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  • Moderator
Posted
I watched the guy regrip my woods and noticed he didn't remove the old tape. He said that's their stock practice, but I noticed my grip being just a tad fatter. Next time I regrip, I'm going to ask for the old tape to be removed or remove it myself.

When I regrip myself, I do a so so job - there are places I can feel the tape bunch up. I noticed other places who do this do this as well. This shop used the wide tape and thusly, no bunching up.

If you regrip yourself, what tips do you have for making the process easier, faster, better?

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

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Posted
I like to replace my own grips, and I don't like built up tape either.

I picked up a grip tape removal tool from Golfsmith, it does make the task much easier.

I've got a rectangular shaped Rubbermaid container that's just a little longer than the grip of an average club. I stick the club in the rubber jaws, then clamp it down in my vice on the workbench.

After removing the old grip (I use a hook blade on a utility knife, so's not to damage the shaft) I put the bin under my grip tape. I soak it liberally with solvent, and let it sit for a minute (the bin goes under the grip tape, to catch the solvent, angle the shaft slightly downhill toward the butt end, so you don't have solvent running all over the darned workbench, that was a silly lesson to learn). I then start to scrape off the old tape, and add more solvent as I go to dissolve the old tape adhesive, and residue. I usually have to unclamp and turn the club a time or two during this process. You can re-use the solvent, I just filter it with a paint filter that I stick in the funnel, and pour it back into the solvent can.

A couple minutes of effort, and I'm ready for fresh tape and grip.

Tape removal tool:
http://www.golfsmith.com/products/8228

Vice Clamp:
http://www.golfsmith.com/products/8288

In my Sasquatch Tour Bag:

Driver - G10 10.5°: UST Pro Vorce V2 Shaft, Regular flex
Hybrid - G10 21° & 24°: TFC 129H, Stiff flex
Irons - S57 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, PW - Nippon 950GH stiff shaftsWedges - Tour 52°, 60° 56°Putter - 34" TracyBall - Treosoft


  • Moderator
Posted
I never thought of that - using the solvent to make it easier to remove the tape. I assume it's alot faster to remove the old tape that way. Thanks for the tip.

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I'll usually use water to get the old tape off. Just soak it and it peels off like a charm. Then dry it off and put the new tape on.

in the bag

Driver: 909D2 9.5° Oban Devotion Shaft

3 Wood: G10 15.5°
Hybrid: 3dx RC 20° Ironwood 

4-PW: MP-57's S300

Wedges: 51° MP-T Black Nickel 56° Vokey Spin Milled 

Putter: Tracy II 35" Iomic Grip 

Ball: Pro V1x


Note: This thread is 6306 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • All great info. Thanks for the reply. 
    • Yea, it's more complicated than your high school projectile motion equations.  I am thinking it could increase under certain conditions. A gust of wind blowing in the same direction as the spin, causing more high and low pressure on the ball in a certain way that it increases the spin?  It has zero vertical velocity at its apex. So, it is all velocity caused by gravity for the vertical component.  Yea, landing angle is a big thing.  It is parabolic. Your apex is 90 yards in the air. A 30-yard elevated green is 1/3rd that height. At the apex, your vertical descent angle is zero, it should be horizontal. So, you are going from zero theta to let's say 45 degrees. Even if it was linear, let's say you're landing angle is close to 30 degrees. That is less than a driver and probably is significant.  Yea, it depends on how you hit it. Especially for downhill shots. If you hit a flighted shot, it might react more like a normal shot because of the lower launch and lower apex relative to your position. Versus a normal shot might come in at like 70 degrees, instead of 45 degrees.       
    • Wordle 1,553 3/6 ⬜🟨🟨🟨🟨 ⬜🟨🟩🟨🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Spin will decay slightly over time, but not by a lot. The horizontal portion of the velocity will also decay due to air resistance. The vertical component will be increasing since the ball is accelerating due to gravity (albeit that the spin is creating lift, which will counteract that some). Neither of those has much of an impact of how the ball will react. The biggest difference is the vertical land angle. The angle theta prime (not sure how to show that on here) will be shallower than theta. That means the ball will stop faster at theta than at theta prime. The other thing is because there is still a horizontal component to the velocity, it will carry less far at theta prime than at theta.  The effects of those two things work in opposite directions. Which one "wins" will depend on ground conditions, ball flight, spin, any necessary carry distances, etc. Fortunately the margins are fairly small so you can wing it with enough experience. The calculation of the carry distance change is what your range finder estimates when you have slope turned on.
    • So, I was looking at this image and wondered what the best way is to play your approach to an elevated green versus a lowered green. Is the spin and velocity profile at θ' much different than at θ? I don't know the physics of it but to my wee brain, it would seem that at θ' the spin would be higher but velocity lower. At θ the spin would seem to be lower but velocity higher since it has more time to fall from its peak where it would be zero. Even the image below is off visually since we know the arc of the ball flight isn't consistent throughout.    It's okay if you tell me I'm overthinking this. 😂  
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