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This is the first time i am changing the grips on my clubs. Should i do it my self or go somewhere. I need them done quickly though.

Speed LD F Stiff Shaft 9.5*
3dx dc 2 ironwood 17*
3dx dc 4 ironwood 23*
710 AP1 5 - P
50.08 Spin Milled CC 56.11 Spin Milled CC 60.04 Spin Milled CCDual Force 2 Putter #1 Pro V1xForget your opponents; always play against par. ~Sam Snead


  dagolfer said:
This is the first time i am changing the grips on my clubs. Should i do it my self or go somewhere. I need them done quickly though.

Regripping is very easy, but you will need some supplies.

  • 2 sided grip tape
  • Grip tape solvent
  • Box cutter (hook blade highly recommended) - to remove old grips
  • Bench vice recommended.
  • Shaft protector recommended
  • masking tape - to mark position of old grips before cutting them off.
Regripping Steps:
  1. Mark position of old grip with masking tape on shaft. Use Sharpie to mark center line (or other alignment aid on grip).
  2. Cut off old grip.
  3. Remove all old tape from shaft.
  4. Put new tape on shaft. Make sure the tape extends 1/2" to 1" beyond the end of the shaft. Twist that excess tape and push it into the shaft. (To keep water or other debris from getting into the shaft.)
  5. Put finger over the small hole in the top of the grip, and pour some solvent in the open end and swish it around so that the entire inside of the grip gets wet.
  6. Pour out the solvent in the grip over the grip tape. Use additional solvent to completely saturate the tape. Solvent is your friend.
  7. Slide the new grip on and align it with the tape/Sharpie mark.
Set aside and let the grip set. Some links:
http://www.golfsmith.com/display_pag...eos_clubmaking http://www.golfsmith.com/display_pag...stration5&ln;=N http://www.golfgalaxy.com/galaxy/dept.asp?dept_id=870 http://www.lamkingrips.com/regrip_how.php

they have water activated tape so you dont need the solvent, but does this work? Im poor and would like to cut costs where ever possible.

In my freestyle:
Driver: 10.5* G5 with UST V2
F.W. wood: 16* retro raylor with Aldila HM-40 Tour Gold
Irons: i5 3-pw. Stiff cs lite shafts
Wedges: 8620 51*, 56*, and 60* Putter: classics 1 34""Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid." -John Wayne


  M2daRizzle said:
they have water activated tape so you dont need the solvent, but does this work? Im poor and would like to cut costs where ever possible.

I've never tried water-activated tape because I had always heard that it was harder to work with and not as effective. I have no idea whether it's true or not - I just figured 'why risk it?'

However, you don't have to use something labeled "grip solvent". Mineral spirits or other hardware store available solvents will work. Also, the solvent is reusable. Just put a pan/tray below where you are working and let the excess solvent drain into it. Then pour it back into the container. (Note: there is likely to be some debris/detris in the used solvent (usually tiny bits of grip rubber). That isn't a problem as long as you are just using it for a grip solvent, and not for some other application that requires clean solvent.)

I've never tried water-activated tape because I had always heard that it was harder to work with and not as effective. I have no idea whether it's true or not - I just figured 'why risk it?'

I didnt realize it was reusable and such. Might as well go with what works then. thank you for clearing that up, I have been wondering this for a while.

In my freestyle:
Driver: 10.5* G5 with UST V2
F.W. wood: 16* retro raylor with Aldila HM-40 Tour Gold
Irons: i5 3-pw. Stiff cs lite shafts
Wedges: 8620 51*, 56*, and 60* Putter: classics 1 34""Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid." -John Wayne


Careful with flamable liquids and don't cut yourself with the knife otherwise its easy to do.... are you saving money and time doing it yourself?

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


  ks8829 said:
Careful with flamable liquids and don't cut yourself with the knife otherwise its easy to do.... are you saving money and time doing it yourself?

I want to do it because I like doing things for myself. I just always have, its just my personality.

Does anybody know the size of standard grips and how big midsize grips are in comparison. I have big hands and they feel crowded on the standard grips. (Sorry to the OP if he feels Im thread-jacking, Im just very interested in the topic as well)

In my freestyle:
Driver: 10.5* G5 with UST V2
F.W. wood: 16* retro raylor with Aldila HM-40 Tour Gold
Irons: i5 3-pw. Stiff cs lite shafts
Wedges: 8620 51*, 56*, and 60* Putter: classics 1 34""Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid." -John Wayne


The GolfUSA by me only costs $1/club + grip price. I'm sure your local golf store shouldn't be too much more. If it's $1/club - just have them do it.
What I Play:

Driver: Sasquatch SUMO² 9.5º Stiff
Hybrid: HiBore 16º (3W replacement)
Irons: Staff Ci6 3-PW StiffWedges: Vokey Spin Milled 54.10 60.04Putter: Newport Studio Style 35"Ball: Pro V1xAge: 15

  M2daRizzle said:
I want to do it because I like doing things for myself. I just always have, its just my personality.

