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working the ball

Ryanrocksfender
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Ryanrocksfender Well Established Member

Ryanrocksfender

so i went to a local vacant field and was hitting some balls with my 8 iron... i asked my instructor a week ago about working the ball he said i should expierment with it...so thats what i did i learned how to hit a draw i did it by closing the stance with my hands infront of the ball and just made my normal swing... this worked... so then i tried a fade by opening the stance and every shot just went straight. anyone got tips on hitting the fade?

in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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right handed phil mickelson Great Member

right handed phil mickelson

For a shot to go left or right, it has to have side spin. Now depending on how far left or right you want it to go, is how much side spin you put on the ball. For the draw, you kind of closed everything up which worked well. What happened was the ball "slid" along the closed face of the club.

When the club face is square, the ball hits one part of the face and bounces off, with no side spin. When the club face is closed or open, the ball hits one part of the face and "slides" along the face, afterwards bouncing off. This sliding gives the ball the side spin to draw or fade. The reason you are not fading it is because your face is not open enough for the ball to slide along it to get the side spin.

If you don't get what I'm talking about, then take a ball, and take your hand and make it straight like this |

Put the ball on the table and make a straight path back and through with your hand straight. The ball goes forward hitting only one part of your hand. Now open your hand like this /

Do the same thing but go slower so the ball stays on your hand for longer. See how it hits in the same spot and then slides up your hand? That gives it the side spin to draw or fade. Try and open the clubface more at setup, and that should help. Have Fun!

~RHPM

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha Diablo 9º
2 Hybrid: Callaway Big Bertha Heavenwood
Irons: Nike Slingshot OSS 6-3 iron
          Taylormade Tour Preferred PW-7 iron
Wedges: Cleveland CG14 50º, 54º
              Taylormade RAC 58º
Putter: Ping Darby 32" shaft


 

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boilermaker711 Member

boilermaker711

Pick a new target left of your desired target and then open the club face so that it is square to your desired target. Make a normal swing to the new target keeping a strong grip with your left hand so that the club does not turn over. This will result in a ball flight that will start out to the left and the right hand spin on the ball will carry it to the right. Good luck!
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Ryanrocksfender Well Established Member

Ryanrocksfender

  • Author
i think one of my problems is that im using GI irons witch have offset so its kinda hard to get the face open!

in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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JGulkCG Well Established Member

JGulkCG

i think one of my problems is that im using GI irons witch have offset so its kinda hard to get the face open!

at an 18 handicap, i wouldnt worry about working the ball. No offense. just something that should be left for when you hit single digits.

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shankapotamus Dedicated Member

shankapotamus

You can tube Jack Nicklaus swing tip 2, and that has a basic way to working the ball for higher handicaps.

A quote from Kris
...is that college bball really isn't "lower tier". The better teams have their rosters filled with guys who could play in the NBA. hell, guys used to come straight from high school to the NBA. I really don't think there's much of a difference skill-wise between the two.

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ryohazuki222 Dedicated Member

ryohazuki222

my argument is that the higher your handicap the more beneficial it is to work the ball on purpose.

you have to hit a lot of trouble shots around trees as a high handicap!!

Driver: Tour Burner 9.5° Stock Stiff
Wood: Tour Burner TS 13° Stock Stiff
Hybrid: Tour Burner T2 18° Stock Stiff
Irons: Tour Preferred 3-PW Rifle Project X 6.0
Wedges: 54.10|58.08 Z TP Rifle Spinner 5.5 Putter: VP Mills VP2 Ball: TP/Red.LDP Bag: Warbird Hot Stand Bag 2.0Started playing...

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Eeryck Well Established Member

Eeryck

I think trying to understand how to work the ball is important at all levels.

For instance, I have worked quite a bit so that my stock shot is a slight draw, this happens with a stance parallel to the target line and an in-to-out swing with a good release.

One of my misses if I tense up in the swing is a shot that starts slight right and curves slight right (2y-5y). What basically happened is the tension held off the release for me and left the face open through impact instead of turning the club over for a draw.

What this taught me is that, if I simply open my stance to the left and make this swing and actively holding the release of for a moment I can play a 2y-5y cut shot.

I am not terribly good at working the ball in the cut direction yet, as I don't need it that often right now and it is low on my practice priority

The open/close stance / aim club face at target method was not that effective for me last time I experimented with it, my swing has gotten quite a bit more repeatable since then so I may give it a whirl again soon.

