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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Just fyi, the difference between S300 and 400 is about 2-3 grams. That weight is further stretched out over the length of the shaft. You will not see a difference between them while playing them. S200 and S400 exist because some DGs fall outside of the manufacturing tolerances, hence they are sold as 200 and 400. I will tell you that if you are around 110 driver speed, then sub 100 shafts probably aren't necessary or helping you. You could look at the 130g stuff (DGs, PX, Nippon Modus3 130, etc), but most people are best suited in that 105-115g range.
  2. If you make putts with it then it's priceless. However if you were hoping to retire off the auction proceeds from it, sorry. Maybe you could get $10 for it on a good day. Nothing in the pictures show me anything that indicates any value to it; brand, material, or design. Also Patent Pending (aka Provisional Patent) and Utility Patent (actual legal patent) are very different things. Every tv golf infomercial product has or at least claims to have a Provisional Patent, which is by itself quite meaningless.
  3. That bore should be over an inch. If not, you are going to have to drill out the residue. Technically 3/4 inch is enough area to get a good bond but I would rather have the full amount if possible. Almost all Callaway use a collared ferrule so that will help with the looseness some. Many of the Callaways run loose. You can use shafting beads but they really are not meant to fill substantial gaps. Should only be using around 5% beads by volume of epoxy. I often resort to a brass shim to get everything nice and snug. Between cleaning out the hosel and using the collared ferrule, you should have no issue covering the prepped shaft area.
  4. Both should launch about the same but the weight and the overall stiffness in the Grafalloy should promote lower more right flight if we compare them. Again, this is only theory because how your body reacts to the shaft could cause a different result from what "should" happen. If you are looking for more height, you are always better off lofting up the head. Loft change is a guarantee of launch change, shaft profile will be small if any.
  5. Not sure what better ball flight means? Are you wanting change in launch height, direction? If I am comparing these two shafts on paper, I would say that they would launch at similar height. The Fuji is 10 grams lighter which could mean more height out of it vs. the Grafalloy though. Grafalloy probably plays a little stiffer also both because of weight and design. Might mean the Grafalloy won't help close the face up as much and could result in losing the ball right. Of course these are all on paper, what a shaft should do and what it does can be complete opposite depending on the hands swinging it.
  6. This falls into that category of club fitter shenanigans. Those heads are solid, I've no issue with them. However, from there we go off the rails big time. As you have pointed out, ACCRA shafts are not a option, either stock or upgrade for the C300. I am sure that's just a coincidence! O wait, it's not. This is right out of the Club Champion style playbook. They know that if they recommend a stock offering from an OEM, then you are likely to just order direct from that OEM. However, if they convince you that you will be better suited in some random aftermarket brand (the favorites right now seem to be ACCRA and Oban), that you can't order from the OEM, you are more likely to order from them. Notice again that the grip recommendation is also not an option from Wilson. Funny how that works, isn't it. Is that ACCRA shaft a good shaft? I am sure it is. I haven't used it but I am sure it's fine. Is it better or better for your son than any number of other shafts, hard NO. Shafts have a lot of specs that fitters love to toss around, but the only ones that really matter for 99% of golfers are total weight, balance point, and radial quality. Find another shaft with the same weight, balance, and radial (build) quality, you will most likely be in good shape. Bend profile can make very small changes in ball flight, torque is of little value. All this is to say that the Fuji or UST options will be every bit as good. I would however also ask if graphite is even necessary? 185 yrd 6 iron doesn't need super light weight graphite unless you have an issue with joints, bones, etc and need the dampening effects. Assuming 16 year old probably does not. Hope this helps. I don't like to bad mouth people I don't know, but I am skeptical about this fitter from what I have read here.
  7. FYI, you're not. You're wanting to trade for a set of iron shafts with .355 taper tips.
  8. Modus 105 and DG 105 will be the closest. Weight is about the same as is the flight.
  9. Equipment has come so far today that you can get graphite as heavy and stiff as any steel, and likewise steel as light and flexible as many graphites. I would suggest you go somewhere you can try a few different shafts, both material and weight. Try a 95g steel shaft, an 80 gram graphite, a 60 gram graphite and see how they feel and what kind of distance you get. Don't just assume that the lightest shaft will give you the best distance however, as different swings can react differently to weight. Also remember there are steel shaft options with dampeners in them to cut vibration. Might want to at least check those out. True Temper makes one called the Elevate that is light and dampens and I've seen good reviews of. For graphite the popular ones right now are UST Recoil, PX Catalyst, and Aerotech Steelfiber. All these are high quality.
