forged) wedges 54 -12 and 58 -10 for 15 bucks each, can't tell if they are rusty or just "vintage". Does it matter? Not completely sure about the bounce but I think any of them would be better than my current and only wedge which is 60* from Kmart.

What do you guys think I should go with?

[PirateJim]

Well... having seen none of them, and knowing nothing of your skills or how you approach wedge play, it is a bit hard to guess.  But assuming they aren't TOO vintage, I'd go with the two Callaways, mostly because I think a 54 and a 58 is more useful up close than a 54 alone, particularly if you have been getting along okay with the 60.  If you can, look at the condition of the grips and make sure they shafts are intact.  New grips would set you back the cost of the clubs, and a bent or badly rusted shaft pretty much makes them garbage.  If you could hit them before buying, that would be nice.

[LBlack14]

I'd go with 2 over 1. Grips can be done yourself for under 10 bucks and whoever said rusty or bent shafts make them garbage knows not of what they speak.

[dwade247]

Hit them all at the store before I bought and went with the 2 callaways over 1 vokey. Both clubs look to be in good shape. Shafts are straight with no rust and 1 of them still has a pretty good grip.

[WUTiger]

The Callaway XForged "vintage" has a non-chrome finish and was designed to "rust".

The two should work well; you might regrip both so they have the same model, thickness and age.

[dwade247]

The Callaway XForged "vintage" has a non-chrome finish and was designed to "rust".

The two should work well; you might regrip both so they have the same model, thickness and age.

That's kinda what I though. Thanks for the info. I probably will regrip them someday. I'm just not that great yet so the grip doesn't really bother or affect me much. Thanks for the advice tho

[WUTiger]

... I probably will regrip them someday. I'm just not that great yet so the grip doesn't really bother or affect me much. ...

Well, yes it does. Especially for your scoring wedges (54* and 58*), you want the same and thickness of grip. If one grip is thinned out and the other is full, you will tend to get more hand action on the thinned out one and greater likelihood of missing to the left (if you are R-handed).

Spend a few extra $$ for new grips (installation often cheap or free in winter). That way, you'll have consistent "handles" when you break in the wedge team.

[dwade247]

Well, yes it does. Especially for your scoring wedges (54* and 58*), you want the same and thickness of grip. If one grip is thinned out and the other is full, you will tend to get more hand action on the thinned out one and greater likelihood of missing to the left (if you are R-handed).

Spend a few extra $$ for new grips (installation often cheap or free in winter). That way, you'll have consistent "handles" when you break in the wedge team.

Ok, probably best to make sure my equipment at least gives me the best chance at getting better at this crazy game. Should I look for any specifics in the grips? Is there a difference between the cheaper and more expensive ones?

Thanks for the help, I am totally new to the whole golf equipment thing since I have only used a starter box set up till this point.

[WUTiger]

[dwade247]

Thanks for the suggestion

[geauxforbroke]

Should I look for any specifics in the grips? Is there a difference between the cheaper and more expensive ones?

Just look for something that feels good to you. There are plenty of quality grips for $5 or less. And as @WUTiger pointed out, it's best to be uniform with them if possible.