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Posted
I am currently using Callaway X-18 irons with dynamic gold s300 shafts. I can move the ball left and right decently with these (left is easier than right), but I can not control the trajectory at all. Every shot wants to go high regardless of ball position, etc.

My question is this: Would a set of "better player's irons" like the r7 tp or titleist 755 help with this? Or is this more to do with my swing?

thanks in advance for the help!
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
I think that at this stage in the game (with an 18 handicap), you would probably want to stick with the game improvement technology that the X18 has, and not try to move to a players iron just yet.

Don't take it that I'm ragging on your game......I'm right there with you. The G5's that I play also have a "High Launch" tendency, and I had to adjust my swing and ball position a good bit when I wanted to hit a low screamer instead of a regular shot....much more-so than I had to do with the Ben Hogans that I played prior to the G5 purchase.

In My Bag

Driver: 907 D1 10.5 Regular flex
3 Wood: R7 Steel
Hybrid: Rescue Dual 19Hybrid: Rescue Dual 225-GW: G5Wedge: Vokey Spin Milled 54Wedge: Vokey Spin Milled 58Putter: White Hot 2-ballBall: Mojo


Posted
The only other thing I can mention is that you should make sure they fit you properly. Sounds like it could be a shaft issue.

Driver: SUMO 5000 8.5* w/ Aldila Proto-65 X 45.5"
3-wood: SQ w/ Diamana 83 X +1"
Hybrid: SuMo 2h w/ Project X +1"
Irons: MP-33 1-PW w/ TT X100 Sensicore +1"
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 54 + 60 +1"Putter: Red X 34"Me: 6'3" 220lbs. - 0-4 Handicap, depending on how much I work ;); NJCAA All-American,...


Posted
Don't take it that I'm ragging on your game......

No offense taken. I'm not planning on buying anything until my ballstriking is a little more consistent.

I'm just trying to figure out if trajectory is significantly easier to control with player's cavities than with the game improvement clubs I'm using.
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
Just take more club, choke down a little and swing a little easier.

There is no rule that says just because you can hit 150 with your 8i, you have to use your 8i. You can use your 7i or 6i to get the same distance, probably more accurately because with a lower ball flight it is easier to control the distance, the wind doesn't effect it as much.

Posted
I am currently using Callaway X-18 irons with dynamic gold s300 shafts. I can move the ball left and right decently with these (left is easier than right), but I can not control the trajectory at all. Every shot wants to go high regardless of ball position, etc.

Yes. "Player's" irons have less weight in the sole, which means they give you less assistance in getting the ball up in the air.

That isn't to say that it isn't an issue with your swing, but yes, player's irons will be easier to manipulate trajectory with.

Cleveland Launcher Comp, 9.5* stiff
TaylorMade V-Steel, T/S stiff
Cleveland Halo, 19* stiff
Mizuno MP-32, stiff
Cleveland 588 Gunmetal, 51*Cleveland 588 DSG RTG, 56*Scotty Cameron Newport II


Posted
I used to be a 3 handicap and I was playing Mizuno MP-14 blades. About a year ago, I switched to the TaylorMade HT irons (high trajectory) because I didn't play as much and I wanted a more foregiving club. Well, I found it and I improved my ball striking in the process.

Long story short, I can still move the ball around fairly well with my new clubs.

Posted
Just take more club, choke down a little and swing a little easier.

Good point. I have started doing this more...I just need to learn how far I hit different clubs.

I guess my main complaint is that even when I choke down and swing easy, it goes a bit higher than i expect. Before I got the X-18's, I had an old set of Hogan Apex Plus irons. With those clubs I noticed a definite difference in trajectory depending on ball position and swing type. I like the forgiveness my current clubs offer for now, but I do miss the ability to hit a low spinny 8 iron.
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
Good point. I have started doing this more...

Just be careful - weird things can happen doing this. You're generally better off hitting an aggressive, full shot.

Cleveland Launcher Comp, 9.5* stiff
TaylorMade V-Steel, T/S stiff
Cleveland Halo, 19* stiff
Mizuno MP-32, stiff
Cleveland 588 Gunmetal, 51*Cleveland 588 DSG RTG, 56*Scotty Cameron Newport II


Posted
Please do not take this as I am some elitist scratch golfer, but i have to ask. As an 18 or even a 10 handicap how much do you think you need to work the ball anyway. I know when I was at that handicap I was just trying to make solid contact and hit it the right general direction the right distance. Far from my mind was "working" the golf ball.

