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Hi guys, I need a bit of advice: I've been playing the VR pro combos for a year now and my game seems to - if anything - be getting worse. Mostly it's consistency of shots and it's starting to affect my handicap in the wrong direction! I'm looking at the AP1 712's for a bit more forgiveness, but should I just persevere with the VR's? It's really getting me down because I'm struggling to post a decent score. Martin

Cobra AMP 9.5* driver Nike VR Pro 15* 3W Nike VR 19* 5W Titleist AP1 irons 4-PW Nike VR Pro wedges 50.10 56.10 - Nike VR wedge 58.10 Scotty Cameron Newport 2 putter Pro V1x ball

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very rarely is it the clubs,...its most likely the player (no offense)

presumeably your struggling with the irons, in what respect are you struggling with these? and have you had them custom fitted to you?

could be something simple as to short a shaft, to soft a shaft, wrong lie angle etc

before you start swapping big bux and lots of clubs cover all aspects of "what is wrong"

I rarely hit a bad shot and look down at my club thinking i need a new one cus that ones rubbish,..

perhaps some lessons are in order,

:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style

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No offence taken! From 8 iron in I'm happy with my game, it's anything from 7 iron upwards. I'm currently having lessons a couple of times a month but I just can't seem to hit my mid to long irons consistently. It might be worth getting my lie angles re checked but I'm not sure that's the issue. Obviously the Nikes are a better club and harder to hit, whereas the AP1's will give that bit more forgiveness on the miss hits. I don't want to spend money that I don't need to, but would like my handicap to start moving in the right direction again!

Cobra AMP 9.5* driver Nike VR Pro 15* 3W Nike VR 19* 5W Titleist AP1 irons 4-PW Nike VR Pro wedges 50.10 56.10 - Nike VR wedge 58.10 Scotty Cameron Newport 2 putter Pro V1x ball

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whats the bad shot with the 7 iron and up?

:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style

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I am not a huge fan of using clubs to fix golfer's problems, unless they have an injury in which something like offset would help them. Other than that, fix the swing. When i buy irons its basically Feel & Look for me, then shaft options for the price. If i like a club a ton i could custom shaft the clubs if need be. Right now Callaway offers the best options for stock shafts for me...

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

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Your a 21 capper playing blade combos those are also known as a very difficult club to hit. Idk but id reccomend getting something easier to hit. Unless ur trying to go pro those clubs will ne more fustrating then anything
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Originally Posted by blankwall

Your a 21 capper playing blade combos those are also known as a very difficult club to hit. Idk but id reccomend getting something easier to hit. Unless ur trying to go pro those clubs will ne more fustrating then anything

i thought blade combos meant the low irons (that the guy is striking well) are full blades, and the longer irons (that he is struggline with) are cavities?

:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style

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Originally Posted by carpediem4300

i thought blade combos meant the low irons (that the guy is striking well) are full blades, and the longer irons (that he is struggline with) are cavities?

I think they are still harder to hit overall.  I would bet a switch to a forgiving game improvement iron would help this guy's confidence quite a bit.  I've seen guys really turn their games around by dropping the players irons and picking up more forgiving irons.  I'm sure there are swing issues, but those pro combos are for someone that strikes the ball consistently well.

Driver:  Callaway Diablo Octane 9.5*
3W:  Callaway GBB II 12.5*, 5W:  Callaway Diablo 18* Neutral
3H:  Callaway Razr X, 4H:  Callaway Razr X
5-PW:  Callaway X Tour
GW:  Callaway X Tour 54*, SW:  Callaway X Tour 58*
Putter:  Callaway ITrax, Scotty Cameron Studio Design 2, Ping Anser 4

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im playing to 16 with MB's,...and i am far from consistent,.....just saying

PS: not trying to start the MB v B v CB argument all over again :P

:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style

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Originally Posted by carpediem4300

im playing to 16 with MB's,...and i am far from consistent,.....just saying

PS: not trying to start the MB v B v CB argument all over again :P

Hey if you feel the benefits of a muscleback outweigh the detractors then that's the right club for you.  Regarding the OP...most new golfers do not see many benefits from a muscleback iron.  Definitely not enough to outweigh the added forgiveness of a game improvement iron.

Driver:  Callaway Diablo Octane 9.5*
3W:  Callaway GBB II 12.5*, 5W:  Callaway Diablo 18* Neutral
3H:  Callaway Razr X, 4H:  Callaway Razr X
5-PW:  Callaway X Tour
GW:  Callaway X Tour 54*, SW:  Callaway X Tour 58*
Putter:  Callaway ITrax, Scotty Cameron Studio Design 2, Ping Anser 4

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If u want a players iron look at something like callaway x forged. Very forgiving het still look nice. I looked at that cpmbo when i was buying irons and they were super toufh to hit and i consider myself a good ball striker
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i guess what i was hankering at is it all depends what the OP wants from his game

A crappy shot off the toe of my MB is gunna hurt and go nowhere, a crappy shot off the toe of GI or SGI club is going to be 100 times less painfull, and will go somewhere relative to the target, thus saving the OP strokes in comparison

So the clubs improved his score, not his actual skill level,...

I dont think there is any correlation in skill level versus the type of club you play, wether it be a blade or SGI cavety,...a good shot is good a bad is bad

the reason i personally chose MB is cus everyone told me not to, and i was determined to prove them wrong, which i have, but only by practice and lessons, not because the club is necesarily any better than what my buddies use

:tmade: Driver: TM Superfast 2.0 - 9.5degree - Reg flex
:mizuno: 3 Wood: JPX800 - 16* Exhsar5 Stiff
:mizuno: 3 - PW: MP-67 Cut Muscle back - S300 stiff
:slazenger: Sand Wedge: 54degree, 12degree bounce
:slazenger: Lob Wedge: 60degree 10degree bounce
:ping: Putter: Karsten 1959 Anser 2 Toe weighted
:mizuno: Bag - Cart Style

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Playing a mixed set having the MB/CB turning point being the 7 iron is about right.

Question: Is the 7 a MB or CB?

If it's a CB, for a very low swing speed the 6/7 can be the cutoff point . By this I mean no club hits any further . It's time for "A" or "L" shafts and a major re-thinking of the game. This is not an MB vs CB situation - it's speed.

Lie angles are important.

Then again these may not be the right clubs for you. Try others and see what happens.

"Quick Dorthy....the oil can!"

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In the Nike the 8 is the last blade and the rest are cavity backs or pocket cavity. Obviously since he hits the blades well, the solution is to get blades in the 7 and 6 irons Now I know nothing of the OP game, but if he can hit a 8.5 degree driver and get some height, I am thinking his swing speed is high enough to hit a solid 5 or 6 iron. Obviously that driver could be messed up and he would be better off with a 10.5 but I am hoping he was fit for that club. And without knowing his mishit, it is hard to say if more forgiving clubs would help a lot. If you are hitting the shot super fat or leaving the face open, it doesn't matter a whole lot how forgiving the club is.

Why does your instructor say you are struggling with the mid irons? How are you hitting the hybrid?

Originally Posted by The Tin Man

Playing a mixed set having the MB/CB  turning point being the 7 iron is about right.

Question: Is the 7 a MB or CB?

If it's a CB, for a very low swing speed the 6/7 can be the cutoff point. By this I mean no club hits any further. It's time for "A" or "L" shafts and a major re-thinking of the game. This is not an MB vs CB situation - it's speed.

Lie angles are important.

Then again these may not be the right clubs for you. Try others and see what happens.

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Note: This thread is 4373 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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