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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. In my opinion, the shafts are getting more credit than they deserve recently. Shaft OEMs put out new designs every season now just like the club OEMs. The shaft is only capable of doing a couple things, that being adding loft and closing the face, and both of these are pretty minimal and very dependent on the golfers swing. If you find a shaft that you like, don't assume you need to upgrade to a newer version. If it ain't broke.
  2. That yellow is a whole different ball of wax with the counter balancing. Going to feel very different. Sounds like you gravitate towards the classic blue board soft mid profile. You won't hear me bad mouth any Mitsu shaft, but you could also try a Graphite Design AD IZ, or one of the Fuji Atmos Blue or Speeder Evo shafts. Again though, all these shafts are going to be pretty similar. You may see slight differences during a fitting, hitting them back to back, but that will often level out over time as your swing adjusts to the shaft. I would really focus on trying a few different weights. If you are in 60g now, try a 67g and maybe a 75g and see what happens. The weight is always going to have a larger impact than the small differences in bend profile, especially if you are looking within a certain profile type.
  3. They are very similar profile wise, if you can hit one, you can hit the other. Most important thing is to get the weight correct. All that other stuff is of secondary importance. Two points though, the shaft isn't going to keep the ball from going left, but the feel of a certain shaft may influence your swing such that it causes you to release the head early or change your path. Unfortunately that is not going to be apparent from looking at specs or asking other people their experience. You need to hit it and see. Second, be aware that the entire idea of mid launch low spin, is little more that marketing hype. Launch and spin are directly related. If you have a higher launching shaft, you will likewise have more spin, and vise versa.
  4. Again, that line angle is not 1 to 1. It's really almost 10 degrees per degree of change in lie, so even if you can't quite get the line perfect, the result will be more than adequate for 99% of golfers. I have faith that most golfers can do this lie check on their own. Honestly, everyone should do this at least once a year to make sure everything is close to where it should be. If it looks a little off, then you can go to a reputable club builder, fitter or teaching pro and have them double check.
  5. If a person isn't able to get a line pointing in a relatively straight up and down position, I don't know how they are going to be able to play this game. Alignment, be it with a driver, iron, or putter requires a certain amount of not only hand eye coordination but also geometric visualization. If you can read the break on a putt, you can get a line facing perpendicular to the ground and check your lie angle.
  6. I promise it's not difficult. I use it all the time. If you ever use a line on the ball to line up putts, it's no different. If you are really worried you can use a ball sleeve or golf glove package to check your right angles. You don't need a professional fitter or expensive equipment, you can do it yourself with very good accuracy.
  7. Actually not hard at all. The measurements are not 1 to 1 when you look at the face mark. Don't ask me why as I can't give you the exact reason but it actually comes out to closer to 1/4 inch at the top end of the mark where you would measure from. So if the top of the mark is 1/4 to the toe side of the club, that would equal 1 degree flat bending.
  8. Go ahead and check your lie angles yourself and then circle back around to what you are doing in your swing. This will at least give you the confidence that your clubs are correct. Use a sharpie test and check your lie angles. Draw a line on the ball about an inch long with a sharpie or dry erase marker. Set the ball on the ground with the line perpendicular to the ground with it pointing at your club face (ie away from your target). Hit a couple balls this way with each club and take note where the line imprint is pointing on the club's face. Straight up and down means lie is good. If it's at an angle then you need to adjust your lie angle. Remember when you do this make sure you are hitting on flat turf or the results are junk. Also I like to hit off a mat versus turf as the turf can rub the marker line off the face. It's easier said than done but try not to worry about how the club sits at set up, only worry about impact. FYI, the main reason for the change in lie angle during the swing has less to do with the toe droop effect and more to do with your hands raising at impact. The centrifugal force pulls the club head and therefore your hands away from your body changing the necessary lie angle. My guess as to what you are experiencing is you are raising your hands at set up to level the club head lie, but you are also unknowingly standing further away from the ball when you do. Once you get to impact your body moves into it's natural impact position which is now further away from the ball, leading to toe and thin hits.
  9. The steel shafts are simple to pull, can just heat them and pull off the adapters with some pliers. The graphite shafts you would want to use a shaft puller to remove the shaft in a straight line if you were planning to use them again.
  10. Selling fitting iron shafts will be basically useless since they are all 6 iron shafts I am guessing. Unless you have a random person who needs to match up a 6 iron shaft and would then be okay with removing the adapter for reshaft. Lot of work for a $20-$40 shaft. If you have some driver fitting shafts, and remove the fitting adapters, then you can actually get some morey for them.
  11. As long as he can square the club face at impact and he gets enough height with the driver, the stiffer shaft will not be an issue. A more flexible shaft allows the head to close and add loft easier, while the stiffer shaft requires the player to do those things. Assuming everything else is equal with the shaft specs, going stiffer will not hurt him.