I play golf with several double digit golfers and I know they are the same. The last thing they need to worry about is hitting a cut or a draw into the green. All they need to do is hit it on the green period. I mean they average like 6 greens a round.

Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Please do not take this as I am some elitist scratch golfer, but i have to ask. As an 18 or even a 10 handicap how much do you think you need to work the ball anyway. I know when I was at that handicap I was just trying to make solid contact and hit it the right general direction the right distance. Far from my mind was "working" the golf ball.

Danny,

I differ from your point of view. Every now and then during a round, I play one or two worked balls - fades and draws which pay for my entire round. The happiness I get out of it is absolutely priceless. I also realize that it is the long route to making consistent progress handicap-wise. Still the temptation is too great especially after you know you can do it.

In the bag:
905R 9.5* Fujikura Speeder S
X 15* Fujikura R
X 19* Fujikura S
4-P MP-14 TT DGS300 53* 588 Gunmetal MP series 56-14 TT wedge MP-R 60-09 Rifle SpinnerDFX Two ball Pro V1


Posted
Please do not take this as I am some elitist scratch golfer, but i have to ask. As an 18 or even a 10 handicap how much do you think you need to work the ball anyway. I know when I was at that handicap I was just trying to make solid contact and hit it the right general direction the right distance. Far from my mind was "working" the golf ball.

I understand and appreciate your input, but the truth is iron play is the least of the reasons i am an 18. I have spent literally the last 8 months working almost exclusively on my ballstriking. By no means am I claiming that I'm a terrific iron player, but it is the strength of my game.

Usually, I can keep my tee shots near the fairway, but I typically play on tree lined courses here in the hills of Tennessee so I hit more than my fair share into the woods. If I manage to hit my tee shot into the fairway, I like my chances of hitting the green with any full shot 7 iron - wedge. Which brings me to my short game: it is deplorable. Pitching: i am lucky to hit the green from 50 in. Chipping: I am lucky to be within 12 ft of the hole. This puts tremendous pressure on my putting (which is no better). Last week I played a 9 hole round with 28 putts...and shot a 49. Factor in a cpl of totally duffed pitches and i figure if my short game was even decent i should have shot closer to 37 (course is par 35 with 2 par 3s and 1 par 5 - ridiculously easy) My point is that I need my iron shots to be as close to the green as I can possibly get them...this usually involves a few shots per round where i move it a few yards left or right. sorry for the long-winded post
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
I understand and appreciate your input, but the truth is iron play is the least of the reasons i am an 18. I have spent literally the last 8 months working almost exclusively on my ballstriking. By no means am I claiming that I'm a terrific iron player, but it is the strength of my game.

You sound like me.

Last Sunday afternoon I played a similar game. My front-9 was pretty poor: 53 (we started late in the afternoon, I hadn't warmed-up and I was rushing due to some guys in a buggy behind us, but that's another story). The back-9 was where I got myself out of trouble...only to get myself back into trouble with chipping and putting. My driver and 3-wood were setting me up with nice 9, PW and SW shots onto the green for 3 pars and a birdie. At the 4th hole on the back-nine I'd already hit the 4 GIR. Where I wrecked my card was with chipping from 20yds in....just comical. I could have got anywhere from a 37-40 and instead hit 2 bogeys and 3 triple -bogeys for a 47....all down to horrendous greenside chips and terrible putting. Funnily enough, every bunker I landed in (5 in total) I got out of with total ease and landed on the green nicely.
TaylorMade R9 460 9.5°
TaylorMade R9 13°
TaylorMade RAC TP MB 3-PW
TaylorMade RAC TP 54°.10 / 58°.10
Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2

Posted
Where I wrecked my card was with chipping from 20yds in....just comical. I could have got anywhere from a 37-40 and instead hit 2 bogeys and 3

Yeah, this happens to me far too often. My example was extreme (I normally miss more greens and take fewer putts), but chipping is easily the worst aspect of my game.

