delav

There are places that can recondition wedges and irons, but it's usually fairly pricey for what your are after. It may be worth checking out a groove sharper to breath new life into older grooves.

I've read this 3 times and I'm still very confused.

While it can be true that too soft of a shaft will tend to miss left, and too firm will miss right, it's very likely that this isn't the real problem. Unless the weight and stiffness are prohibiting you from feeling the position of the clubhead in your swing (not terribly common with many off the shelf combos), this is likely the wrong route at this point. If you're swing path is across the target line, changing out the shaft is unlikely to help straighten your drive. Before spending $100+ on a fitting, shaft and install, make sure you take a lesson with a good pro in your area. Once you've developed a strong path into the ball, you'll really benefit from a proper fitting.

That seems like a pretty fishy scenario. Unfortunately, feedback can be inflated and synthesized in some cases. Read the feedback comments and see if it looks like feedback was provided for legit and specific items. What is the price? Can you post the listing?

Very cool technology. I look forward to hearing more as you get a few rounds under your belt. Perhaps an Edel will be a reward at a later date :)

I think for range use a backup wedge would be fine. The difference in spin wouldn't harm trajectory or distance a noticeable amount (more than a range ball would). Pitching and chipping into an actual green would certainly be a different story however.

I'll often hit 2 or 3 buckets of range balls during a practice day, but I'll usually spend 15 or 20 minutes between buckets chipping and putting. This helps me strech, relax and identify what I'm working on. What the pro was referring to are the numerous players who bang balls without a purpose. It's easy to let bad habits creep in when practice lacks direction and focus. I too will sometimes hit a whole bucket with an 8-iron. I like working on shaping the ball left and right to a wide variety of distances. Lately, I've been focusing on doing so with more body turn and less hands, which has really helped my ball striking and distance control. Keep it up!

Wes, I appreciate your attitude quite a bit in this thread. Breaking 80 is a silly goal but it seems like you understand this, as well as the crazy amount of work required to get there. I hope the practicing goes well, and that the blisters quickly turn to callouses for you (the worst part of excessive range time). Keep up the hard work. If the end result is a solid sub-90 round, I think it'll be reason enough to celebrate.

If you're experienced with a dremel you could clean that up, but you'll certainly be removing material to do so. I'd probably find someone who has professional experience refurbishing clubs. There are cheaper alternatives than sending it to the Scotty Spa.

I was told that most mizuno hybrids can be lie-adjusted. For what it's worth, the right hybrid and shaft should help you achieve the results you're looking for. I currently play a 16 degree with a lower-launching 95g X shaft and can hit this a wide variety of trajectories.

Post a video of your swing if you can. Different drivers will have differing lengths, overall weights, swing weights, flex characteristics, etc... Did you hit this driver before you bought it?

Quote: The Pixl insert reduces the variance in ball speed from mis-hit putts so the ball will still roll out the same distance. Thanks for all the great info on Edel. Very cool to see something other than the website. Do you have any understand of how/why this works? You don't strike me as someone to take something at face-value because it was said... what's the engineering here?

I agree with phillyk. Rather than reinventing the wheel, try the easy stuff first. Play the ball back, choke down and be sure to hit the shot with the shaft leaning forward.

This thread is 4 years old.

To the OP, if you're looking for a standard loft/lie R graphite set, did you consider the Burner 1.0? Seems to me this could have been a great way to save $400.

Can I take Sergio for rounds 1 and 2, and Choi for the weekend?

Shorty was commenting on how these threads tend to degenerate into a "you should buy the driver I'm playing" type of conversation.

I saw this segment as well. There have been several instances where Martin Hall instructs to aggressively roll the wrists through impact. While this is one way to hit a draw, it's certainly not what I'd advocate.

Sounds like your 'normal swing' is OTI, across the target line. As a result, when you try to draw the ball (squaring the face to the swing path) you end up with straight shot, likely left of target (or well left of alignment). Most pros and better players who play a fade will still approach the ball from the inside. To hit a draw you need to work on hitting the ball slightly inside at the 7:00 position (if 12:00 and 6:00 are your target line).

Man... so this is why I shot an 81 last night. If only the last 15 years of playing and practice weren't wasted with incorrect intentions!

You could also consider a mixed set of 63s and 68s, giving you the best of both. As far as shaft flex is concerned, be sure to try several options which are firmer than the S300. What is your 6 iron distance? I am currently playing the PX 6.5 in my irons, which I have been told is slightly firmer than the X100 from True Temper. For what it's worth, my 6 iron carry is around 195 yards. Compared to the S300s in my last set, these are much tighter in dispersion, even on missed shots.

Both the R11 and Titleist 910 D2/D3 are great drivers to consider. In addition, both will allow you to customize loft/lie/face angle as well as experiment with shafts. The Superfast is also worth checking out, and last years TP can now be had on the cheap. I really liked the 1.0 Superfast when I tried it several times. Don't discount Cobra, Adams or Cleveland though... there are a ton of good drivers out there. Get out there and win!

The clubs look like the Vokey CC wedges I own (I have those exact models), however that is no assurance that they are indeed legitimate products. I'd be curious if that is how Titleist wraps their wedges destined for golf shops/retailers, perhaps you could compare with a shop that has a few that are still packaged? In any event, the serial # is a good starting point. How many transactions does the seller have?

Yep. I keep convincing myself that I don't need a set, only to arrive at eBay again scouting for a deal. It seems like a unique club, hard to fine a forged cavity that looks better regardless of price. How do you like them?

These aren't 'blades' but you'll certainly know when you do and don't hit them: http://cgi.ebay.com/Cleveland-TA3-Form-Forged-Iron-set-Golf-Club-/120728491347?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item1c1bfa9553#ht_500wt_1156 Picking up something from many decades past with strange loft/lie/length, old shafts and grips may be less helpful than a more modern players club. That is not to say I subscribe to the idea that practicing with a muscleback is a valid improvement strategy to begin with.