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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. Assuming the current shafts are not wildly wrong for you (way too stiff or soft, heavy or light) you can just extend or cut them down. In my shop I charge $10 per club to change the length and regrip so figure that comes out to $16 per club depending on the grip you want. Lie angle changes are $5 per club. A full reshaft is $25 plus the cost of the shafts and grips. Just to give you an idea on pricing. Of course that is in USA, not sure what prices difference would be where you are located.
  2. Those Mizuno's are good sticks and can easily be modified to what you need most likely. Length and grip size will not change unless you decide down the road to go off book because of arthritis or injury etc. Swing speed will in theory go up with better technique and practice but usually not so much that you would need to totally change flexes. Lie angle might change but can always be adjusted. Mizuno's can usually be bent easily so you can adjust as needed.
  3. There are some basic elements that are essential in any fitting that aren't sexy or fun (ie shiny new heads and exotic upgrade shafts), but are by far the most important ones. Those include length, grip size, and lie angle. Everyone should have those dialed in regardless of ability as they will help everyone and don't change as a player progresses usually.
  4. A basic fitting is never a bad idea to give you a better idea of what works for you.
  5. You are going to spend around $5-$10 per club plus the cost of new grips on extending them. So an 8 club set will run you around $110-$130 depending on grips. You will also want larger grips I am pretty sure if you are needing extra length and are 6 foot 3. That is every bit as important as getting the length right. That is still way less than you will pay for a newer set of clubs though assuming you like them. Extending graphite is not an issue, is done all the time. Only time I don't recommend extensions is if you need to go much over an inch added length. Inch and a quarter is where I usually cut it off and say you are better off reshafting the clubs or getting new ones.
  6. No, that really isn't ideal to regrip at the same time as they epoxied the extension. Hopefully they used tour van epoxy and waited a few minutes at least to let it set before doing the grip. If they waited 20 minutes that would be idea and then gripped again assuming use of tour van epoxy. Don't worry though, probably won't be an issue with a 1 inch extension. Worst case, it comes loose but will still hold in place because of the grip and tape covering it. Always better to find an actual club builder to do club work. Big box stores are extremely hit or miss, assume best case they have one competent builder on staff and I use competent generously. Even better do it yourself, extensions are pretty simple repairs and a good practice before moving onto doing reshafts etc.
  7. I personally like a longer club length assuming you can still find the center of the face, and I think the increased SW from the length should help a bit with that. Again the key to distance is speed and contact so you need to find the balance that allows for the best of both. Be aware those Vokey wedge shafts are heavy (130g) so full swings are going to be harder with those shafts.
  8. Oops. Small mistake. I said 5 SW points for an inch on the wedge, it's really more like 6-7. Got my wedges and drivers mixed up with the curve. Inch on a driver will be more like 5 SW points.
  9. A longer club will give you more speed and therefore more distance in most cases assuming you can still make center contact. Guessing the Ping irons feel extra light between the 1 inch short cut, the fact that Pings run light in SW and you have a lighter senior flex shaft. The Vokeys will feel heavier but still light since an inch in a wedge reduces the SW around 5 points. If you are looking for distance you may want to extend them back to full length. You may also want to work with a little lead tape on the heads and see if you can't get a little more feel for where the head is and hopefully get some more consistent contact from it.
  10. Are there any other markings on the shaft? What was the club head brand? When it comes down to it, no shaft made 25 years ago could hold a candle to the quality of shafts made today, they were just far more inconsistent. If you have any other marking that could tell weight, flex, etc. Might also look under the grip and see if the shaft has any stickers or text at the butt end.
  11. That Hogan shaft I am pretty sure is in the 125g range so I am thinking you really might like heavier. Here is the one thing I would recommend about weight changes. I would again first recommend reshafting one iron just to have another sample to measure. But beyond that, I would go to the range and hit a bucket of balls with your clubs and then bring out the heavier shafted 5 iron and hit that last. Many golfers can really play into a wide range of weights but the question then becomes will you still be able to handle that weight on the 16th, 17th, 18th hole as you could when you started the round fresh. That would be my biggest warning about jumping 40 grams in weight.
