msd3075

I recently had all my clubs "splined" (cheap version of PURE), but I had other things done to my clubs as well (lie/loft adjustments, different size grips). Since all the changes happened at once I can't really tell which changes affects my clubs and which didn't. All I know is that when they put my driver in the vice thing to find the frequency it just started bouncing all over the place, and when they aligned it it just oscillated straight back and worth like they claimed it would after being splined. I don't know if the effect is that big, but it shouldn't hurt.

There is a course here in town (Fianna Hill CC) that completely lost half their greens within the last few weeks. They had a "freak" isolated thrunderstorm that formed over the back 9 in the middle of the afternoon and absolutely flooded the course. It moved out and then was sunny with 100˚+ temperatures and "boiled off" all the grass. Right now, it's almost like putting in the bunker instead of on a putting green. The worst part is that they have a huge regional oil-field tournament coming up in about a month, and there is really nothign they can do in that type of time frame to fix the greens.

I think the setupthat works best really depends on what you are going to use those clubs for and how they fit your game. I carry Driver - 3 wood - 3 iron, and I only use the 3 wood off the tee. My 3 iron distance is usually around 215-220 yards, and if I'm faced with a shot that is longer than that I'll just lay up instead. Instead of carrying an extra fairway wood or hybrid, I have an extra wedge in my bag. With this setup, I have all my yardages from 50ish through 125 yards covered by my 50* and 54*, and I use my 58* for anything closer (3/4 swing max). I've worked on my wedge game to the point that I know I have a much better chance at birdie by laying up and sticking a wedge close than I do by going for a long approach and hoping I am close enough for a safe two putt. At the end of the day, you bag should be full of clubs that you are going to use and that each have a specific purpose. You shouldn't just carry clubs because they fit a certain yardage gap, especially if it's a yardage gap that you aren't strong at or that leave holes in other parts of your game. You have to recognize your strengths/weaknesses and carry clubs that exploit them.

This thread is just further evidence that you should be fit for your driver instead of trying to fit yourself. There are so many variables/specs that all work together in determining how a shaft performs that the average hacker will never get it right on the first, second, or twentieth try.

In case you didn't know, 80% of all stats are made up (this one included), and the internet is full of them.

For me, the there are two keys to tournament golf. The first is focusing 100% on the shot at hand (and how it sets up the next shot). This keeps you from thinking about your score or that difficult hole you are coming up on. At least for me, it supresses a lot of my nerves and eases my mind up so that I can swing without bad thoughts in my head. The second is accepting that you are going to screw up a few holes but have the ability to "cancel it out" by playing other holes well. Unless you are a scratch or better golfer, you are going to bogey several holes even during your best rounds. You have to learn to accept it and have the ability to prevent them from becoming double and triple bogeys.

Not to sound rude, but unless your pro is used to fitting clubs to old ladies, there is no way someone would say a 110 mph clubhead speed is "abnormally high". Yes, it is significantly above average, but it is by no means as high as you seem to lead on.

Yeah, it's just this time 2 years ago my weight was around 200ish. I guess that's what moving to Arkansas will do to you......

I'm 6'2" and weigth 225 lbs. I'd like to think some of the weight is muscle, but I'd be fooling myself. The only 6-pack I have is in the fridge.

I have a 2.0 and don't reaaly see anythign wrong with it. I have a SkyCaddie SG5 that fits perfectly inside the center console (without any reception issues either), and I use an insulated pocket on my bag for my drink so I don't really use the cup holder. The brake mechanism might be the only reason I'd go for a 3.0 because it looksl ike it's much easier to engage than on the 2.0 model. You have to get used to the 2.0's handle for a while before you can engage it without trouble.

