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Posted
I need some advice. I bought forged clubs a few months back and inside of a dome at 70 degrees was hitting them pretty well, or at least i thought. I step outside last week for the first time and hitting off a mat in 55* weather, I couldnt get my 7 iron past 160 yards. I was getting my wedge about 120 on a full swing, the 9 iron about 135-140, but then I started playing with the longer clubs, and i couldnt hit them right for the life of me. The couple that I did hit dead on only went a few yards past the 155 yard flagstick.

I pulled out r7 draw irons and was pushing 185 with my 7 iron. Im starting to get disheartened with the forged clubs and am starting to get thoughts in my head of moving back to cast-iron clubs. Im thinking of going throughout the summer and seeing how things turn out, but I wanted to hear from anyone out there. I promised myself I would lay with them throughout the summer, but i'm really on the fence right now. Any suggestions out there? Good idea? Bad idea?

Im not one to give up, but this golf game is already as frustrating as can be...

Nike VR S Covert Tour Driver 2.0, 8.5* S
Nike VR S Covert Tour 3-Wood (15*) S
Nike VR Forged Split Cavity (2-5)

Nike VR Forged TW Blades (6-PW)

Titleist Vokey SM4 54* Wedge

Nike VR X3X Wedge 58*

Nike Method Core 1 Putter

Titleist ProV1

"Hakuna Matata - It means no worries..."


Posted
I was just wondering what were you hoping to get from the forged that you cant from your cast irons?
"When I play with him, he talks to me on every green. He turns to me and says, 'You're away.' "
-Jimmy Demaret referring to Ben Hogan

In The Bag:
Driver: Cleveland HiBore XL (10.5 -conforming)3 Wood: MacGregor V-FOIL5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001Irons: Ben Hogan BH-5 (4-PW)Wedges:52 - Nike SV Tour56 - Cleve...

Posted
2 things...the first is that I wanted to learn how to correct my golf swing and everyone i've spoken to says that forged clubs will pretty much force you to correct you're swing flaws, which i will say on the wedge and 9 iron have proven true. Second, I wanted more control.

The r7's that I have are graphite shaft and i have a really quick swing speed and my club head kept lagging and pushing to the right, so i knew i had to switch shafts, so instead of re-shafting all my clubs, i decided to get clubs and i opted for forged.

I guess when it comes down to it, I really want to learn this game right. It's been three years and I dont like to be aided too much (thats why i dont go for hybrids). I can shoot mid-80's to low 90's with the cast irons, but I wanted to get a more pure feel. In researching, I just felt like this may be the way to go...

Nike VR S Covert Tour Driver 2.0, 8.5* S
Nike VR S Covert Tour 3-Wood (15*) S
Nike VR Forged Split Cavity (2-5)

Nike VR Forged TW Blades (6-PW)

Titleist Vokey SM4 54* Wedge

Nike VR X3X Wedge 58*

Nike Method Core 1 Putter

Titleist ProV1

"Hakuna Matata - It means no worries..."


Posted
Ok well that makes sense. I always thought that forged irons were really good for working the ball. Since I have been unable to really work the ball yet with my cast irons I have decided to stick with them. Are you able to work the ball or are you hoping to learn that with the forged irons.
"When I play with him, he talks to me on every green. He turns to me and says, 'You're away.' "
-Jimmy Demaret referring to Ben Hogan

In The Bag:
Driver: Cleveland HiBore XL (10.5 -conforming)3 Wood: MacGregor V-FOIL5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001Irons: Ben Hogan BH-5 (4-PW)Wedges:52 - Nike SV Tour56 - Cleve...

Posted
Im starting too. My problem before was that I was using the r7 draw and I couldnt really draw the ball to be honest. Outside of the swing speed, I couldnt come to grips of my actual ball flight looked like. With these, i'm starting to learn the draw and the fade a bit more. On the shorter clubs (8-W), im finding it pretty easy to work the ball, especially from left to right. I've learned to come down a bit more on the ball to produce greater spin, backwards and sideways spin (it's so cool when you learn the side spin). 3-7 irons im having problems with. I lose distance and control because I cant come to grips with how im supposed to swing them yet. Frustrating as all hell...