  12. 15 minutes to an hour depending on the temperature. If it's colder, wait longer.
  13. I would start by bending a couple of your irons if you want to go down this road and see what the result look like. Those clubs should not have any issues bending a couple degrees down and need be back to spec if you don't like them. The lower lofts will usually only be an issue in the longer irons where you might see more hook or slice spin. The bounce you will just have to try and see if it causes any issues with your AoA.
  14. There are certain golfers who may see a difference in path from changes in the swing weight, or total weight of a club. Sometimes a lighter or heavier club may help the golfer move the club into the correct position. If you have the heavier weights, I say give it a try. No loss if it doesn't work.
  15. If you are wanting a new driver, TaylorMade is never a bad option. They have made arguably the top drivers for decades now. I mean all the current model drivers the last couple years have been very solid, but TaylorMade rarely missteps on them. M6 will be higher and straighter launching, M5 will be more workable and maybe a bit less forgiving.
  16. That site is a sham. Pretty sure it's just one guy with way over inflated credentials.
  17. Just FYI, there are still reputable dealers on Ebay but you have to do your homework. Be able to track a seller back to a source is key, do internet searches of the seller, and check what they have been selling previously. Again you can find legit dealers through OEM sites, even some Ebay based ones will be on there. Couple simple rules for spotting fakes and bad dealers: Be wary of any seller with either too few reviews, or many reviews but only over a short time. Anything coming directly from oversees is suspect. Bad grammer. Not always the case but if the seller can't put together simple sentences might want to stay away. Any post showing a generic image of an item and not the specific one mentioned, I think is super shady. Finally, good old "If it seems too good to be true... If you think you bought a fake follow your ears and nose. Fakes usually will sound different, although with things like putters it can be hard to tell. And if the club has a chemical smell usually coming from grip, good chance it's fake.
  18. Golf is littered with fake drivers, but also fairway woods, irons and putters. This has been an issue for decades. This is why they say you should buy only from recognized OEM retailers. If you go to any OEM website, they will have a list somewhere of official retailers.
  19. Totally agree with keeping them standard length to start with. Can always grip down when they are long, but can't go the opposite way. Bending Pings is difficult at best and don't assume you will be able to have it done easily. May have to send back to Ping if you want them bent after the fact but they can do it.
  20. You are probably low on the out the door price you could quickly end up with if you buy from them. Figure $125 for the fitting, that may or may not be credited back to the purchase price based on the fitting company. Driver head will be $450-$550. Shafts will probably be in the $300-$450 range as to what they recommend. Also they will tack on a $30 shaft PUREing charge and another $10 for the grip often. I have heard many people walk out with a $900 driver recommendation. My advise, go get fit, get the info for what seemed to be working well for you. Don't just look for one perfect shaft, look for shaft traits that seem to work with your swing. Most important element of a shaft is the weight, followed by balance point. After that shaft consistency, then bend profile. At the very bottom is torque. Find the right shaft weight and you are most of the way there. Then you can take those specs, along with the head type and related specs and go a few different ways. You can order the club new and find a stock or upgrade option that matches well against your fitting results. Or you can buy the head and shaft separately on eBay or a good golf forum. If you really feel the need to spend $900, to have a custom built driver then go ahead, in the end it's your money. Personally I don't think there is a golf club on the planet worth that.
  21. I will go ahead and answer your question you are asking. The X line is different in 3 ways from the standard Rogue, all of which are designed purely to up the distance. First, the X line is physically longer by 1/4 inch over the Rogue. Figure the standard Rogue is also a bit long (talking static length here) to start with so the X could be considered 1/2 inch over standard. Second, the lofts are around 3 degrees stronger than the Rogue line (and the Rogue line is pretty strong to begin with). Third, the X line is 3 points lighter on the swing weight scale. Now as far as I can recall the shaft options are the same for both, so that means that the X line has a much lighter headweight. The first two differences probably won't make any difference as to which you like more, but the SW difference would be the one I would be most concerned with. With your current game as you described it, I would think the light weight shouldn't bother you. The other consideration is if the club does end up feeling light, you can always add some lead tape to the head to increase that feel. You can't however go the other way if it's too heavy in the case of the standard Rogues.
  22. Lofted fairway woods are usually going to be more forgiving than lower lofted hybrids and this is even more likely to be the case if your swing speed is on the slower side.
  23. The SE shaft I believe is around 80 grams and mid launch. Really nothing special about it. Again, get the weight close and you are going to usually be pretty good.
  24. 3M brand is a good one for epoxy. The DP420 two part is used by many OEMs. When it comes down to it, most 2 part epoxies will work as long as they have a lap/shear strength of 2500-4000 psi.
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