Shaft Installation Troubleshooting

[Andrew21284]

Replaced ferrules on Titleist 712 AP2 irons. First time doing - practiced on old clubs - no problems....did first 4 clubs, perfect. Last 3 clubs to do, head won’t stay seated against ferrule and pops up, heard pop noise when trying to seat completely against ferrule...using GW Pro Epoxy packets 1:1 - was stored in 65 degree room. Clubs were taken apart in basement - approx 10 degrees cooler 2 days prior. All shafts and heads were in same Temperature element and 3 of the clubs have this issue, while first 2 I installed went smoothly...prepped correctly - bored debris out of head, scuffed shaft tip - all properly per Maltby book. What is wrong?

[billchao]

On 3/12/2020 at 6:17 PM, Andrew21284 said:

Replaced ferrules on Titleist 712 AP2 irons. First time doing - practiced on old clubs - no problems....did first 4 clubs, perfect. Last 3 clubs to do, head won’t stay seated against ferrule and pops up, heard pop noise when trying to seat completely against ferrule...using GW Pro Epoxy packets 1:1 - was stored in 65 degree room. Clubs were taken apart in basement - approx 10 degrees cooler 2 days prior. All shafts and heads were in same Temperature element and 3 of the clubs have this issue, while first 2 I installed went smoothly...prepped correctly - bored debris out of head, scuffed shaft tip - all properly per Maltby book. What is wrong?

Did you clean out the old epoxy from the inside of the shaft? It sounds like either air or excess epoxy is being trapped and the pressure is pushing the head off.

[boogielicious]

On 3/12/2020 at 6:17 PM, Andrew21284 said:

Replaced ferrules on Titleist 712 AP2 irons. First time doing - practiced on old clubs - no problems....did first 4 clubs, perfect. Last 3 clubs to do, head won’t stay seated against ferrule and pops up, heard pop noise when trying to seat completely against ferrule...using GW Pro Epoxy packets 1:1 - was stored in 65 degree room. Clubs were taken apart in basement - approx 10 degrees cooler 2 days prior. All shafts and heads were in same Temperature element and 3 of the clubs have this issue, while first 2 I installed went smoothly...prepped correctly - bored debris out of head, scuffed shaft tip - all properly per Maltby book. What is wrong?

My process:

1. Remove heads from shafts and clean out the head using a wire bristle brush on my drill head.  Golfworks has these.
2. make sure all the old epoxy is out. I used acetone and a q-tip and a straight metal pick. Really make sure it is clean. The brush helps a lot.
3. Sand the new shaft tip using plumbers sand paper. This tape can by ripped off in strips. I make mine about 1/2” thick and 8” long. I put the shaft in a vise when I do this.
4. My basement is cold, so I warm up the epoxy in water that is 90 degrees from the tap. It takes about 30 minutes.
5. If reusing a shaft, I remove the epoxy and shaft weight in the tip and clean out the inside. The brush works for this too.
6. If the grip is still on, I poke a hole in the tape under the grip so air will flow out during assembly. If you don’t do this, the head will pop off because you will be compressing the air inside that needs to escape.
7. I dry fit the shafts to make sure it is going all the way in. Measure the depth and make sure the tip is going all the way. Do this with the swing weight in if using one.
8. during the dry fit, take the ferrule and lie is over the end of the hosel to see where it should end up. I mark this with a marker. Don’t put the ferrule on until ready to epoxy.
9. When I’m ready, I get all the parts on the bench.
10. I mix the epoxy for 1 minute.
11. if adding a swing weight, I put epoxy on it and insert into the shaft. Put a dab of epoxy on for the ferrule.
12. I put the ferrule on and spin it to move the expose around.
13. You can then push the ferrule on using the hosel or use one of these Installation tool. Don’t push the ferrule all the way up. I usually leave about a 1/4” left to go. 
14. I then use a wooden coffee stirrer and put epoxy inside the hosel and on the shaft. If using quick center, sprinkle it in the epoxy first and mix. Quick center is used to help align shafts that are slightly loose when dry fitting. Not all heads need this.
15. Push the head on while rotating the shaft and make sure the ferrule gets pushed all the way to the Mark you made on step 8.
16. pull the shaft partway out and make sure everything is coated with epoxy.
17. Push it all the way back one rotating it. 
    When you are sure it’s all the way on, rotate the shaft label to its desired orientation (I like the label on the backside).
18. Clean excess epoxy off using a paper towel or old rag.
19. put the head on the ground and stand the shaft up vertical for curing.

 

[Vinsk]

5 hours ago, boogielicious said:

My process:

1. Remove heads from shafts and clean out the head using a wire bristle brush on my drill head.  Golfworks has these.
2. make sure all the old epoxy is out. I used acetone and a q-tip and a straight metal pick. Really make sure it is clean. The brush helps a lot.
3. Sand the new shaft tip using plumbers sand paper. This tape can by ripped off in strips. I make mine about 1/2” thick and 8” long. I put the shaft in a vise when I do this.
4. My basement is cold, so I warm up the epoxy in water that is 90 degrees from the tap. It takes about 30 minutes.
5. If reusing a shaft, I remove the epoxy and shaft weight in the tip and clean out the inside. The brush works for this too.
6. If the grip is still on, I poke a hole in the tape under the grip so air will flow out during assembly. If you don’t do this, the head will pop off because you will be compressing the air inside that needs to escape.
7. I dry fit the shafts to make sure it is going all the way in. Measure the depth and make sure the tip is going all the way. Do this with the swing weight in if using one.
8. during the dry fit, take the ferrule and lie is over the end of the hosel to see where it should end up. I mark this with a marker. Don’t put the ferrule on until ready to epoxy.
9. When I’m ready, I get all the parts on the bench.
10. I mix the epoxy for 1 minute.
11. if adding a swing weight, I put epoxy on it and insert into the shaft. Put a dab of epoxy on for the ferrule.
12. I put the ferrule on and spin it to move the expose around.
13. You can then push the ferrule on using the hosel or use one of these Installation tool. Don’t push the ferrule all the way up. I usually leave about a 1/4” left to go. 
14. I then use a wooden coffee stirrer and put epoxy inside the hosel and on the shaft. If using quick center, sprinkle it in the epoxy first and mix. Quick center is used to help align shafts that are slightly loose when dry fitting. Not all heads need this.
15. Push the head on while rotating the shaft and make sure the ferrule gets pushed all the way to the Mark you made on step 8.
16. pull the shaft partway out and make sure everything is coated with epoxy.
17. Push it all the way back one rotating it. 
    When you are sure it’s all the way on, rotate the shaft label to its desired orientation (I like the label on the backside).
18. Clean excess epoxy off using a paper towel or old rag.
19. put the head on the ground and stand the shaft up vertical for curing.

 

Sooooo I can send a project to you?😗