Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6703 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I would tend to agree with the guys saying 5 wood or 3 iron. I also agree with combining the two into a 3 hybrid. The other one that makes a ton of sense is the Lob Wedge. This is a club that can be very hard to hit with a big risk/reward potential. I have clubs in my bag that I take out when I get to the course depending on where I'm playing. Lately the 2 Hybrid has been in my garage. Right now I carry Driver, 3 Wood, 3 Hybrid, 4-GW and a 58* SW/LW plus a putter. That has me at 13. It gives me the flexibility to add whatever I need to match the conditions. There are courses that I play that depending on the tees, I may only use 7-8 clubs.
Driver: 9.5° 905R Stiff Aldila NV 65
3 Wood: 15.° Pro Trajectory 906F4 Stiff Aldila VS Proto Blue
Hybrid: 19.0° 503 H Stiff Dynamic Gold S400
Hybrid: 21.0° Edge C.F.T. Ti Stiff Aldila NVS
Irons: 775cb 4-GW w/S300 Sand Wedge: Vokey 58° Puttter: Laguna Mid-Slant Pro PlatinumBall: ProV1Bag: Li...

Posted
thx yall

Some of the PWs which come with modern sets are pretty low loft..like 44 to 46 degrees. You may want to check what kind of gap you have between your 53 and your PW. It does not make sense to have 3 degree gaps in your strongest lofted clubs and then a gap of 7 or 8 degrees in the middle.

In the bag:
905R 9.5* Fujikura Speeder S
X 15* Fujikura R
X 19* Fujikura S
4-P MP-14 TT DGS300 53* 588 Gunmetal MP series 56-14 TT wedge MP-R 60-09 Rifle SpinnerDFX Two ball Pro V1


Posted
I think you should combine the 5 wood and 3 iron to a 3 hybrid, easier to hit, and will probably work better for you.
In My Bag:
Driver: Cobra F Speed 10.5°, Aldila NV 55g Regular
3 Wood: Cobra F Speed 15°, Aldila NV 55g Regular
Irons: Cobra 2300 I/M 3-PW
Wedge: Cobra M 54°Putter: Yes! SophiaBall: TaylorMade TP Red

Posted
since i got my new used irons i have 15 clubs in my bag

I like this idea below.

I think you should combine the 5 wood and 3 iron to a 3 hybrid, easier to hit, and will probably work better for you.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
since i got my new used irons i have 15 clubs in my bag

I'd drop the 3 iron and the 5 wood, and get a niceADAMS Tight Lies 3 hybrid....BINGO!

Rynofskie

In My Well-Used Highlander Bag:

Driver:Redline RPM 9.5* Driver - TourLaunch Blue Shaft Rescue: "The Ripper" wal-mart special 3HybridIrons: ADAMS GT500 Undercut Widesole 4-LWPutter: Ray Cook custom mallet putterGuns don't kill people - the proper application of sight alignment, target...

Posted
OOps.....somebody already posted that. Sorry!
Rynofskie

In My Well-Used Highlander Bag:

Driver:Redline RPM 9.5* Driver - TourLaunch Blue Shaft Rescue: "The Ripper" wal-mart special 3HybridIrons: ADAMS GT500 Undercut Widesole 4-LWPutter: Ray Cook custom mallet putterGuns don't kill people - the proper application of sight alignment, target...

Posted
Definitely check the lofts on your wedges.

I used to have the same problem, and finally went with a 58 degree lob wedge. Easier to consistently hit than the 60, just as easy out of the bunker. My next wedge is a 52, and then my PW is a 47 degree.