Seeing as your location says you are from Cypress, I'm assuming the Golf Galaxy you went to was the 249/1960 location across from Willowbrook Mall. I went into that location a couple years ago to look at a new driver, and after talking to the salesman for a few minutes I looked around for a bit and then left. He had absolutely no clue what he was talking about and was more concerned with putting me in the "lastest and greatest club" that I knew for a fact wouldn't fit me instead of trying to figure out what I needed. I went down the street to Edwin Watts (a mile or so east on 1960 just after Cutten Rd. across form Target), and they couldn't have been more helpful. I'd recommend checking that place out.

You are right; a clubhead speed of 115-120 should easily achieve 285-290 yards average total distance. That is assuming it's a properly fit driver.....

I know I'm bringing up a thread from over a week ago, but the tool is not the same. I can't remember the specs of fthe top of my head, but the torque rating on the R9 fairway wood tool is different than the driver tool. YOu'll want to only use the fairway tool on your 3 wood.

I'd say those numbers seem to be fairly accurate. Most "casual" golfers really have no clue how far they hit the ball. That being said, so many people on here are so quick to jump on people that claim they can hit long drives. There are long hitters out there that aren't delusional about their average distances and aren't swinging for the fences on every tee shot. Take my swing as an example. According to the Golf Digest data, I should have a clubhead speed of around 104 and a carry distance of 250ish. In reality, my driver clubhead speed averages around 120mph (verified on a launch monitor) and my carry distance is around 290ish. That being said, I can count on one hand how many people I've played with that could regularly outdrive me. I am also the absolute first person to tell you that accuracy will always trump distance.

The main difference in hosel (known as the "neck") on putters is the amount of toe hang each will cause. If you hold your putter horizontal and balance the shaft on one finger to let the putter head hang naturally, you'll be able to tell how much toe hang the putter has. The putter head can hang at pretty much any angle. The more the putter hangs down (moves more toward being vertical), the more toe hang it has. The more toe hang a putter has, the more it wants to open/close during the putting stroke. The reason for different toe hang is to fit different puttingr strokes. A putter that's face stays parallel to the ground is known a "face-balanced" and typically better for someone with a "straight back straight through" putting stroke inwhich they want the face to stay absolutely perpendicular to their putting line. Someone with a gated putting stroke (think of a gate opening and closing on a hinge) will want a putter with a lot of toe hang. Someone that has trouble with short putts might want less toe hang so that they have a better ability to keep the putter face square to the ball on a shart stroke. The reasons go on and on concerning what type of toe hang you'd need. As for the necks you posted above, the standard plumber's-neck (the first one) typically hangs at a a 45* angle and is a good fit for a majority of golfers. The flow neck (second picture) typically has more toe hang (about 60*+) and is better for people that open and close the putter more during their stroke. That being said, the location of where the neck meets the putter head and the actual length of the neck itself can alter the amount of toe hang. I have a Scotty Cameron JLM Tour putter ( here's a link ) that is a blade-style head (typically has more toe hang) with a plumber's neck, but the toe hang on that putter is around 30*. At the end of the day, you really have to test the putter out to see how it hangs.

I have a Button Back that I'm currently in the process of selling to a member over at TCC. I gamed it for about 2-3 months but it just never felt right. I have a TeI3 Newport that I bought new over a decade ago, and to me it just feels so much better. I think what throws me off is the extra head weight in the Button Back and that it somehow makes it feel to "mushy" instead of the solid feeling I get from the TeI3. I know they seem to be the craze right now, but I just can't see me ever going back to a BB.

I kinda look up to the guy that plays from different tees seeing as he isn't giving into his ego and just playing the "tough" tees so he can brag to his friends. He's just out having fun and mixing it up a bit so he can enjoy as much of the game as possible.