Plus, when you do it yourself, you know it's: (a) done right; (b) done when you need it done; and (c) usually cheaper.

Grips are sized relative to standard. For example: -1/16" -1/32" Standard +1/32" +1/16" etc. If you feel "crowded", I would suggest going to the store and picking out one oversized grip that feels right; regripping one club and testing it for a few weeks. If you still like it, regrip all your clubs. If not, pick out another grip and try again. Be advised, however, that bigger (fatter) grips can tend to slightly inhibit release, while smaller (thinner) grips can encourage release.

my club charges crap loads. i would love to be able to do it myself, i never really do trust other people with my stuff and it always seems to get broken somehow.

Driver: Taylormade R11 set to 8*
3 Wood: R9 15* Motore Stiff
Hybrid: 19° 909 H Voodoo
Irons: 4-PW AP2 Project X 5.5
52*, 60* Vokey SM Chrome

Putter: Odyssey XG #7

Ball: Titleist Pro V1x


My hands don't feel crowded on the current grips but the grips sizers i have looked at have been telling me that .620 will be a little bit better.

Speed LD F Stiff Shaft 9.5*
3dx dc 2 ironwood 17*
3dx dc 4 ironwood 23*
710 AP1 5 - P
50.08 Spin Milled CC 56.11 Spin Milled CC 60.04 Spin Milled CCDual Force 2 Putter #1 Pro V1xForget your opponents; always play against par. ~Sam Snead


I personally don't think i need them though.

Speed LD F Stiff Shaft 9.5*
3dx dc 2 ironwood 17*
3dx dc 4 ironwood 23*
710 AP1 5 - P
50.08 Spin Milled CC 56.11 Spin Milled CC 60.04 Spin Milled CCDual Force 2 Putter #1 Pro V1xForget your opponents; always play against par. ~Sam Snead


I only have one club that the grip is really bad (ripping) all others still feel fine to me, they don't slip or anything. I think i am going to drop that club off after my next round and get it gripped and just make it through high school golf season with the grips i have.

Speed LD F Stiff Shaft 9.5*
3dx dc 2 ironwood 17*
3dx dc 4 ironwood 23*
710 AP1 5 - P
50.08 Spin Milled CC 56.11 Spin Milled CC 60.04 Spin Milled CCDual Force 2 Putter #1 Pro V1xForget your opponents; always play against par. ~Sam Snead


Once you regrip that one, you will probably realize how bad your others are.

I switched from standard to midsize tour velvets not long ago. I am a pretty big dude with good size hands. I never thought I had a problem, but had several people tell me that I should try a bigger grip. Honestly, I cant really tell the difference. I still hit it the same. I had only played about a year before I switched...maybe if I was a long time golfer I would notice the change.

I am one of the people who likes to do things myself, so I did my own grips. It was not difficult. I bought a cheap paint roller pan to catch the solvent, a medium size bottle of paint thinner, one of those little ketchup bottles so I could use it to squirt the solvent (do not store solvent in a bottle like this...it will most likely melt it over time), a roll of grip tape, and the grips themselves. Other than a few clean rags or paper towels...that is all you will need.

It took me a few hours to finish the job, but did not run into any problems. I learned to push the grip onto the shaft by the butt, rather than pulling it on. If you pull it over, it will stretch and want to stay that way. I had some problems getting the tape glue on the grip as I was wiping it off. It took a few rounds of play and cleaning for it to eventually rub off.

Good luck.

  • 4 weeks later...

I used to do it myself....but not anymore. It's too easy to pay the $1 per grip fee to have the shop do it right.

909D Comp 9.5* (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-6)
Burner Superfast 3 & 5 woods (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-4.8)
G15 Hybrid 23* (AWT shaft)
G5 5 iron-PW-46*, UW-50*, SW-54 & LW-58 (AWT shaft)
Studio Select Newport 2 Mid SlantGrips: PING cords & Golf Pride New Decade Multi-Coumpound Bag: C-130...

  Dub said:
I used to do it myself....but not anymore. It's too easy to pay the $1 per grip fee to have the shop do it right.

If you take your time and have the right supplies, it's almost impossible to do it wrong.


I think its just personal opinion whether its worth doing yourself or not.
If you enjoy that kind of thing go for it.

If you are doing it for ecnomy, I'm not convinced it saves any money if it takes 10 mins per grip thats about 2 hours work for a whole set. In 2 hours of work I'd make more than the $50 it would cost to pay someone else to do it. You should be able to drop the clubs off going to work and pick them up after and the job should be done, so its not eating into spare time that could be used to golf either.

Note: This thread is 6024 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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