Hokie2k5

I've putted a bit with them and thought feel wise they were pretty similar to the studio select models. I didn't really notice any difference between the two (studio select vs. cali), they do look really nice to look down at.

I've sent a couple putters in for a regrip, paintfil, stamping, etc and got them all back within 15 days. This was late summer/early fall of 2009 so I dunno what has changed since then.

I've got the 3.0's & LTD's, and prefer them to the newer 4.0's. The 4.0's are very comfortable and lightweight but I just can't get over the toe box on them. The stitching is weird and it looks like the shoe is on crooked or something, if you try on a pair you'll quickly see. If it doesn't bother you, more power to you because otherwise it's a great looking shoe. I needed a slight break in period with the LTD's but once broken in they are very comfortable. The 3.0's are a little stiffer but I think looks wise I like them the best of the bunch, plus I got them for like $89 on closeout a few months ago. I don't really think you can go wrong, I think Adidas golf shoes are the best on the market and I've tried just about every other brand out there.

I've got the O-zone bag and I've been pretty happy with it. It's held up well and they look great, my only issue is the one pocket I normally use for all my tees, ball markers, divot tools, etc. gets strapped in when I ride on a golf cart. So i have to unstrap the bag to get into that pocket. Otherwise it's a great bag.

I've sent my two Scotty's to the custom shop in the past year. Both are Studio Select Newport II's (one a button back and one just the stock model) I added a site dot on top with both and had my initials put in the bump on the back of the putter. Looks great, I would never trust myself to change the paint fill myself. Every time I've sent my putter off it's only taken about 15 days to get it back, I wish they'd back off the minimum charge of $35 because I think from here on out I think all I'll want to do is get them to put the factory red cord grip on there. Or maybe one day I'll luck out and they'll start selling those grips retail....

Interesting, the Sante Fe is the TeI3 like yours and that insert is pretty mushy. I've got a Studio Select Newport 2 and much prefer the "click" of that putter face to the TeI3. I'm currently gaming the Button Back Newport limited edition from a couple years ago which has the teryllium insert which is a touch softer than the studio select and I love it. Thanks for the insight, you probably cost me about $300 :)

Looks good, I've got an old Sante Fe that I'm considering sending back for restoration. I like the pro platinum finish, I didn't think about doing that at all.

The PX Flighted might help but from talking to the Titleist rep at the demo day it was more the mass of the tungston in the head of the AP2 causing the higher ball flight than the shaft. I hit them (in a 6 iron) with DG X100's and it knocked the flight down some but I liked the feel of th PX better and loved the thought of a higher flight in longer irons so I went that route. I thought about just getting X100's put in shorter irons but Im' not crazy about mixing up the shafts on an iron set. Unfortunately I need to hit the AP2 7 iron next to the MB 7-iron with the same shafts and check out the ball flight but it's hard to do that (especially with X flex shafts). I guess my dilemma is more would the change in shafts to DG in my Ap2s or changing the heads to MB's with PX cause more of an issue and I'm not sure there's an easy way to figure it out. If you go on Titleist's website they have a pretty cool chart of where all the iron shafts rank based on launch and spin. It shows the flighted PX being a pretty high launch compared to the standard PX and the DG, with the DG bing the lowest flight lowest spin of the bunch.

I think "tour issue" is different for different companies. For the most part they are exactly the same as the off-the-rack versions just built for the pros. In some cases they are different, I know Taylormade offers all kinda of options to their tour pros that you could never get retail, Titleist offers 7.5 degree drivers to their pros which you can't get retail, Callaway with the tour authentic FT-9's last year....things like that. I would bet that tour issue stuff is built to exact specs of what they're supposed to be as opposed to what you can get when you buy off the rack. But for the most part - unless you want to get something to colllect or put on your wall, you're probably over paying. All that being said - I wouldn't mind having enough cash to buy a Circle T Scotty Cameron just to look it. Those things rule.

Honestly I don't think so. I've played forged blades before an my yardages were within a couple yards of where the current Ap2's are. I hit my 7 iron 165-170 with blades and I hit my 7 iron the same with AP2's so I think distance should be the same. I just ordered the MB PW to replace my AP2 PW that I've hit like crap since the moment I got it so I'm gonna see how that goes and then I'll buy 7-9 if the PW experiment goes well.

I currently like my AP2's but tend to hit the ball too high with the shorter irons and miss the traditional look & feel of blades. What do you think of keeping my AP2 3-6 and ordering 7-PW in the new MB's. Do you think I'd have any issues - I know they wouldn't blend as well as say CB's and MB's but I think it would work pretty well for me. I like the higher ball flight with the long irons but the heavy head weights of the shorter irons just flight the ball way too high for my liking and I struggle with distance control. I was much more accurate with the shorter irons in my old 735.CMs.