  12. You need to hit the other set and see how far you hit them before you make any changes. Forged vs cast makes no difference in how far you hit them, it's loft, head design, shaft weight and length, those are what can impact distance. Once you hit them all, you will know if and what needs to be adjusted. You may find that you need to alter certain irons in the set more than others to hit your desired yardages.
  13. It's a hybrid so it's really in between a wood and an iron. Length should be adjusted but only so far as to maintain your gapping distance with your other clubs. It will already most likely be longer than any iron so that it won't need much length if any. Lie again will have less impact on flight because of the lower loft. If you have an adjustable hosel hybrid, you could mess with it need be. If it's a bonded hosel, it's a pain to bend so you are just better off leaving it. Can also do a sharpie lie check and see if the lie is way off for any reason. If you don't know how that works you can watch this.
  14. Sounds like the 90s may be too light although I don't know that you need to jump all the way into the 130g range. My suggestion would be to reshaft a 7 or 8 iron with either the x or just the s which is 120g more or less. You can just buy a single shaft and install it, the cost and effort would be minimal and then you can decide if you really like the heavier shaft.
  15. Wedges you will most definitely want the same specs on. Longer lengths and adjusted lie angles, (although the amount of lie change may be different as many golfers prefer a slightly flatter lie angle on the wedges compared to the irons). Driver is a different animal. Length is already long with any modern driver so extending them beyond the 45 1/2 inch standard or whatever the particular driver is wouldn't be advised. An adjustable hosel can change the lie angle some if needed but driver lie angle is usually less of a concern because of the lack of loft. Less loft = less direction change from lie angle issues. Fairway woods will also fall into this category as they have less loft to start with and are pretty long (static length) right off the rack.
  16. Some pictures of your clubs in question would be helpful. Specs will likely be difficult to find other than physically taking the club apart and measuring the component pieces for weight, angles, length etc. As far as value goes, any old golf club will be worth little unless it belonged to someone famous. Honma isn't a popular brand in this country so the market for it would be very limited here also. They will always be worth far more to you than to anyone else.
  17. Sandpaper won't hurt them unless they have some sort of oxide finish or similar on them.
  18. Saw you also posted this on another forum. Not sure with this one, but I know that numerous club fitters are on that site including CC fitters. Pretty sure your squeaky wheel got the grease (or the new heads) after posting about your escapade. Enjoy the sticks.
  19. It may be true with some off-brand infomercial type clubs as I have never checked any of them but with all the technology out there measuring ball data and with adjustable drivers it would be hard to sneak past the consumer and what would be the point.
  20. Just FYI. This isn't true. I used to hear this 15 years ago about old Callaway Big Bertha drivers but never actually measured one so I can't say for sure. However, I have measured enough modern driver heads to say that they are usually within .5 degrees up or down of what they print on the hosel.
  21. Ha Ha. He plays graphite shafts, what a loser! Is this really a thing? You need to be pretty hard up on insults to go after graphite iron shafts. For the people I play with the insults never come from what you are hitting, it's always how you hit them.
  22. No I wouldn't say that. Each club or group of clubs has certain elements that should be "fit" to the golfer. Drivers should have the correct weight, length, loft, grip size, swing weight etc, and this can be done in doors for many golfers and get the results you need. Wedges need to have the correct lofts and lies but this is much harder to discern indoors. Grinds can be important depending on the golfer but really need to be addressed outdoors on grass.
  23. No, assuming that you have a basic understanding of what you should be looking for. Wedge fitting, especially indoors is a huge waste of time personally. Wedges should ideally be adjusted after you have played with them a bit or at least spent some time at the chipping green. Then you can bend the lie angle or grind them down to fine tune what you need.
  24. Pretty sure the monitor will be accurately telling you how far and high you hit a foam ball. Don't know what that is worth unless you have some sort of conversion table of foam to real golf balls. In all seriousness, you need real golf balls with any of these systems as they are measuring the ball data and have preset info set into them so foam will most likely confuse them.
  25. True. Of course then you are paying $45 for the new finish vs. $20 per shaft for these. Can't justify paying that much.
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