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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Better. On your perfect struck hits, a little better. On your bigger mishits, way, way better. So your overall distance should go up significantly, your best drives may go up a lot or may only go up a smaller amount comparably speaking. There will be some adjustment time though because the new drivers usually have longer shaft lengths and lighter overall weights, so you may not see instant results until you get used to the club since you are coming from something as old as the 360. May want to check this video out after you get a new driver, it's a DIY Driver Fitting, that can help get the most out of a driver.
  2. The 360 was the most forgiving of the TM models released at that time (300, 320, 360), but is nowhere near as forgiving as a 460cc driver. TM still makes great drivers and if you liked the old ones most people still like the new ones. You can get a M2 driver off eBay for under $100 and that is a great driver, many say it's the greatest driver TM ever made even comparing it to the newest stuff. Can also get an M4 (one model newer) for around $150 and it's as solid and forgiving as anything out there today.
  3. Having someone else tell you how a shaft works is kind of like having someone else try on shoes for you. They can put them on and walk around but the experience can be vastly different for each person. So we are left with comparing the specs and then it's a matter of swinging it and see how it feels in relation to the rest of your bag. Assuming you are matching weights (most important spec), both shafts are also counterbalanced. Biggest difference on paper is the PO is a low launch shaft and the VA is billed as a high. Both say low spin but of course the VA will not be low spin if it's high launch as those things go hand in hand. Anyone claiming high launch/low spin is marketing bull. In most golfers hands the PO will "feel" more stout, but again this will be golfer specific to a large part based on speed, sequencing, and technique.
  4. I personally think the vise is the most important piece of equipment you can have in your shop. It is so versatile. Any other tool can be substituted for something else, but a good vise is like an extra pair of hands, that can't be hurt, and can hold strong. I've made a portable gripping setup before using a drill press vise (around $20) with a rubber shaft clamp ($3) and bolting the vise to a piece of plywood. Wood should be at least 1/2 inch thick and can be around 10-12 inches wide, but needs to be at least 32 inches long to accommodate woods. The trick with it is to brace it against a wall so you have something to push against. It can sit on top of a table or counter or a couple saw horses, but needs sit with the end against a wall. This way you can regrip anywhere and be able to apply some pressure need be without worrying about things sliding or shifting.
  5. Not sure I can name too many players who actually go stiffer in the wedges then the rest of the irons. The typical transition is either to run the same shaft through the set, or drop the flex a touch but go heavier in the wedges, ie DG X100 into S400. Of course KBS makes this transition difficult since they weight/flex match their shaft sets. That being said, if all your wedges are the same model, I would put the same shaft in all of them for consistency. At least that's what I would do. If you need to change distance gaps, just bend down the 52 a degree or so. Way better to gap using loft, as opposed to trying to squeeze out tiny changes with shafts.
  6. At 6'4 I would look at probably 1 inch over standard as a starting point. Any more than that gets really unwieldy. Something forgiving from Callaway preowned would be a good starting point, as you know you are getting legit stuff usually in better condition than what they claim. Also would want something with midsize or larger grips as that makes a big difference, maybe more than anything else when fitting for bigger golfers. If you want to spend more you can go and get a basic fitting for new clubs from any of the big box stores. They can at least get you close on length, grip size, flex, set make up, and get it ordered from the manufacturer.
  7. Yes, 9.5 would play 11 on the F9 head. You are down lofting so you are actually going to be opening the face, not closing it.
  8. I think the F8 and before actually have lofts written on the adapter so no, you will have to add 1.5 to that number for the F9 since it's lofted 1.5 higher. The F9 and newer have the loft printed on the head and the adapter says something like "higher" or "lower" I think.
  9. It comes off really easily. The rubber cement just peels off with the grip often or it can be peeled off the shaft if it didn't stay with the grip. Trying to remember back who, but at least one of the OEMs used some sort of cement to do all their grips from the factory. May have been Cleveland? This was years ago now.
  10. If you don't have the tools at home, try this. Works surprisingly well.
  11. Every raw shaft you buy needs to be cut down to length. They all start long. Fujikura stock length is 47in. Almost all other brands are 46, but in any case you will need to cut it down. Different drivers have different bottom bore depths so each driver will require a little different cut to get the same final playing length. Sounds like you have the measuring part down now. As far as shaft recommendations, you will just need to go try a few and see what feels good and what gives good numbers for your swing. May want to try a couple different weights as that is going to make the biggest difference. 2 other points. Don't think that a different shaft is going to help you when swinging harder. It's you, not the shaft that causes misses. When you swing harder, your timing and sequencing goes out of wack and that is why the ball goes where you don't want it to. The shaft only does what you make it do. It is possible that certain shaft specs may help you keep everything better timed when swinging harder but a bad swing can't be saved by a shaft, only mitigated. Lastly, don't worry about torque numbers. This is the last shaft spec anyone should be looking at. I would pick shafts based on color scheme before I base a decision on torque measurements. Get the weight, balance point, profile and flex that works well for you, and whatever torque number goes with that particular shaft is good.