Making a decision to make my go to shot a draw, allows my miss to be primarily a straight shot. Working it the other way well is going to take a back seat to short game for the rest of the summer though. I can let it rest though because I know how it will work for me.

In my Grom bag:

Driver........... Burner 9.5* S-Flex
3-Wood......... Burner 15* S-Flex
5-Wood......... Ovation 18* S-FlexIrons............. Pro Combos 3,5-PW Rifle 6.0Wedges......... CG12 52.10, 56.14, 60.10Putter............ 33" VP1 Milled PutterBall................ e6+ or B330-SRangefinder.....

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BigBoy Established Member

BigBoy

anyone got tips on hitting the fade?

take a trip to a local public driving range and take note of all the hackers "fading" the ball 30-40 yards and copy their swings -

In the bag:
Driver - FT-9 10* Stock Stiff Fujikura
3Wood - X 3W Stock Stiff Callaway Graphite Shaft
Hybrids - X Hybrids 21*, 24*, 27* uniflex steel shaft
Irons - X-22 irons 6-PW uniflex steel shaftWedges - X Forged Chrome Wedges: 52*, 56*, 60*Putter - White Hot XG #9Ball - Tour ix or TP...
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SpringBokVol Well Established Member

SpringBokVol

I have two bits of advice...

As you make contact keep your left wrist straight and hold off on your follow through. Finish with your hands high above your head.

In my bag:
Driver: R5 TP Diamana 83s Shaft
Fairway: Burner 15 degree Fujikura REAX
Hybrid: Custom 19 degree
Irons: DCI 990 S300 4-PW

Wedges: NF 52.04*, Spin Milled 56.10* and 60.08*

Putter: Red X3

Ball: ProV1

Shoe: Tour 360 LTD

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right handed phil mickelson Great Member

right handed phil mickelson

Ha thats some good advice. Every single person over 20 handicap that I've played with has a slice/fade shot. Every time.

Driver: Callaway Big Bertha Diablo 9º
2 Hybrid: Callaway Big Bertha Heavenwood
Irons: Nike Slingshot OSS 6-3 iron
          Taylormade Tour Preferred PW-7 iron
Wedges: Cleveland CG14 50º, 54º
              Taylormade RAC 58º
Putter: Ping Darby 32" shaft


 

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ryohazuki222 Dedicated Member

ryohazuki222

It should also be noted that if you understand how to work the ball ON PURPOSE.... you can better understand and fix working the ball ON ACCIDENT (slices.... etc)

Driver: Tour Burner 9.5° Stock Stiff
Wood: Tour Burner TS 13° Stock Stiff
Hybrid: Tour Burner T2 18° Stock Stiff
Irons: Tour Preferred 3-PW Rifle Project X 6.0
Wedges: 54.10|58.08 Z TP Rifle Spinner 5.5 Putter: VP Mills VP2 Ball: TP/Red.LDP Bag: Warbird Hot Stand Bag 2.0Started playing...

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Ryanrocksfender Well Established Member

Ryanrocksfender

  • Author
none taken but my instructor told me to start working on it...

in my bag
hibore xls 9.5* S flex
sumo2 sasquatch 3 wood 15*
a2os 3 hybrid
sc2 4-pw mpt raw haze 52* 588 56* wedge xtour PM grind 60* cleveland classic #2

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wrx_junki Great Member

wrx_junki

I have two bits of advice...

This is how I do it when I attempt a cut. I still don't have the distances dialed in when I hit the cut shots.

« Keith »

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Brakkus Dedicated Member

Brakkus

Ha thats some good advice. Every single person over 20 handicap that I've played with has a slice/fade shot. Every time.

We haven't played but I occasionally struggle with a hook.I sliced for about the first 6 months until I went down the Mike LaBauve,Jim Hardy route.

I can hit a fade just by opening the club face as you say but I like to rely on my natural draw.I will actually cut the ball on much shorter distances with my wedges as they just stop dead where they land. I like working the ball in practice but will only shape the ball if I have too.If there's line of sight to the flag it's rinse and repeat with a stock draw shot.

"Repetition is the chariot of genius"

Driver: BENROSS VX PROTO 10.5
Woods: BENROSS QUAD SPEED FAIRWAY 15"
Hybrids:BENROSS 3G 17" BENROSSV5 Escape 20"
Irons: :wilson: DEEP RED Fluid Feel  4-SW
Putter: BENROSS PURE RED
Balls: :wilsonstaff:  Ti DNA

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