A few months ago iron play was my biggest weakness. So, I decided to turn my greatest weakness into my greatest strength. Looks like it's way past time to do that again and focus like 90% of my practice on the short game.
Callaway FT-9 Tour I-mix 9.5° Driver (Fujikura Zcom Pro 65 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 15° 3w (Exsar FS2 stiff)
Bridgestone J36 19° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro 23° Hybrid (Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff)
Adams Idea Pro Forged 5-pw Irons (DG Black Gold stiff)Nike SV Tour Black Satin...

Posted
Thanks for the answers. I just ask because even at a 0 handicap I try my best to not have to work the ball. At my home course there are several holes where you have to move your teeball right or left but if I have to work an iron shot that means that I have hit a bad tee shot and there's something in my way. Of course I have to control trajectory often but really and truly I will always take that full iron shot into the green that I don't have to think about. Call me a simpleton, some do, but I try to just keep it simple and hit as many straight shots as possible.

Danny    In my :ping: Hoofer Tour golf bag on my :clicgear: 8.0 Cart

Driver:   :pxg: 0311 Gen 5  X-Stiff.                        Irons:  :callaway: 4-PW APEX TCB Irons 
3 Wood: :callaway: Mavrik SZ Rogue X-Stiff                            Nippon Pro Modus 130 X-Stiff
3 Hybrid: :callaway: Mavrik Pro KBS Tour Proto X   Wedges: :vokey:  50°, 54°, 60° 
Putter: :odyssey:  2-Ball Ten Arm Lock        Ball: :titleist: ProV 1

 

 

 

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Just be careful - weird things can happen doing this. You're generally better off hitting an aggressive, full shot.

Agreed, especially if you're in a tournament atmosphere, or gambling, and you're all jacked up around the 15th, 16th hole..

I was leading a college tournament by 3 going into the final round, but didn't know what other people were doing. Got nervous and jacked a 5-iron over the green and OB around the 14th from 220 out. Was the weirdest thing ever. What I'm saying is, had I played my normal 220 club, which would have been a 2 or 3 iron, and tried to swing easy, I probably would have been no better off.

Driver: SUMO 5000 8.5* w/ Aldila Proto-65 X 45.5"
3-wood: SQ w/ Diamana 83 X +1"
Hybrid: SuMo 2h w/ Project X +1"
Irons: MP-33 1-PW w/ TT X100 Sensicore +1"
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 54 + 60 +1"Putter: Red X 34"Me: 6'3" 220lbs. - 0-4 Handicap, depending on how much I work ;); NJCAA All-American,...


Posted
Thanks for the answers. I just ask because even at a 0 handicap I try my best to not have to work the ball. At my home course there are several holes where you have to move your teeball right or left but if I have to work an iron shot that means that I have hit a bad tee shot and there's something in my way. Of course I have to control trajectory often but really and truly I will always take that full iron shot into the green that I don't have to think about. Call me a simpleton, some do, but I try to just keep it simple and hit as many straight shots as possible.

You hit the nail on the head there. I have to avoid that tree now because of my errant tee shot. It is never by design. Unfortunately my driver only knows slice 20% fade 40% draw! 10% and hook-skyhook-duckhook 30%. Only when all the planets align do I hit one straight with the big dog.

In the bag:
905R 9.5* Fujikura Speeder S
X 15* Fujikura R
X 19* Fujikura S
4-P MP-14 TT DGS300 53* 588 Gunmetal MP series 56-14 TT wedge MP-R 60-09 Rifle SpinnerDFX Two ball Pro V1


Posted
You sound like me.

I understand and appreciate your input, but the truth is iron play is the least of the reasons i am an 18. I have spent literally the last 8 months working almost exclusively on my ballstriking. By no means am I claiming that I'm a terrific iron player, but it is the strength of my game.

I am not going to preach to you to work on your short game because you both probably already know that.

But I will tell you this, learn to play the hole backwards, being better at golf in skills closer to the hole will automatically make your skills farther away from the hole better. That is to say that if you are a good putter, that will make you better at your shortgame, being good around the green will make you better with your irons and approach shots, which in turn will make you better with your driver without you even trying to be better. A one inch putt counts the same on the scorecard as a 400yrd drive. We all like to and want to hit the long ball, me included but here is something to think about, they have long drive contests but they don't have long putting contests? Is it because it would be too boring to watch, well maybe but in fact they do, each weekend the PGA tour is basically a 4 day long putting contest. Ultimately the winner is crowned because of an up and down, a long putt or some other shot around or on the green. Was the preaching :P

Note: This thread is 6591 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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