rudygu

Yeah, it's over the top, cheesy, and contrived...and I can't help but like it.

I've always had a tough time coming up with names quickly. At some point back in the mid 90's I was struggling to come up with a Madden team name or something and my cousin said "Hand me your controller!" and proceeded to enter the name Rudygu for me. I've used it for everything since that moment. No, Rudy is not my real name.

I really doubt Haney suddenly decided to drop Tiger, but anything is possible, I guess. Classy move by Tiger to let him keep his dignity if indeed Hank was fired. Foley seems to be the logical choice. If he could get Tiger driving the ball anywhere near as well as Hunter Mahan the rest of the Tour is in dire straits.

I signed up. Looks really nice so far...I like the idea of Lan Sync as well. I like to store all my photos on one pc and edit select ones with another...this could really help streamline that.

Thanks! This really clicked for me. I've just started changing over to S&T; in earnest and this really helps me feel like I'm generating a good coil in my backswing without loading on my right leg. I've struggled with dragging the clubhead back and flipping it too inside while swaying over to my right side...something I was hoping to fix with S&T.; With this advice (I hate the word "tip") I get the sensation of keeping my hands in without the flip.

I think it's pretty obvious that Tiger should ditch Haney. Comparing pre-Haney to post-Haney bears this out, imo. But, even if his stats were identical I would think he should fire him... How long do you need to keep trying the same swing while spraying drives all over the course? There have been no signs that his driving is getting better. It's clearly holding him back. Why not try to find someone that can help fix it?

Really? I like Phil more, but come on...

A pistol cleaning rod with a brush attachment would do it. .45 caliber should be big enough to get the job done.

I think offset is more about shifting the CG of the club. The offset moves the CG back a bit and helps to hit the ball higher as a result. The club will close a little bit more due to the offset, but it's not a huge factor. According to the numbers posted earlier for the Titleist clubs, the AP1 3i is .245" and the MB is .125...I doubt the clubface is going to rotate drastically in that .12". I'd say the real reason so many offset clubs are prone to hook is simply that those clubheads are often weighted to produce a draw bias. That being said, I absolutely hate the look of offset at address and avoid them at all costs :P

Yeah, he did again last night. Right at the end of the show he suggested the old method of lining up open/closed to the target and aiming the clubface at the target for a fade/draw. As evidence that his method worked he pointed at R/L spin indications on his flight simulator...Well, of course that method will produce a fade or draw. But, if executed like he suggested, the ball would launch at the target and then fade or draw away from it.

I prefer using an air compressor as well (and anxiously await your review of the PURE grips).

If you have access to a vise it's easy. You'll need some grip tape (double-sided masking tape), grip solvent (mineral spirits works well too) and a utility knife to cut off the old grips - just be careful not to cut into a graphite shaft. Detailed step-by-step instructions are readily availale online, but I'll sum up the process: 1. Remove the old grips and tape from the clubs 2. Wrap the double sided tape around the butt of the shaft - enough to cover the length of the grip 3. Apply solvent to the inside of the grip and onto the tape - Dont be stingy with it! 4. Align the grip how you want it and smmothly slide it down the shaft until it's completely on. Once you start, don't stop until it's on all the way. You can fine tune the alignment after it's on, but not for long. 5. Allow the solvent to dry a few hours before swinging the clubs

I downloaded and used the trial version of the Golf Logix app for iPhone today. To see a satellite photo of the hole you just tap the little icon of the globe in the lower right corner of the screen that shows the distances. You can also tap any spot on that photo to get the distance from your current position to that point. I have to say I was really impressed with the app. It was very overcast and stormed intermittently during our round, but it was always able to give an accurate yardage. I didn't have a laser range finder to really judge it with, but I checked it against course markers on pretty much every hole. It was always more accurate than I could estimated on my own. I've read several complaints about the battery usage, but have to say I did not experience any issues. I started the round at 100% and was at 84% after 18 holes.

Pete, if you're interested I'll sell you mine for a good price...I'll send a pm with more details.

