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Any particular reason S400 over X100?

Nearest I can tell, most standard wedge flexes are a Dynamic Gold S200. My irons have S300 shafts in them, but I'm debating whether I'd be better off with an X100 to keep the ball flight down. Thoughts?

How many of you play non-standard shafts in your wedges? Intuitively, it makes sense to put the same shafts in your wedges that you have in your irons, but is there a reason for playing a different flex? What are the pros and cons of stiffer/weaker shafts in wedges?

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Assuming equal contact, why not overswing? Why not Happy Gilmore? To answer your question, I think its a full club. Maybe a bit more even, but it doesn't work that way. What's the point in ever hitting a 3/4 shot if you can hit it just as crisp with a full swing?

You got it.

I agree. I think that how you hit them is the real question here. If you're all over the place and can't control them, then you may have an argument here. I play DGS300 and I'm swinging nearly 10mph faster. I'm not familiar with your particular shaft, but I think the best way to tell if you were fit incorrectly is if you can't hit them. Then you have a case with the retailer. My .02

Practice swing mentality: swing the club. Actual swing mentality: hit the ball. Try making "practice" swings (with a ball) focusing on the swing, not the contact.

Consider how many times you'd use each in a round. I personally dropped my 2H for a 3W and haven't had many shots where I've regretted my club choices. I think it depends on your length off the tee and what type of player you are. If you'll use the wedge more than the hybrid (in terms of shots per round, not utility) then go with the wedge. I'm pretty happy with my current wedge-heavy setup.

Now that's some Bruce Pearl recruiting if I've ever seen it... ;)

With the exception of your 6- and 7-iron gaps, you and I have nearly identical yardages. I don't think they're messed up at all. It could be possible (I've heard) to have weird frequency variations between your 6- and 7-iron shafts and the rest of the set. Really those are the only clubs that appear off though...

This has to be a typo.... Where's In N Out? The Double-Double is almost worth a free-miles flight... No really. They're that good.

I played a round last November in about 45 degree weather. I bladed a 4-iron on the first fairway and my hands stung until the 5th green. Shortly after impact, I was considerably closer to "F*%# me sideways that sucked..." than "Hmm, I think I hit that a bit thin, thanks for the feedback!" Feedback doesn't do you any good if you don't have the experience to know what to do with it. The catch is that when you've got the experience, you don't need player's irons to tell when you've struck a ball incorrectly.

Ballooning is due to spin. The ball spins more when you swing harder. Furthermore, wind exaggerates this effect. Aside from taking more club, I find that swinging easier and really focusing on trapping the ball makes for more predictable distance as it keeps the ball low and away from the wind. I've found that into a strong wind, a 3/4 swing with delofted face creates more distance than a full swing with the same club. Try some knockdowns like this at the range to get used to the contact and ballflight.

As mentioned before, your equipment selection certainly isn't helping you out if you're trying to hit a low ball. Also, your weight shift into impact doesn't look aggressive enough to achieve the distance you're seeking (granted, you're trying to hit the ball farther than most people can hit it...).

This isn't personal experience, so take it for what its worth, but I have a friend who hits clubs like you. He airmailed a green from 180 with his PW. His long iron strikes look like a wedge swing. I want to say his 4i goes about 230-240ish, as he takes monster divots and delofts the club quite a bit with even his long irons. His ballflight obviously starts really low but the dramatic downward strike creates a lot of spin which causes a ballooning effect. I would say to try and hit the long irons with the same swing as the short irons, even if you have to choke up at first. This should give you an idea of how much you can deloft and still keep the ball in the air.

That's where I got the background. Has anyone played both shafts in the same flex that can testify whether or not the ballflight will be higher with the SL?

Ok, c*%k measuring aside, I have some answers for you. Keep in mind, there is no standard governing what qualifies as a "stiff" versus an "extra stiff" shaft. Some "stiff" shafts play stiffer that others in an "X-flex". Generally speaking, heavier, boardier shafts decrease your launch angle. This can be good for hitters losing distance due to ballooning, but bad for hitters with already ideal launch conditions as it leads to distance loss. I personally had a similar problem, went to an X-flex in my driver, and it helped out a bit. If you're hitting 260+ and think you're shorting yourself, you need to focus on spin numbers and probably not so much launch. Try to find a super-low spin shaft with a high kick point to maximize your distance.

I recently became aware that the shafts in my irons are really heavy, comparatively speaking. I play DG S300 now and settled on them versus the PX 5.5 because I like the lower (again, relatively) ballflight they give me. Relative to some of my playing partners, I feel that my irons weigh maybe 20-30% more. On to the question: who has experience with the SL series? Do they play the same, only lighter? Or will my ballflight increase? I wouldn't mind the extra yardage (currently 155yd 8i) but don't want to mess with the occasional sky-ball...

Sounds like my old polo instructor...

Keep the pin in?

I agree. I think they look cheap.

I gotcha. Is there terminology for this or am I misusing the term 'lie angle'?

Ok, I understand what you're saying, but the lie angle as defined by every source I can find online doesn't change based on the shaft length. The lie angle is defined as the angle between sides B and C of your triangle as determined by the club, not the golfer . The OP wants a shorter club and a flatter lie angle. Making the club shorter will not change the angle created by the sole of the club and the shaft, but rather the dynamic angle of the face (maybe there's a term for this?). Why on earth would anyone play an iron toe up/down? I thought the idea behind changing the lie angle was to properly sole the club?

Just the opposite, I leave my wedges in the stand side for both walking and riding rounds. It's not a big deal to have to reach around the woods to grab irons from the cart and I don't want my irons click-clacking all over my graphite wood shafts when I walk.