Nike VR S Covert Tour Driver 2.0, 8.5* S
Nike VR S Covert Tour 3-Wood (15*) S
Nike VR Forged Split Cavity (2-5)

Nike VR Forged TW Blades (6-PW)

Titleist Vokey SM4 54* Wedge

Nike VR X3X Wedge 58*

Nike Method Core 1 Putter

Titleist ProV1

"Hakuna Matata - It means no worries..."


Posted
Hey dont give up! Use the forged clubs but make one slight adjustment and you should hit your ball a lot more solid. Choke down more on your clubs. If you want to draw the ball more -rotate your left wrist more toward the target and move your stance to the right of the target. This is how i came to draw the ball. At a place like oakmont this is necessary-rmember rotate the left wrist more to the target and move your stance to the target. This is what i call a cut-draw---i use this shot a lot when i need to draw it---best of luck man--dont give up on those forged irons--just choke down more

"People think the size of the head is most important. Wrong. It's getting a quality shaft. test different shafts to see which goes the straightest. Also, more degrees of loft on the head is better than less. Eleven degrees is about right."


Posted
It's not really about forged and not forged. Your new irons are player's irons and musclebacks (I'm assuming they are the Taylormades in you WITB) so they are definitely going to be harder to hit perfectly. I played Mizuno MX-23s before my MP-32s and both were forged. Obviously, the MP-32s demand more perfect swings than the MX-23s, but because they are musclebacks. Keep trying to perfect your swing. When I first started using my blades, I couldn't get the 3 iron past 150. With some practice and more lessons, I can hit it at least 190 now, high and straight. (My swing speed isn't that fast) If all else fails, you can get forged clubs that aren't musclebacks like the Callaway X-forged for example for added forgiveness.

Posted

I can understand your frustration. I played a few rounds on a borrowed set of old forged irons and I con't get the distances correct. I was continuely short...you would l think I would learn few a few stokes
It seems similar to your posting...
I can hit my 7 iron 170 yds. But the forged irons would only go about 150. Eventually I learned "it is what it is".

This means you need to re-configure your distances with your new clubs and forget about the old distances. think of it as more time to play golf.

Good Luck and remember to enjoy.

Cheers,
Eric

Cheers,
Eric

what's in my Sun Mtn bag:
Driver: 3-Wood: Big Bertha Irons: Mizuno MP-54 Wedge: Mizuno 56°-10° Putter: Newport 2 Ball: Pro Vx


Posted
I need some advice. I bought forged clubs a few months back and inside of a dome at 70 degrees was hitting them pretty well, or at least i thought. I step outside last week for the first time and hitting off a mat in 55* weather, I couldnt get my 7 iron past 160 yards. I was getting my wedge about 120 on a full swing, the 9 iron about 135-140, but then I started playing with the longer clubs, and i couldnt hit them right for the life of me. The couple that I did hit dead on only went a few yards past the 155 yard flagstick.

Your R7 draw 7 iron has 32 degrees of loft, a RAC- TP MB has 36 degrees of loft. That's a 1 club difference. In other words, your R7 Draw 7 iron is a 6 iron!

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Posted
Your R7 draw 7 iron has 32 degrees of loft, a RAC- TP MB has 36 degrees of loft. That's a 1 club difference. In other words, your R7 Draw 7 iron is a 6 iron!

Nail on the head.

Also the clubs you are using now (RAC tp) are a lot less forgiving that your R7 draws. You have to 'learn' how to hit blades/semi blades. For the first month or so most players who make the switch from game improvement to players irons struggle to learn how different the two clubs perform from each other.

In my Ping UCLAN Team Bag

Nike Sasqautch 9.5 - V2 Stiff
Cleveland HiBore 15 - V2 Stiff
Ben Hogan Apex FTX, 2 - PW - Dynamic Gold StiffNike SV Tour 52, 58 - Dynamic Golf StiffYes Golf Callie - 33 inchesBall - Srixon Z star X


Posted
Nail on the head.

i agree: maybe you should get back to a more forgiving 'players' iron.

Driver: Callaway Diablo Edge Tour 10.5* (UST Proforce v2 77g X Flex) 3 Wood: Callaway Diablo 15* (UST Proforce v2 86g S Flex). 2 Hybrid: Adams A4 Tech 17* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex). 3 and 4 Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 20* and 23* (UST Proforce v2 105g S Flex)
Irons: Tour Edge Exotics...

Posted
Forged irons arent always for the low handicap.

