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Posted
I am in the market for a new driver. I really like the D2, but a guy at the Golf Galaxy by me said that a driver head is a driver head. Besides cobra who mills their driver heads. You should pick a head that suits you visually and audibly, and then put your money into a nice shaft. How true is this?? I play with a Speeder shaft right now, and from what i have heard its a pretty good shaft. I am interested in these Diamana shafts, I have heard they perform well... Does anyone have any advice?

Hi-bore - 8.5* w/ 77g UST ProForce v2 stiff

PT- 21* x100 shaft

Ta3- Form Forged s300 shaftsVokey 52* 56*- Red X2 center shafted 33" ProV1x- High Numbers only (5's)


Posted
I am in the market for a new driver. I really like the D2, but a guy at the Golf Galaxy by me said that a driver head is a driver head. Besides cobra who mills their driver heads. You should pick a head that suits you visually and audibly, and then put your money into a nice shaft. How true is this?? I play with a Speeder shaft right now, and from what i have heard its a pretty good shaft. I am interested in these Diamana shafts, I have heard they perform well... Does anyone have any advice?

I disagree:

The shaft's (on any club) sole purpose is > to allow the player to utilise the club the way it was intended to be used. If the correct shaft is fitted, it can makes the difference. You can have a new T'Made R8 club, but if your shaft isn't right, it becomes a $80 knock-off. As they say: the shaft is half the club.
Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...

Posted
I think the shaft is the most important part

1. The vast majority of OEM's have done lots of research and testing on their product and would not release too much "garbage." Thus, the differences between most comparable driver heads is NOT a bigger factor than shaft selection. Although some may stand out more than others performance-wise, you are looking at mostly cosmetic, feel, and sound differences.
2. The shafts dictates so much about the result. With the wrong shaft, you can lose distance, lose control, have a ballooning flight, have line drives, have way too much spin, have too little spin, etc etc.

If it came down to it, I would rather pick a shaft that suits my swing and have a randomly selected head put on it VERSUS a head that i chose with a randomly selected shaft on it.

XTD Pro - 9.5* - GD YSQ
GS Tour - 15* -GD Red Ice
Rescue TP - 17* - Fujikura TP
Idea Pro Gold - 20* - Mitsubishi JavlnFX
MP-30, 4-PW - Standard Lofts / 2* flat - TT DG RAC Z TP (54*/10*) X-Forged (60*/10*)Scotty Cameron TeI3 - 35"


Posted
I think the shaft is the most important part

very good call. well said.

Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...

Posted

It's funny that the guy said, "You should pick a head that suits you visually and audibly" and didn't not mention anything about performance. This is, however, only half true. Look at driver's head nowadays and notice their shapes, although most have the same slight resemblances (pear-shaped) but know the fact that manufacturers put a lot into research to come up with different mix of materials, welding, inserts, etc to enhance the driver's head performance alone.

Moreover, square shaped driver and triangle shaped driver was introduced few years ago to be more forgiving than the traditional drivers. Although most don't like them, I'm pretty much sure the untraditional shapes aren't here just for variations. Basically every driver head has their own unique characteristics (launch angle, spin, etc) and that translates into performance for different kind of golfers. Meaning a pro may not able to maximize his distance, accuracy, etc using beginner's driver head and vice versa.

Thus, I believe driver's head also plays a role in overall performance not just shaft alone. While to me shaft is on another page just as important. But if put together correctly they make a really great book, if you know what I mean.

What's in the bag:
Driver: r7 SuperQuad 10.5° ~ UST Proforce V2 65g Regular
Wood: 906F4 18.5° ~ Aldila VS Proto 80g Stiff
Irons: MP-60 3-PW ~ True Temper Tour Concept S3
Wedges: Vokey Oil Can 252.08, SM56.10 & SM60.08Putter: Marxman Mallet 33"

Posted
Of course the head is important, but the shaft does almost everything to your golf shot, shaft is key in your Driver, 3 Wood, Irons, Wedges and also putter.

In my Ping UCLAN Team Bag

Nike Sasqautch 9.5 - V2 Stiff
Cleveland HiBore 15 - V2 Stiff
Ben Hogan Apex FTX, 2 - PW - Dynamic Gold StiffNike SV Tour 52, 58 - Dynamic Golf StiffYes Golf Callie - 33 inchesBall - Srixon Z star X


Posted
If the shaft wasn't that important, why is every major manufacturer scrambling to make use of the USGA (and R&A; I believe) ruling allowing the use of adjusting the shaft in a club head. Nike will have a retail model of their club fitting system by the end of the summer. As I heard on a Podcast with the head of R&D; from UST, shafts are one of the fastest developing technologies in the game, no longer is it just a choice of steel or graphite.

As another poster said "Shafts are just half the club."

Posted
Driver heads are important, but just not as important as the shaft selection.
For one, driver heads now come with a closed or draw face, some come with an open face, and some come with a straight face. Those are important things to know.
How well do you know your swing? If you swing with a 2* open clubface at impact and want to straighten out your flight then the 2* closed or draw face would be a good choice. Also, heads come in different degrees of loft. Should you get a 9* or a 10.5* loft?
So, if you are serious about your driver selection I would recommend swinging at a fitter who has a vector analysis machine that can determine club head speed, launch angle at impact, carry distance, and ball spin. You would be surprised at the number of golfers using too little loft in their drivers.
The shaft is the other part of the equation. The shaft will determine how the club feels. It also helps with the trajectory and dispersion. If you have a 4.5* torque and you are spraying the ball everywhere then a 3.5* or lower may be your ideal torque. Shaft weight, shaft length, flex, kick point, and swingweight are all very important in a shaft selection.
Maybe more than you wanted to know or bored you with something you already knew. Sorry.

Ping hoofer bag Ping G15 10.5* Driver, stock reg shaft Ping G15 3 metal, Aldila 75g Stiff shaft Ping G15 5 metal, Aldila 75g Stiff shaft Mizuno MP 69 3-PW irons, DG S300 shafts Mizuno MP R12 black nickel 52* and 56* gap and sand wedges, DG spinner W+ shafts Mizuno 20* FLiHi Clk hybrids, Project X 5.5 shaft 25 year old Bulls Eye putter, 33" or Ping Anser 2 Scottsdale 34" First round of golf was in 1963 at age 10. Best round -1. 2 Holes-In-One.


Posted
Driver heads are important, but just not as important as the shaft selection.

Wow... I could not have said that better myself! The only thing I have to add is "The shaft is the engine of the golf club", you want a shaft that WORKS FOR YOU. Don't get caught up in all the hype about COST. Just because a shaft costs $400.00 does not mean it will perform "for you". Use the technology out there and get fitted correctly, that's what the tour players do!

Note: This thread is 6552 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. 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Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. 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    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
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