  10. I am not going to get into the many reasons I don't like Club Champion, but will instead just remind you of this. As billchao states, you don't have to buy the club they suggest. You pay for the fitting. Whether you buy what they recommend is up to you as is whether you buy it from them. I will say they always seem to lean towards shafts that are super expensive and or unavailable as either stock or upgrade options from OEMs. I am sure that is just coincidence! Will let you in on another little secret. You can very easily take those shaft specs and find a different shaft with the same weight, balance point, profile and get the same results out of it and only have to maybe pay $100 shaft upgrade charge or maybe none depending on the stock options. Final word. Go to Club Champion if you want to try all the different combinations of heads and shafts but know what you're looking for going into it, and put little stock in what they tell you. And don't buy the clubs from them unless you are trying to just burn money.
  11. There is no good way to fix that sort of damage. Just keep it as is. Over time, it will become less and less visible as the sole wears.
  12. If the person you bought from is a Titleist rep, I would assume the club should be legit.
  13. Can't say I have ever seen one. Being that golf club values really only go in one direction I don't know how necessary or useful it would be.
  14. Go back and hit them again. Never ideal to make a decision after one time hitting although that how most people do it. If the Mizuno still performs then you have your answer. Try to switch up the order this time also just to ensure useful results. There are many reasons a certain club may not work for you but the majority of the time it comes down to weight and balance and how you respond to those variables.
  15. If it worked well when you gripped them down, then you do not need to worry about changing the swing weight. Gripping down vs. cutting down will give you the same SW to within 1 point. Too many people put too much emphasis on SW and they're being some perfect swing weight. If they don't feel too light when you gripped down, they won't be too light if you cut them down. As far as value goes, yes cutting them down an inch will lower the value some if you tried to sell them as you have reduced the number of potential buyers, but the fact is that golf clubs lose value so quickly, the difference will be minimal unless you are talking current or 1 model previous clubs.
  16. Howard, that's not accurate. The influence of lie angle diminishes as we decrease the loft towards 0. A one degree up or flat lie will not equate to anything close to a 1 degree face angle change. Unless I missed it, I did not see anything in the link specifically about this?
  17. You probably got them extremely cheap b/c first, there aren't many people looking for clubs that old and second, with those specs you only have 1/100 of 1% of golfers who would fit into that club. Probably less than that. All that being said, it's pretty simple to figure out if the lie angle is an issue for you with a ball line check. If you have not done it, get a dry erase marker or sharpie works okay. Draw a straight line on the ball about an inch long. Position the ball with the line on the back of the ball, perpendicular to the ground. Make sure you are on a flat lie (very important!) Hit the ball and see where the line mark on the club face points. If it's up and down on the face, the lie angle is good, if it's at an angle, you might need an adjustment. Ideally you should go through the set and check them all but at the very least I would check the short irons.
  18. It will be simpler to work on if you pull the shaft first.
  19. Agree. Crossline full cord. Closest thing to wrapping sandpaper around your shafts, but those suckers aren't going anywhere. You can dunk those grips in a bucket and go hit balls with them. That being said, I might try some Royal Grip cords next as they seem to have good reviews and cost what the Lamkins did 15 years ago.
  20. Oops. I was thinking of a previous Cleveland shaft so my weight was wrong. Just go with a 55 gram shaft. I don't want to say that torque isn't important, but actually yes, it's not important. Basically every other spec of a shaft is more important than torque. Pick a shaft based on weight, balance, bend profile (aka trajectory), flex, and just go with whatever torque is on that shaft. The shaft companies match torque up with other specs so you don't have to worry about it.
  21. Most important spec of any shaft is weight. I believe the weight of those gold Fuji fairway shafts were 65 give or take. Anything between 60-65, with mid to high launch like boogielicious said should do.
  22. You can still find those shafts around, although I would guess you were hitting the TaylorMade TP version of the shaft. I know they made an A,B, and C versions. I found the B version 50gm R flex on Diamond Tour Golf website. A and B were similar except the B is counterbalanced. C was a different animal all together. If you can't find the A, the B should work, just be aware that the swing weight might drop if you don't extend the playing length or add some head weight. Honestly I believe the most important aspect of a shaft is the weight, so if you can't find the exact one you want, start looking at others with similar weights first, then move on to other specs.
  23. At that launch angle and speed, I don't think that spin number is going to hurt you. If your launch was higher maybe but at 10.7 you usually need more spin.
  24. Like F2YGolf said, you can't really see the taper unless you hold a .355 next to a .370 and look at the very tip. It's just something you have to measure or you just know like here, Mizuno alway use .355 taper. What you're referring to is the stepping on the shaft. Basically how the shaft maker reduces the diameter from the butt to the tip. Each shaft will have slightly different step patterns (the spacing, the number of steps) and some shafts will have no steps (like a Project X shaft). This helps determine how the shaft bends and feels.
  25. I have not ever hit one, and I know they did not sell well, but Matrix made many great high end shafts that just usually flew under the radar, probably why they closed shop. If it works for you keep it, it's a quality shaft as good as any of the $300 aftermarkets out today.
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