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(edited)

Probably a fairly minor issue, but I want to make sure I  do this right since this is the first time I've reshafted an entire set instead of just fixing a few, and certainly the first time I've gone to this much detail.

 

When I weighed all the shafts , the majority were right in line (113.4 gm +/-)  regardless of lengths, which vary from 39-37" before I butt trim.  However, I have a couple that weighed in at 116.2gm). My thoughts are bouncing between "it doesn't matter" to  putting the heavier ones on the shortest irons, in this case the 9 & PW.

Am I on the right track or overthinking this?

Edited by boogielicious
Run on sentence title

  • boogielicious changed the title to Shafts Weight Variance Question
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2 hours ago, bking said:

Probably a fairly minor issue, but I want to make sure I  do this right since this is the first time I've reshafted an entire set instead of just fixing a few, and certainly the first time I've gone to this much detail.

 

When I weighed all the shafts , the majority were right in line (113.4 gm +/-)  regardless of lengths, which vary from 39-37" before I butt trim.  However, I have a couple that weighed in at 116.2gm). My thoughts are bouncing between "it doesn't matter" to  putting the heavier ones on the shortest irons, in this case the 9 & PW.

Am I on the right track or overthinking this?

You may be over thinking it. What shafts are they? Most shafts now are set up to be specific to a particular iron length. Example: My PX 6.0 are specific to each iron length and state that on the shaft code with length, 35, 35.5, 36, 36.5, etc.  I should use that shaft for that specific iron unless I am soft or hard stepping it.

The shaft weight may vary too because of this. The shaft manufacturer is assuming you will be using a standard length or a standard +/- that length but consistent throughout the set. If you look at the tip ends, they should look graduated unless they are smooth shafts.

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Scott

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20 minutes ago, boogielicious said:

You may be over thinking it. What shafts are they? Most shafts now are set up to be specific to a particular iron length. Example: My PX 6.0 are specific to each iron length and state that on the shaft code with length, 35, 35.5, 36, 36.5, etc.  I should use that shaft for that specific iron unless I am soft or hard stepping it.

The shaft weight may vary too because of this. The shaft manufacturer is assuming you will be using a standard length or a standard +/- that length but consistent throughout the set. If you look at the tip ends, they should look graduated unless they are smooth shafts.

They are DG Lites that I found a source for. They came precut in lengths from 39" to 37", and most of them match up really well except for 2 of the 37"s.  From what I can find, these aren't set up for specific clubs, but I may be way off. Finding that sort of data on the DG Lites is proving to b a challenge.

I'll be butt trimming them to lengthen my old MS-209s by 3/4" while reducing the weight. So my 4 iron will go from 38" to 38 3/4", moving down to my 9 iron going from 35.50" to 36.25". Not planning right now to lengthen the wedges as I'm leaning more toward control than distance on those.

Now, this is all contingent on the experiment I am planning  to do, lengthening a spare 5 iron (same model and specs) and doing some comparisons with the 5 iron in my set.   I need to see if I can unlearn playing with the stock lengths before I dive in the deep end. I've known for a long time that I should have used longer shafts, but after starting back from a decade-long layoff and getting older I think it's time.

I'm open to any and all suggestions, comments, etc as a slow-walk the start of this. If it proves to be a bad idea I'm not out much invested in the shafts.


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Let us know how it comes out.

Scott

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2 hours ago, boogielicious said:

Let us know how it comes out.

Will do. AT the risk of becoming annoying, I'll try to update this as I do each step in the plan.


Doublecheck: are the irons and the shafts taper tip (0.355")?

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11 hours ago, bking said:

Will do. AT the risk of becoming annoying, I'll try to update this as I do each step in the plan.

It won’t be annoying. That is what threads like this are for. We can all learn from your experiments.

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(edited)
16 hours ago, WUTiger said:

Doublecheck: are the irons and the shafts taper tip (0.355")?

Yep. But good question as I could see someone missing that. Right now, the only fit issue I see BEFORE I get started in the new ferrules seem REAL tight When I tried dry fitting one just to see.

Edited by bking

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1 hour ago, bking said:

Yep. But good question as I could see someone missing that. Right now, the only fit issue I see BEFORE I get started in the new ferrules seem REAL tight When I tried dry fitting one just to see.

Put the ferrules in hot water and they will expand a bit. I also rub the inside of the ferrule with sandpaper or a small wire brush to roughen the surface. I put a dab of epoxy on the shaft before installing the ferrule.

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