How to tip trim steel shaft for driver?

[Andymanvif]

Hi.

Having an old Ping G10 460cc driver head lying around, I thought I would try to install a new shaft. After considering multiple shafts, I decided to experiment with a steel shaft for the first time in my life (with the driver), due to price and curiosity :)

The trimming instruction for the shaft reads:

A. For M1 metal woods add 1 1/2" tip trimming, for M2 metal woods add 1" tip trimming, for blind bore add 1/2" tip trimming, for through bore do not add to tip trimming. (Applies only to True Temper Dynamic Gold wood shafts)

 

Not knowing what M1, M2 and bores are, and not being able to  figure it out using google, I hope there's some help here :)

Does anybody know how much to tip trim to fit the G10, or how I can find out on my own?

Any help is truly appreciated, thanks! 

[Piz]

By bore they mean bore depth.  A thru-bore trim simply adds that portion of the shaft that wouldn't be there otherwise.  The important dimension is first step to heel; regardless of the bore depth.  The heel is, nowadays, an imaginary point of intersection between the center-line of the shaft and the sole of the club.  Working backwards from there; you can determine what, if any, modifications are necessary.  A club with a bore depth of 1 and 1/8th would require less trimming than a club with a bore depth of 7/8ths...head weight being equal.  The extra 1/4 inch is buried in the bottom of the hosel and does not alter the flex profile.  Ralph Maltby's books are an excellent resource.

[1badbadger]

I know this is a spare driver, and you're wanting to do this as an experiment, which I'm usually all for, but I really don't think this will work.  I think it will be very heavy, it will feel bad and probably sound bad too.  The modern titanium drivers (I know the G10 is a little older, but still...) just don't work well with steel shafts.