I'm not really sure if this is entirely true, but I've always assumed that the term "Bogey Rating" wasn't meant to mean someone that bogeys every hole but instead someone that looks at bogey the same way a scratch (or near-scratch) golfer looks at par. I've also always assumed the 113 is just a byproduct of how the the Slope relates to how the Bogey Rating and the Course Rating are calculated; they determined the Course Rating and the Bogey rating based upon the formulas and methods they use while walking the course, and then after they examined the data they saw that the "average" course corresponded with a 113 slope. One thing too is that many people look at the Handicap/CR/Slope process backwards from how it really is determined. CR/Slope/etc are all determined by a specific method in which a USGA official walks the course and determines its difficulty based upon a number of criteria (yardage, hazards, course layout, etc). They don't have a "scratch golfer" go play the course to see what he shoots. That "scratch golfer" might be a 0.0 at that course, but he might play to a 1.5 at a course up the street and a +2.0 at a course across town depending on how his game fits that particular course.

I don't want to get into it because it's obvious from your recent post that you do infact understand how the handicap system works. That being said, the post of yours that I quoted earlier gave an extremely simplified interpretation of how slope works and when read by someone that doesn't understand how handicaps work would lead them to believe that they just multiply their handicap index by the slope/100 to get the number of strokes they should receive. It just adds to the confusion for the average golfer. And not to be picky, but the bogey rating is based on "about a 20 average", not an 18. It's actaully based upon a range of handicaps all averaging to about a 20.

Within the last month, one of hte golf magazines had a little tidbit on this. I think it was the section where they ask three different tour pros a few questions. I remember one of the pros (Ian Poulter is I remember correctly) would change balls after every bogey. I'll see if I can find a link to it....

I learned to play golf at a course run by former Masters and PGA Champion Jack Burke. One of the things he preaches is that anyone with the slightest amount of athletic ability can become a single-digit handicap if they have enough drive and determination to do it. To me, you getting down to a 7.8 with hard work and the help of teaching yourself through golf books and such is a perfect example. When I think of the difference between a 7.8 handicap and someone that is qualifying for a Nationwide event, it's about the same difference between a 7.8 handicap and some that can't even make contact with the ball. Nationwide Tour players are 99.99% as good as PGA Tour players; the only difference is making 2 or 3 putts and hitting 2 or 3 "better" shots over a 72 hole tournament. I guess to answer your question, you have absolutely no chance in hell of qualifying for a Nationwide event.

I'm sorry to sound blunt, but your explanation of what slope represents is COMPLETELY incorrect. "Slope" is the slope of the line connecting the Course Rating to the Bogey Rating on a "Rating" vs. Handicap plot. Yes, you are correct in that it determines how a non-scratch golfer compares to a scratch golfer, but the method you state for determining how many stroke above you are is absolutely incorrect. If you want to know how many strokes above a scratch golfer you are, you would use the Course Handicap formula which is as follows: Course Handicap = Handicap Index * ( Slope / 113 ) Using that formula, you'd expect to play 1.3274 shots worse that a scratch golfer for every digit above scratch that you are.

I must have a dirty mind, but I read the title to this thread completely wrong. I guess it doesn't help either when the topic listed below it is about "jerkoffs".

While the free handicap calculators work well, you can always just figure it out on your own. Just use this forumla: Differential = (Score - Course Rating) * 113 / Slope Figure out your best 10 out of 20 differentials, average them, multiply by 0.96, and then truncate all the decimal after the tenths (ie. 3.78 doesn't round to 3.8 but is just 3.7).

The main reason for the handicap system being based on potential instead of averages is so that it can better allow people of differing abilities to compete on a fair and level playing field. For a match to be fair, the player that is playing "better" for his/her ability should be the one that wins the match. By working the number of strokes you get around what you'd shoot on a good round, you are leveling the playing field with your opponent so that you should both shoot the same net score if you play well. The system also rewards consistency seeing the more consistent golfer's average is going to beat the irratic golfer's average. You have to remember that the handicap system isn't directly tied into par and that it's only purpose is to level the playing field. So many people think that your handicap is related to how much you are over par but in reality it's how much better/worse you are than a scratch golfer. I can go on and on about handicaps, how they are calculated, how CR/slope works, but you'd really do yourself a favor to read up on the USGA's website in the Handicap section.