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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. It is the bare metal oxidizing. You can clean it up and get it looking more metally (not a word), but the color won't match perfectly. Also will need to keep it very clean and dry to keep it from darkening again.
  2. From the picture, I would agree with a 7 out of 10 rating. Face wear on that club is pretty obvious but the grooves appear to be in good shape. Any club with good grooves and no big dings or dents I would put over a 6. The ferrules look a little scuffed and clouded, at least the one. You could fix that and get them looking new though. At least from that picture it looks like a pretty good golfer owned them and took as good a care as can be expected of them.
  3. He may not have said that he hit the blades better, however every chart you showed from the video is in fact demonstrating that he hit the blades better (ie more consistent) based on every metric you showed compared to the Max. Again I say these were only his personal results, and I would need to see other golfers who would usually benefit from the SGI iron types go through this to be on board. And who knows, maybe those Mavrik Max clubs are crap, never hit them myself. If people really think this has merit, then if you're in the market for some SGI irons, buy yourself a set of heavy old blades and see how that works out for you.
  4. Okay, first I said the distance would be more consistent referring to only the Max, not against the blade. Sure, more dots are better. But again what I said was 500 ball to get used to the club then 40 balls, and repeat with the other. It may seem obvious that he is only one person, but he presents himself as an expert so that what he says carries weight for many of his viewers (scary but true). You don't need a long disclaimer about it, maybe just title the video Do I Hit Blades better than Cavity Backs? Of course that's not the kind of click bait title that Golf Myths Busted is. Never said he was cherry picking, or it was random chance that he hit the blade better, have been trying to explain why he got the results he did. This is a case where the results are less important than what was behind them. Pretty sure I covered objectively why the results were what they were and what the value of those results were before I got into his video history. When "this guy" makes claims about debunking golf myths and that leads people to incorrect conclusions then yes I think it's okay to explore his tendencies and motivations. This I agree with completely.
  5. I'm not going to respond individually to every comment from above but here are my main points. 1. No argument with blade face being more consistent then high COR iron faces with more flex. Obviously, the amount of flex on a small surface area like an iron head will lead to larger variations on misses compared to a fixed face on the blade. 2. Sample size is super important, otherwise it's just a personal review. 3. Weight is so important for consistency within your set and people do have an ideal weight range for the clubs they use. Here we have Mark hitting with an 80g steel shaft in the Max against a 130g (guessing at exact weight) in the Top Flite. That 80g shaft is going to be an issue of him and obviously contributed to a lack of consistency at impact. Not even going to get into what the flex of that shaft may be contributing. 4. The Max was not designed for Mark, not in shape, weight, features, whatever. It's designed for slower, less consistent golfers who need help getting the ball in the air and hitting it farther. That same hot face would be much more consistent on distance if paired with a slower swing speed. 5. I've seen more than a few of this type of video from this guy. Sensationalism gets clicks, and yes it can even be entertaining but it should be viewed for what it is, more National Enquirer than Wall Street Journal.
  6. Disagree. One golfers statistics only makes the results valid for one golfer. Again, what he is coming from and used to, I believe makes a huge difference in how these results play out. Not to get into my personal issues with club fittings and all their shortcomings but how your body reacts to changes in feel (broad term "feel" meaning weight, balance, flex feel, sound etc.)from what you currently use, plays a major role in the results you see. Have him hit 500 balls with only that one club and then take the measurements, then 500 with the other and repeat.
  7. Needs bigger sample size. One professional golfer hitting is only useful for showing his personal results, not transferable to everyone. There are so many variables that aren't accounted for. I don't know what clubs he uses normally but I would guess they are closer to the blade in both look and weight. That will make a huge difference in the results. Show me this test using 4 irons and show me it using a golfer with a sub 100mph driver swing speed and let's see what the difference is then.
  8. I know this topic comes up here from time to time, and I think I mentioned something about this is a previous posting but here is a video showing how to build a portable grip station perfect for small spaces.
  9. Are the heads loose? That's my only possible thought about a sound issue. Maybe shaft damage?
  10. This totally sounds like a weight sorting difference between the two shafts, since someone mentioned a 3g difference between the two. Just like TT weight sorts out the DG shafts into 200, 300, and 400, when the shafts fall outside of the 2 gram tolerance, that is what is happening here. Shafts falling outside of tolerances, get put into a new category and sold as xp90. Just guessing but makes sense from what I know and what has been said here in the thread.
  11. I few grams of weight in the shaft won't make any real difference. Also as I haven't heard of the XP90 shaft, I am guessing it may actually be an XP95 that the club OEM requested changing the name on even though its the same shaft.
  12. Better. On your perfect struck hits, a little better. On your bigger mishits, way, way better. So your overall distance should go up significantly, your best drives may go up a lot or may only go up a smaller amount comparably speaking. There will be some adjustment time though because the new drivers usually have longer shaft lengths and lighter overall weights, so you may not see instant results until you get used to the club since you are coming from something as old as the 360. May want to check this video out after you get a new driver, it's a DIY Driver Fitting, that can help get the most out of a driver.
  13. The 360 was the most forgiving of the TM models released at that time (300, 320, 360), but is nowhere near as forgiving as a 460cc driver. TM still makes great drivers and if you liked the old ones most people still like the new ones. You can get a M2 driver off eBay for under $100 and that is a great driver, many say it's the greatest driver TM ever made even comparing it to the newest stuff. Can also get an M4 (one model newer) for around $150 and it's as solid and forgiving as anything out there today.