  12. Is this a Burner Bubble shaft from back 25 years ago. They had an enormous butt end and really could only use 1 of 2 specific Taylormade grips that had the matching inside diameter at the butt end. Any other grip would give you a crazy tapered result with a super thick butt. We used to have a tool specific to installing these grips, not sure if its still available today. Scratch that. Just found it on Golfworks. The ultimate grip installer tool. Like Boogielicious said, at this point you probably will only be able to find .620 grips that might work on some level. You might be able to locate some of the TM Bubble grips on Ebay, but not sure you can buy them individually. Stay away from multi material and corded grips as they give less. Also make sure the grips aren't cold.
  13. This would do the job. Like I said, get a machine screw and couple washers and you can do hosel adapters also. Value Shaft Extractor THE GOLFWORKS - VALUE SHAFT EXTRACTOR, VALUE SHAFT EXTRACTOR, Golf Heads, Golf Reheading, Head Extractor, Golf Epoxy, Heading Epoxy, Golf Head Epoxy, Maltby Heads, Maltbie Heads, Ralph... Also if you need a quick video on how to do it, here you go. The shaft puller is different but the technique will be the same.
  14. Do you have a shaft puller? You can get a basic one for under $80. You can use it for hosel adapters also, just need a 1inch or longer machine screw of the same diameter as the hosel thread and a couple 3/4 or one inch washers to pull against.
  15. I would give them another day or carefully bring them in the house overnight to set faster. Bring the leftover too, so you know when it's set. I always tell people to save the leftover epoxy so you can check it's process without disturbing the clubs. I don't think you should have any issues with the bond even if you moved the shaft a bit before it was set.
  16. If it was cold or damp outside that can add a good bit of time to the process. Did you only do the 9 iron or the whole set? Also did you keep the epoxy you mixed up?
  17. It's just tape I am sure, issue is just with that hard tip and butt section and how it connects to the softer middle. Good luck.
  18. Dremel is a great option. You can cut steel and graphite shafts with it. prep shafts (with some practice), could even clean out hosels with it with the right attachment.
  19. If you have been doing regrips you are already well on your way. There is nothing mystical about club making, just geometry, physics, and common sense. If you've got the vise (by far most important tool), torch or heat gun, and a drill as mentioned, those are 3 big basics. Here is what I would add. Utility knife 48 inch ruler epoxy (start with quick set) sand paper (medium and fine grit) hacksaw, manual pipe cutter, rotary tool, or chop saw. Of course if you have a built out shop a belt sander is useful, as is the chop saw, but you can do all the same stuff with manual tools. If you have specific questions about picking shafts, I would ask those separately as you have to be more specific dealing with tip diameter, weight, length, flex, etc. I would look at some videos on Youtube as a starting point. I recommend finding the Mobile Clubmaker.
  20. If it's a Winn, or Superstroke etc style grip with a hard tip and butt cap section (multiple materials) the slim jim style tool is difficult to use. Best bet is with air compressor or inject solvent into the grip in different spots and work it loose that way.
  21. Correct, there is a graphic in the video with that caveat exactly. The face orientation can be in any direction as long as it is consistently used in that same position. The face at the target just insures that the loft number stated on the hosel will be accurate.
  22. I know these questions come up on here from time to time. Think this video can help if you want to understand all the details.
  23. Club Conex offers a couple products that allow for a conventional hosel modification for interchangeable heads. Pieces are around $10-$20 each for a head or shaft. This will add weight to the overall club in the end, both swing weight and static weight so you want to at least be aware of that. Look at the FAZ fit or the FUSE fit product line. One is epoxied inside the hosel and the other you epoxy to the outside of the hosel. Have not used it but looks like you need to sand the outside of the hosel for that one so there is no going back as you will mess up the look of the shaft. The final club lengths will also need to be adjusted depending on which one you use.
  24. You would have to bore out those hosels to get back to a .355 if they are in fact smaller than that. Just make sure it's not just a case of leftover debris in there. Adapters won't help.
  25. The 7 in HD7 refers to the weight, 70g. The flex may or may not be printed on the shaft as I have seen some without it. There should also be a sticker on the butt end of the shaft with the CPM number on it under the grip. Would have to remove the grip and hope the sticker was not removed at some point.
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