You can for practice rounds, etc. while you're tinkering with it to get it all figured out, but I'm pretty sure it's against the rules of golf to alter it during a round. So don't do it during an official handicap round or tournament... I have one of these and like it very much - just replaced it because I don't love the Fujikura Fit-on E-360 shaft that came on mine. It looks great and sets up square - no closed face. Feels and sounds very solid at impact. The adjustable weights are nice. They won't make a drastic change in ball flight like Taylor Made claims theirs do, but they do make noticeable changes.

Southern style...Cold, sweet Luzianne. I'll drink it plain, with a lemon wedge, or mixed 50/50 with pineapple-orange juice. Can't get enough of the stuff.

Camilo Villegas is listed as Cobra Pro CB, but the picture is of the Pro MB.

I really like mine. They've been comfortable from the first time I wore them - practically no breaking-in.

It shouldn't be hard. The extension will be a piece of steel or plastic tube with a tapered end that slides a few inches into the putter shaft and was epoxied in place. It will be obvious where the the joint is. If it's steel, the swingweight will change a good bit when it's removed...if it's plastic, then not so much. If you really want to restore the putter to it's original factory swingweight and it was extended with steel tube, you'll have to use a torch to break the epoxy bond. Just cut the grip off and run the flame up and down the grip a few seconds (be careful, obviously it gets really hot.) until you can pull the extension out...you may need to twist it while you pull. I'd recommend a vise and some thick leather gloves for that process. If you aren't too picky about the swingweight, you can just use dremel or hacksaw and cut the tube at the joint...it won't be 100% like factory, but it will be a lot less trouble. If the extension is plastic, just cut it off at the joint.

I love mine. When I bought them, I chose the SV Tours over Vokeys because I preferred the S400 shafts and the Vokeys weren't offered in black. The look at address and feel was almost identical...if I remember correctly, the SV Tours and Vokeys are both crafted from 8620 carbon steel.

Used 40D's are going for great prices now, but I haven't seen any that would fit in the budget Paddy mentioned. If one could be found that fit the budget, it would be a GREAT purchase. I just bought my D5000 and 18-55 VR from Adorama for $525, refurbished by Nikon - I think that special is over, though. I think a Canon 450d w/ 18-55 IS should be doable and could maybe add the cheap Canon 50 f1.8 for low light. It may even be possible to find a refurbished or used 500d within that budget now that the 550d has been announced. Both the 450d and 500d have live view.

I agree with you. I shoot a Nikon D5000 and find that it's live view is pretty nice in certain situations, but it's not what I'd want if I planned on shooting in liveview most of the time. I was just pointing out that liveview on a DSLR is not really equivalent to liveview on his Cybershot. If you really want an interchangeable lens camera that performs on par with a p&s; in liveview, there aren't many choices.

Live View on a DSLR is a totally different experience than on a point and shoot digicam. It is useful when working on a tripod and can help when taking shots at odd angles, but in my opinion its usefulness is a bit limited for these things if it's not accompanied by an articulating screen. The problem with using liveview on a DSLR is slow autofocus...usually a good bit slower than an average point and shoot. If liveview is a really important feature for you I would recommend looking into a Micro 4/3 camera. They use interchangeable lenses and have large sensors (pretty close to the same size sensor as the Canon and Nikon you mentioned) but offer much, much better autofocus performance than any pure DSLR in liveview. The downside with these cameras is they lack an optical viewfinder...they are liveview all the time. This means they are not very well suited to shooting fast moving action...the screen will blank out each time the shutter closes to take the shot, so it's difficult to track action with them. Only two companies currently produce Micro 4/3 - Olympus and Panasonic. They use very similar sensors (but process their images differently in-camera) and both brands have very good image quality, but Panasonic's autofocus is a good bit quicker. I believe the Panasonic G1 can be found close to your budget, but camera prices can fluctuate wildly with new releases, etc. so I'm not positive. Samsung recently launched a competitor to Micro 4/3, the NX10, and from everything I've seen it looks to be a very good performer as well.

I'm pretty sure it just means the loft is verified with a digital gauge.

I've been incorporating S&T; elements into my swing for a few weeks with great success. I'd like to pick up the book to help ensure that I go about that correctly, but I can't decide on a format... Has anyone here bought the Kindle version for use with the iPhone?It seems to me that it would be convenient for reference on the course/range, but not all books of this nature translate well to that format.