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Need Some Iron Advice


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I play cavity blades. titlest 695cb's. I think when you're learning golf you shouldnt have that much help from your equipment. Once you're comfortable with the swing and have an understanding of what a proper strike is, then maybe you can go to a more forgiving iron to get the extra benefits.

I guess it depends on who the beginner is... I can't picture my wife trying to hit blades... ever. But, I can see a junior golfer who has great potential and plays to say 10-18 going with your strategy to become a good ball striker. I guess the point is, you better be improving quickly and really working at the game for this approach to make sense. It wouldn't make much sense for the guy who is a 15, was a 16 last year, 17 before that, 18, etc. and thinks they'll shave one more off the cap by next year. They would be improving so slow, that playing with a blade would just rob them of enjoyment.

And I still hold to the opinion that you can improve ballstriking with any club, you just might have to pay more attention to how you are hitting the ball. I know with my clubs I can still tell when I catch one a little towards the toe or a few groove thin or fat. But I can see where you are comming from and think it might work, but only in certain situations... mostly when someone with high potential is improving quickly and working on their game rather often.
My Clubs: Callaway FT-i Tour LCG 9.5° w/ Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 stiff; Sonartec GS Tour 14° w/ Graphite Design Red Ice 70 stiff; Adams Idea Pro 2h(18°) & 3h(20°) w/ Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff; Adams Idea Pro Forged 4-PW w/ TT Black Gold stiff; Cleveland CG12 DSG RTG 52°-10° & 58°-10°; Odyssey...
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i go Driver wich is 10.5 to a 16* hybrid. What ya think?

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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I guess it depends on who the beginner is... I can't picture my wife trying to hit blades... ever. But, I can see a junior golfer who has great potential and plays to say 10-18 going with your strategy to become a good ball striker. I guess the point is, you better be improving quickly and really working at the game for this approach to make sense. It wouldn't make much sense for the guy who is a 15, was a 16 last year, 17 before that, 18, etc. and thinks they'll shave one more off the cap by next year. They would be improving so slow, that playing with a blade would just rob them of enjoyment.

Yeah, thats generally what I meant. the junior golfers that play competitively. Perhaps Im looking at it through my own prism..those were the results Ive had with going to a bladed iron immediately.I didn't know any better, anyway. Ive only been playing 2 years and I break 80 7 out of 10 times I play. Im no phenom - I put in the work - but I think learning with those clubs have had alot to do with that.

THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball
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i go Driver wich is 10.5 to a 16* hybrid. What ya think?

you mean using a 16 degree hybrid as your driver?
THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball
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you mean using a 16 degree hybrid as your driver?

no. my driver is 10.5 then i go to my 16* hybrid

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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no. my driver is 10.5 then i go to my 16* hybrid

I dunno...i suppose. Whats wrong with a 15 degree 3 wood and then go to a 5 wood or a 18 degree hybrid? Or you if prefer to use the 16 in place of the 3 wood, but that would seem a little odd to me.

THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball
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thats what im doing right now. It seems to be working preety good. I hit the 16* about 215

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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well, would you hit a 3-wood further than the 16* hybrid? How much? what are the distance gaps?

since you are fairly new, just a note... the key to a good set is to have good evenly spaced distance gaps. You don't want a driver going 260, a wood going 230, a hybrid going 225, and the longest iron going 200. Instead a better spacing might be a driver at 260, wood at 240, hybrid at 220, and iron at 205.
My Clubs: Callaway FT-i Tour LCG 9.5° w/ Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 stiff; Sonartec GS Tour 14° w/ Graphite Design Red Ice 70 stiff; Adams Idea Pro 2h(18°) & 3h(20°) w/ Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff; Adams Idea Pro Forged 4-PW w/ TT Black Gold stiff; Cleveland CG12 DSG RTG 52°-10° & 58°-10°; Odyssey...
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thats a good point maybe i will think about getting a 3 wood instead of mt cobra baffler

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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anyone looking to trade a preety much brand new Cobra Baffler 2007 16* hybrid for a good 3 wood? haha.

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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unless i have a ridiculously long par 5 do i really need a 3 wood?

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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I use my 3-wood for tight driving holes, and Par 5's (sometimes). I may also use it on a crazy long par 3. I hit my 18* hybrid about 215-220 and 3-wood 230-240. It's just matter of where I am on the course, but I do use it. I couldn't have gotten an eagle on a hole last year without it. Like I said before it's all about yardage gaps. I probably wouldn't hit a 16* hybrid much further than my 18*, and I can actually hit a 3-wood better than a 1 (16*) hybrid, but I hit a 2 hybrid (18*) better than a 5-wood... so I choose the hybrid over the 5-wood, but the 3-wood over a hybrid. Most golfers carry at least one wood (besides the driver), but do whatever works best for you.
My Clubs: Callaway FT-i Tour LCG 9.5° w/ Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 stiff; Sonartec GS Tour 14° w/ Graphite Design Red Ice 70 stiff; Adams Idea Pro 2h(18°) & 3h(20°) w/ Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff; Adams Idea Pro Forged 4-PW w/ TT Black Gold stiff; Cleveland CG12 DSG RTG 52°-10° & 58°-10°; Odyssey...
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very true. im gonna wait till i actually get outside and hit to see. Im sick of this simulator stuff, even thought me and my dad are winning our league ha

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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i really have no need for another hybrid, but thanks. Does anyone know the exact degrees for the CG Gold gap wedge? it would a lot

All Cleveland gap wedges are 50*

Here's what I play:

Titleist 907 D2 10.5* UST ProForce V2 76-S | Titleist 906F4 18.5* Aldila VS Proto "By You" 80-S | Titleist 585H 21* Aldila VS Proto "By You" 80-S | Titleist ZB 4-PW TTDG S300 | Bob Vokey Spin Milled Oil Can 54.10 | Bob Vokey Spin Milled Oil Can 60.08 | Scotty Cameron Red X5 33" |

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yeah i realized that now ha

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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My 2cents: I remember switching to blades as a 14 or 15 yr old because that's what the pros used. It was before I struck the ball consistantly enough to be ready for blades.

It's hard to express how frustrating that was... to go from hitting the ball well to feeling like you're hitting a brick every time. I quickly switched back to my parallax irons.

I love my forged blades now later in life... when you strike a shot well, it feels so good. (I think of the famous Arnold quote in Pumping Iron)... but if you skull one, it feels like hitting a brick wall.

Personally, I'd wait until you strike the ball very consistantly before considering blades... maybe try some blades before you buy a set?
In Le Bag:

Driver: Burner 420 (circa 2002)
3-Wood: Original Bubble Burner (circa 1998)
5-Wood: noneHybrids: noneIrons: Silverscot Forged TourWedges: SV Tour BlackPutter: Black Series i #1Bag: Edge
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My 2cents: I remember switching to blades as a 14 or 15 yr old because that's what the pros used. It was before I struck the ball consistantly enough to be ready for blades.

yeah thats what i was thinking about doing. Just get a demo set of blades

and go try them out.

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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i would feel dumb startign a new thread so ill just ask a new question here. some people have already stated there opinon but here it goes, right now i have no 3 wood just a 16 hybrid and a 19* hybrid. Im guess the difference wont be huge. So should i go 3 wood then 19 degree hybrid?

In My Bag:
Driver-G10 10.5 pro launch blue
3 wood-Burner TP 14.5
2i-hibore hybrid 19 stiff
irons-J33bWedges-:54 vokeyFEEL wedge company 60putter- white hot xg #1ball-pro v1

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Note: This thread is 5891 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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