"People think the size of the head is most important. Wrong. It's getting a quality shaft. test different shafts to see which goes the straightest. Also, more degrees of loft on the head is better than less. Eleven degrees is about right."


Posted
Forged irons arent always for the low handicap.

Nope, forged irons are for whomever likes them and wants to play them. Just be aware that many forged irons have more traditional lofts. I play irons with a 48 degree PW. Many game improvement pitching wedges have 44 or 45 degrees of loft. So does my 9 iron. There is no hard and fast rule WHO should play what. I have a friend who is a plus 2 handicap and he plays X20 Tours. Another is a 0 and he plays G10s. Another is a 16 and he plays Mizuno MP 67s. Another, a 2 and he plays Hogan Apex blades. All of them like their irons.

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Posted

Did you check the lofts? I'd be really suprised if the MB's are as strong as the R7 draw (or any game improvement iron for that matter).

IMO you can either learn your new distances, or go to a shovel. You're choice, but I'm from Minneapolis, it's the middle of March, and I'm tired of shovels

EDIT Sorry, didn't notice that lofts were touched on already.

In My Bag:

Taylormade: Superquad 9.5 Aldila VS Proto 'By You' 70-S
Sonartec: SS-07 14.0 Aldila NV 85-S
Cleveland: Halo, 3i UST Irod 83-SPing: i-10 4-UW AWT-STitleist: Vokey Design Spin Milled 54.10 & 60.08Slighter: Handstamped Tacoma, 350G in Black Satin w/Sound Slot

Posted
2 things...the first is that I wanted to learn how to correct my golf swing and everyone i've spoken to says that forged clubs will pretty much force you to correct you're swing flaws, which i will say on the wedge and 9 iron have proven true. Second, I wanted more control.

By the way, I think most single digit handicappers can draw or fade the ball with any club. I know I can hit a huge hook or a fade on demand with game improvement clubs. I can't hit a huge slice with either of them.

I believe forged clubs give better trajectory and distance control. I also believe it's hard to quantify how much better, but I believe better. I think offset has more to do with the ability to work the ball than forged vs. cast. Why do I play forged? I like the way my irons look at address. I am a little more certain how far each shot will go, and I can hit them lower if I want. I also know that I've had some cast clubs: Cleveland CG4, TM RACs and still have Ping Eye 2s. My score is about the same with any of those or my forged irons. Do I believe forged irons can make you a better ballstriker? Yes, if you want to hit enough balls to become proficient at repeating your swing. Of course, if you hit enough balls with the right focus, your swing will repeat no matter what clubs you use. My take on forged vs. cast: When you go to buy a new car, do you like red, white, green, blue or black? Maybe silver? Buy what YOU like- who really cares what anyone else thinks?

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Posted
Well, after talking with a Golf Pro I trust, i'm doing something to take a bit out of the distance sting, but i'm de-lofting the clubs to make them stronger. You'll notice the sets I have listed below, my old clubs and new ones and the degree variance. I'm changing the lofts to match those of the R7's. Maybe it's a mental thing, but I'm purchasing a new 52* and 60* wedge in the next couple of weeks. When I get these back, i'll see how they end up...

IRON - 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 W
R7 - 19 22 25 28 32 36 40 44
RAC - 21 24 28 32 36 40 44 48

Nike VR S Covert Tour Driver 2.0, 8.5* S
Nike VR S Covert Tour 3-Wood (15*) S
Nike VR Forged Split Cavity (2-5)

Nike VR Forged TW Blades (6-PW)

Titleist Vokey SM4 54* Wedge

Nike VR X3X Wedge 58*

Nike Method Core 1 Putter

Titleist ProV1

"Hakuna Matata - It means no worries..."


Posted
Remember that you can always get those blades bent. Theyre softer steel than cast and the grain molecules are closely-so this will make bending easy for an expert to bend. Maybe the best thing to do is get the clubs regripped. A lot of times if im swinging bad-i blame the club. WRONG--its more about the feel of your hands than the clubhead

"People think the size of the head is most important. Wrong. It's getting a quality shaft. test different shafts to see which goes the straightest. Also, more degrees of loft on the head is better than less. Eleven degrees is about right."


Posted
Just don't forget that changing the lofts changes the bounce of the club...just something else to ponder as 4 degrees seems like a lot. Normally clubfiters will change loft up to 2 degrees without it really affecting the playability.

Just my 2 cents..

Note: This thread is 6471 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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