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mdvaldosta

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Everything posted by mdvaldosta

  1. I'm sure there are alot of factors, again I say the best way to dial in is to use a laser rangefinder and go flag hunting with your irons. Or, you could GPS different points in a fairway but I find the rangefinder much more accurate.
  2. 200-230-260 is a range... for shorter, medium and longer hitters. I can see it being helpful for those who have no idea how far they hit most of their irons. In fact, a friend of mine used that very same list when he started playing golf - until he got his irons dialed in.
  3. No, but my distances aren't hard to dial in on the course. I don't notice any differences in the distance with my irons and new range balls. I'm sure they're some... at any rate if you're using a range finder and know that you've got 155 to the pin and your 8 iron routinely comes up 5 yards short... then you know it's a 150 club. Honestly, once you dial in a few clubs getting the distances for the rest are fairly easy by splitting them. For example, PW 120, 9I 135, 8I 150.... pretty easy to guess the 7I would be about 165 and 15 yards or so for the rest of the irons. They're made to be proportional like that. I think everyone just rounds to the nearest 5 yards because few people hit exactly the same on the clubface and exactly the same swing speed every time. It's more about averages and expectations. Again, the best way is to use a rangefinder. You could use your own balls on a slow day at the course. Hit 5 shots in at a pin from a certain distance and dial yourself in for that club.
  4. Yea, definately a sign of backspin. Swing plays the biggest role, then shaft, then head (in my experience).
  5. It's easiest if your driving range has flags/targets and you've got a laser rangefinder.
  6. Also check your lofts, they may be weaker than others. Also, being their blades you've got to strike the ball really solid to get the distance out of them.
  7. Yep, that pretty much sums up this whole thread.
  8. You can still fade them, it's just their tendancy is to hit a draw. If it's a 15 yard tendance to the left, you'd have to try to hit a 30 yard fade to fade it 15 yards right. Well, in theory anyway.
  9. I hit it the same as I hit a 3 iron.
  10. I believe the 460 TP doesn't have a draw bias like the regular 460, and for shafts the TP versions are stiffer in the tips and overall better.
  11. Hybrids are best suited for this type of thing. They fly high and land soft.
  12. Larger grips make it harder to turn your hands over, thus the open clubface and fade/slice tendancy. Make sure your grip actually fits you. With the proper grip, your middle fingers should be barely able to touch your palms. If you can dig in, they're too small... if they don't quite touch then too large. It's amazing the difference a grip can make. I'd only suggest a larger than usual grip if you've got very active hands and tend to close, and that's only if you can't learn a weaker grip.
  13. Just make sure you know the rules, those guys are gonna be much more stickler about them then the high schoolers you competed against.
  14. If you practice right, and not just banging out 600 range balls. You're a 4, so you know... Definately practice. I think a 1 hour practice is more effective than a 4 hour round. Especially if most of that time is spent around the green. I've dropped from a 13 to probably below 8 now in the last month, spending 3-4 days a week on the driving range/practice green.
  15. No offense dude, but I don't think that looks like a 3 handicap swing either, or even a 10. But hey, it's not like we're watching you play. Pretty low to dish on others' swings though, especially while yours looks like a baseball player who's been playing golf for a week.
  16. Usually, playing the ball a bit more foward and teed up a tad higher will encourage more of a draw. But... if you play all your other shots as you like them (as far as ball flight) except your driver then yea - use that sucker's built-in adjustability... that's what it's for.
  17. Definately best to pick a spot just in front of the ball, and use that as a line to set your clubface first then your feet. That's what I do. If you do this every time, you're aiming properly. At that point, it's just about alignment (use sticks or clubs and do the railroad track thing).
  18. Pick your line, trust it, and hit with a firm and confident stroke. Easier said than done though.
  19. My misses are usually towards the heel a bit also, and with my irons if I got as far as you I'd shank them off the hosel. I now stand about an inch farther from the ball, which now my misses are a bit thin but it prevents the occassional shank.
  20. Range finder, for sure. If you're guessing distances based on yardage sticks and flag colors, then you're sure to pickup several strokes or better during the course of a round.
  21. UPDATE: the eBay seller said the previous owner had a custom shaft in it and the put the factory shaft back in it, said it was probably epoxy... the rattle is definately in the head, not inside the shaft.
  22. I think definately stiff in the irons, the driver... depends on your tempo I'd imagine. You're probably borderline but if you hit the stiff driver fine then I'd keep it.
  23. it's got a nasty little rattle inside the head, and it's not the weights. Doh... snagged it off eBay, and got burned. Sucks to be me. Gonna take it down to the pro shop and have them pull the shaft and see what comes out.
  24. Clearly highly edited. Bottom line: he's still got a hitch and he might hit the ball alittle straighter now but he's still lucky to break 100... even with $100k worth of instruction.
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