They are supposed to be unreal. I have never hit them but I just ordered a wedge last week that should be here by this weekend. Can't wait, I've heard nothing but good things about Scratch golf. They might be the best looking irons out there right now.

A few more

Here's my bag pics

I have the 08 version of the AP2's. I am planning to drop the 3 iron all together - It's loft is 21* The 4 iron standard loft is 24* which I would probably bend to 22* And I'd take the 5 iron from 27* to probably 26* (might actually leave it at 27*, I think I'd rather have a 5* gap between the 4&5 irons rather than 5&6) Right now I hit my 3 iron about 215 on average. 4 iron - 205 5 iron - 190 6 iron - 180 My goal was to be able to hit my 4 iron about 210-215ish 5 iron - 195sh In my mind it all makes sense - I was more concerned with whether or not it would cause any problems? Will I notice any difference in feel, will it change the way the sole enters the turf when I swing? Will simply just bending the 4 iron get me the extra distance I'm looking for?

I realize this may be dumb question but here goes... I'm going back to a PW/52/56/60 wedge setup so I need to pull a long iron or 5W out of my bag and I was thinking of dropping my 3 iron and bending my 4 and 5 irons stronger to account for the loss of the club. Since the AP2's are forged there shouldn't be any issue in bending the clubs but is there anything I need to worry about? Will i notice any differences playability-wise (other than the obvious change in distance and trajectory from the change in lofts). The only reason I ask is I was mentioning this idea to a friend and he said he once bent a 5 iron stronger and it never performed the same as it did before bending.

Nice stick! How'd you get your hands on one? Aren't they tour only?

Well - To complicate things further I tried a few more things last night. I took a string measuring from the middle of the cup and drew a straight line on my putting "green" in my house to make sure I'm lined up corretly. Took a few strokes, which was my typical norm made 90% of them but misses were either going in on the right side of the cup or pushed right. Next step, I laid down the putting tutor making sure both lines were the same and stroke a few putts - I immediately start knocking the left ball off the tutor again. Next step - I take the ball off the left side of the putting tutor and stroke a few more putts - and my misses are pushes again. Hell I even set up a tripod behind me to see if I could see anything on video but my digicam doesn't have frames per second capacity to see what my putter face looks like at impact or to see how the ball knocks the putting tutor ball bearing off the left side. I guess I just suck at putting... Good thing it's freezing outside and I have all winter to figure this crap out.

I recently picked one up and have been messing around with it with my little practice 3' x 9' putting green in my house and I knock the ball off the left side of the putting tutor when I miss. But, when I putt without it I tend to push putts when I miss. So, I guess my question is how is that possible? Shouldn't I be knocking the ball on the right side (push side) of the putting tutor? I hardly ever pull putts so I'm a bit confused here.

You can find them on ebay, sometimes they come with a wrench. I don't know if they are the exact same weights or not but I'm sure they are pretty close.

Depending on what Scotty Newport model you have it should only be more like 10 grams heavier than the standard 35" putter. It really shouldn't make THAT much of a difference. I prefer a heavier putter but with putters it's pretty much all preference. Little changes can cause big differences. But for the average Joe golfer, adding an 1" extension to a SC putter isn't going to make that much of a difference.

The "Tour Authentic" model has a different hosel than the standard offering and is a much smaller head than the retail version. I've heard rumblings on some other sites that they may release it to us mortals but I wouldn't hold your breath. You can try and find one on ebay for about $1000 if you're that interested. Nike did something similar with the Dymos that Tiger, AK and others played last year which had a much smaller head so the pros could work the ball easier. The tour players equipment these days is so far from the standard offering (except maybe Titleist) that it's getting nearly impossible to keep track of. The manufacturers build those guys whatever they want which is pretty sweet. Funny how all the pros are trending back to smaller heads to get back to working the ball. It will be interesting to see what happens in 2010 with the groove change and more of an importance being put on finding fairways.

I've never read Pelz's putting books just browsed through the "Putting Bible" but I would think a true square to square stroke is basically impossible. Wouldn't your body have to be bent at a 90 degree angle in order to make a perfect pendulum stroke? I would think the putter arc would have to go inside (even if it's just slightly) with a square-to-square stroke. I feel like I try and find a spot in the middle, square to square doesn't feel right to me and I struggle with shorter putts (especially with a decell) and push putts with the arc'ed putting stroke. I need to pick up an Utley book and read up on his ideas.

They are pretty small, not quite as small as blades though. Great clubs, they are highly regarded and probably some of Taylormade's best irons ever.

Another vote for the clic gear 2.0! I've had it for a year and love it!