As I get better though, I may do a 54/60 combo with my next two wedges, then again maybe not :)

Also definitely look at your 5w/3i/4i. Figure out what you hit all 3 of them, and maybe look at 2 hybrids to replace the 3 that fill in the gaps. Or maybe just 1 hybrid that replaces your 5w/3i.
Driver: TM R7 SuperQuad 9.5*, RE*AX Stiff
3 Wood: TM R7 TP, 13*, Fujikura Stiff

Hybrids: TM Rescue Dual TPs 2, 3, and 4, Mitsubishi Diamana Stiff
Irons: 2-PW TM R7 TP, DG S300Gap Wedge: Callaway X-Tour 52*Lob Wedge: Callway X-Tour 58* PM GrindPutter: Odyssey White Steel #5Ball: Callaway HX-Tour2, 3,...

Note: This thread is 6703 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 470 - 2026-01-13 Got some work in while some players were using the sim, so I had to stick around. 🙂 Good thing too, since… I hadn't yet practiced today until about 6:45 tonight. 😛 
    • That's not quite the same thing as what some people messaged me today.
    • Day 152 1-12 More reps bowing wrists in downswing. Still pausing at the top. Making sure to get to lead side and getting the ball to go left. Slow progress is better than no progress.  
    • Yea, if I were to make a post arguing against the heat map concept, citing some recent robot testing would be my first point. The heat map concept is what I find interesting, more on that below. The robot testing I have looked at, including the one you linked, do discreet point testing then provide that discrete data in various forms. Which as you said is old as the hills, if you know of any other heat map concept type testing, I would be interested in links to that though! No, and I did say in my first post "if this heat map data is valid and reliable" meaning I have my reservations as well. Heck beyond reservations. I have some fairly strong suspicions there are flaws. But all I have are hunches and guesses, if anyone has data to share, I would be interested to see it.  My background is I quit golfing about 9 years ago and have been toying with the idea of returning. So far that has been limited to a dozen range sessions in late Summer through Fall when the range closed. Then primarily hitting foam balls indoors using a swing speed monitor as feedback. Between the range closing and the snow flying I did buy an R10 and hit a few balls into a backyard net. The heat map concept is a graphical representation of efficiency (smash factor) loss mapped onto the face of the club. As I understand it to make the representation agnostic to swing speed or other golfer specific swing characteristics. It is more a graphical tool not a data tool. The areas are labeled numerically in discrete 1% increments while the raw data is changing at ~0.0017%/mm and these changes are represented as subtle changes in color across those discrete areas. The only data we care about in terms of the heat map is the 1.3 to 1.24 SF loss and where was the strike location on the face - 16mm heal and 5mm low. From the video the SF loss is 4.6% looking up 16mm heal and 5mm low on the heat map it is on the edge of where the map changes from 3% loss to 4%. For that data point in the video, 16mm heal, 5mm low, 71.3 mph swing speed (reference was 71.4 mph), the distance loss was 7.2% or 9 yards, 125 reference distance down to 116. However, distance loss is not part of a heat map discussion. Distance loss will be specific to the golfers swing characteristics not the club. What I was trying to convey was that I do not have enough information to determine good or bad. Are the two systems referencing strike location the same? How accurate are the two systems in measuring even if they are referencing from the same location? What variation might have been introduced by the club delivery on the shot I picked vs the reference set of shots? However, based on the data I do have and making some assumptions and guesses the results seem ok, within reason, a good place to start from and possibly refine. I do not see what is wrong with 70mph 7 iron, although that is one of my other areas of questioning. The title of the video has slow swing speed in all caps, and it seems like the videos I watch define 7i slow, medium, and fast as 70, 80, and 90. The whole question of mid iron swing speed and the implications for a players game and equipment choices is of interest to me as (according to my swing speed meter) over my ~decade break I lost 30mph swing speed on mine.
    • Maxfli, Maltby, Golfworks, all under the Dicks/Golf Galaxy umbrella... it's all a bit confounding. Looking at the pictures, they all look very, very similar in their design. I suspect they're the same club, manufactured in the same factory in China, just with different badging.  The whacky pricing structure has soured me, so I'll just cool my heels a bit. The new Mizuno's will be available to test very soon. I'm in no rush.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.