  14. Having someone else tell you how a shaft works is kind of like having someone else try on shoes for you. They can put them on and walk around but the experience can be vastly different for each person. So we are left with comparing the specs and then it's a matter of swinging it and see how it feels in relation to the rest of your bag. Assuming you are matching weights (most important spec), both shafts are also counterbalanced. Biggest difference on paper is the PO is a low launch shaft and the VA is billed as a high. Both say low spin but of course the VA will not be low spin if it's high launch as those things go hand in hand. Anyone claiming high launch/low spin is marketing bull. In most golfers hands the PO will "feel" more stout, but again this will be golfer specific to a large part based on speed, sequencing, and technique.
  15. I personally think the vise is the most important piece of equipment you can have in your shop. It is so versatile. Any other tool can be substituted for something else, but a good vise is like an extra pair of hands, that can't be hurt, and can hold strong. I've made a portable gripping setup before using a drill press vise (around $20) with a rubber shaft clamp ($3) and bolting the vise to a piece of plywood. Wood should be at least 1/2 inch thick and can be around 10-12 inches wide, but needs to be at least 32 inches long to accommodate woods. The trick with it is to brace it against a wall so you have something to push against. It can sit on top of a table or counter or a couple saw horses, but needs sit with the end against a wall. This way you can regrip anywhere and be able to apply some pressure need be without worrying about things sliding or shifting.
  16. Not sure I can name too many players who actually go stiffer in the wedges then the rest of the irons. The typical transition is either to run the same shaft through the set, or drop the flex a touch but go heavier in the wedges, ie DG X100 into S400. Of course KBS makes this transition difficult since they weight/flex match their shaft sets. That being said, if all your wedges are the same model, I would put the same shaft in all of them for consistency. At least that's what I would do. If you need to change distance gaps, just bend down the 52 a degree or so. Way better to gap using loft, as opposed to trying to squeeze out tiny changes with shafts.
  17. At 6'4 I would look at probably 1 inch over standard as a starting point. Any more than that gets really unwieldy. Something forgiving from Callaway preowned would be a good starting point, as you know you are getting legit stuff usually in better condition than what they claim. Also would want something with midsize or larger grips as that makes a big difference, maybe more than anything else when fitting for bigger golfers. If you want to spend more you can go and get a basic fitting for new clubs from any of the big box stores. They can at least get you close on length, grip size, flex, set make up, and get it ordered from the manufacturer.
  18. Yes, 9.5 would play 11 on the F9 head. You are down lofting so you are actually going to be opening the face, not closing it.
  19. I think the F8 and before actually have lofts written on the adapter so no, you will have to add 1.5 to that number for the F9 since it's lofted 1.5 higher. The F9 and newer have the loft printed on the head and the adapter says something like "higher" or "lower" I think.
  20. It comes off really easily. The rubber cement just peels off with the grip often or it can be peeled off the shaft if it didn't stay with the grip. Trying to remember back who, but at least one of the OEMs used some sort of cement to do all their grips from the factory. May have been Cleveland? This was years ago now.
  21. If you don't have the tools at home, try this. Works surprisingly well.
  22. Every raw shaft you buy needs to be cut down to length. They all start long. Fujikura stock length is 47in. Almost all other brands are 46, but in any case you will need to cut it down. Different drivers have different bottom bore depths so each driver will require a little different cut to get the same final playing length. Sounds like you have the measuring part down now. As far as shaft recommendations, you will just need to go try a few and see what feels good and what gives good numbers for your swing. May want to try a couple different weights as that is going to make the biggest difference. 2 other points. Don't think that a different shaft is going to help you when swinging harder. It's you, not the shaft that causes misses. When you swing harder, your timing and sequencing goes out of wack and that is why the ball goes where you don't want it to. The shaft only does what you make it do. It is possible that certain shaft specs may help you keep everything better timed when swinging harder but a bad swing can't be saved by a shaft, only mitigated. Lastly, don't worry about torque numbers. This is the last shaft spec anyone should be looking at. I would pick shafts based on color scheme before I base a decision on torque measurements. Get the weight, balance point, profile and flex that works well for you, and whatever torque number goes with that particular shaft is good.
  23. Is this a Burner Bubble shaft from back 25 years ago. They had an enormous butt end and really could only use 1 of 2 specific Taylormade grips that had the matching inside diameter at the butt end. Any other grip would give you a crazy tapered result with a super thick butt. We used to have a tool specific to installing these grips, not sure if its still available today. Scratch that. Just found it on Golfworks. The ultimate grip installer tool. Like Boogielicious said, at this point you probably will only be able to find .620 grips that might work on some level. You might be able to locate some of the TM Bubble grips on Ebay, but not sure you can buy them individually. Stay away from multi material and corded grips as they give less. Also make sure the grips aren't cold.
  24. This would do the job. Like I said, get a machine screw and couple washers and you can do hosel adapters also. Value Shaft Extractor THE GOLFWORKS - VALUE SHAFT EXTRACTOR, VALUE SHAFT EXTRACTOR, Golf Heads, Golf Reheading, Head Extractor, Golf Epoxy, Heading Epoxy, Golf Head Epoxy, Maltby Heads, Maltbie Heads, Ralph... Also if you need a quick video on how to do it, here you go. The shaft puller is different but the technique will be the same.
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