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Posted
So, I started playing golf in May after my dad gave me an older set of clubs he got from the course pro at a club in town. I didn't know anything about golf clubs, but I've been getting some feedback from people who play with me and I think it's horsesh*t to be frank.

Before I ask though, make sure you understand I learned how to hit the ball on a bermuda grass soccer field, with a Titleist DCI-B PW. I practiced every day after work and managed to get my short game shots really accurate.

Well, my playing partners often comment that I need to buy a new set of irons because mine are:

1. Old - I'd say somewhere between 95-99.
2. Blades. The DCI-B's were only available from Titleist custom shop (or that's what I read)


So, to be clear, my clubs have a very blade-like profile, however they are not muscle backs. They do have a cavity in them, and for some reason I think they've honestly made me a better golf learning on a thin, small club head as opposed to a bigger more forgiving iron.

I realize the set I hit best is the set I should play but why would I go out and drop 400 bucks on a set of golf clubs that are going to be more forgiving? Don't I want the club to be less forgiving on mishits so I know become a better player? I have a feeling that learning with these clubs has actually taught me how to hit a ball well, or better than I could have with some RACs or Big Berthas.

Posted
Both the sides of the story you have stated carry weight. And you will probably hear both sides in this thread too.

I'm of the opinion that if you just want to hack around once a month (or a few times a year) then game improvement (large cavity, hybrid sets etc...) clubs are for you. To increase your enjoyment the few times a year you find the time.

However, if you are an 'aspiring golfer' who wants to get better and groove your swing to be something useful, then swing improvement (shallow cavity, blades, progressive sets etc...) clubs are for you.

Just my personal thoughts on the matter.
Whats in the bag:

Driver: Nike Ignite 460cc 10.5* Fujikura Ignite reg flex
Fairway woods: Howson tour master power series 3,5 woods
Irons: MacGregor M675 3-PW DG S300 Wedges: Mizuno MP-R Black Nickel 54.10, 60.05Putter: Pinfire Golf P4Ball: Titleist NXT TourHome Course:http://www.golfarmagh.co.uk/...

Posted
See, I wish I had done it this way. I started off on ultra forgiving clubs and was never really a fantastic ball striker. Once I got my blades, I had to learn to hit the ball or I would suck. So what you are doing makes more sense to me.

Keep the blades and get great with those. Once you can hit those solid everytime, you can hit anything.
WITB

Driver - Taylormade r7 Quad 10.5˚ Fujijura E360 Stiff
Woods - Sonartec SS 2.5 13˚ HST Penley Tour Stiff
Hybrid - Sonartec HB-001 19˚ HST Penley Tour StiffIrons - Mizuno MP-67 Forged 4-PW, DGS300Wedges - Callaway Forged 50˚ and 54˚, Walter Hagen 60˚Putter - Nike T130 O/S Mallet Ctr Shaft 33"B...

Posted
Thanks for the insight guys. I really would like to hear what others say about this scenario.

I would say stick with what you got. Not because they are better clubs, per say, but because I don't think it matters much which you use. EXCEPT, that is, for offsets and things intended to encourage a draw. Personally as someone who works on their game daily I dislike the notion of the club adding a bit of a draw to every shot I make (especially since I hit a natural draw anyway).

I think it's funny that on one hand people will tell you to use a less forgiving club to get better at ball striking (which kinda makes sense, I admit) but then the same people will point you to these high-MOI drivers with huge forgiving club faces. And likewise I find it funny that pros who play for money actually want *less forgiving* irons! Confusing? You bet. For me, at least. What it comes down to for me is that you can't find many forgiving iron sets that have minimal or no offset, so a set like yours is probably ideal. You still have the forgiving cavity back, but you have little or no offset (right?). Oh, one thing I *would* do if I were you is to go and get your lie angles adjusted for your swing. It should only cost you about $5 per club.

Posted
Very nice set of clubs. Stick with what you have, you'll be a better ball striker. Then you'll be be able to hit ANY kind of iron.

- Tour Issue Taylormade R7 Superquad TP Matrix Ozik Xcon 5 X-stiff
- Nike Dymo 3 Wood UST Axivcore Stiff
- Nike Dymo 5 Wood UST Axivcore Stiff- Nike Blades 3-PW S300- Nike SV Tour 50* 54* 58* S400- Titleist Scotty Cameron Newport Beach- Nike Tour D


Posted
ya those look pretty good and you might want to try hitting newer blades side by side with your dci's to see if there is actually a differnce.

Burner 10.5* driver
Burner 3 wood GD Pershing Shaft
Burner 5 wood GD Pershing Shaft
Tour Burner irons
Rac black 52* Rac satin 60* Red x 3 pro v1


Posted
If they are working for you I see no need to change. Peer pressure is all it is.

What's in my Bagboy Revolver cart bag:

Polarity MTR Irons 2&3 (hybrid) thru PW
R7 Burner Draw Driver 460cc
R7 Burner 3 Wood 5614 Vokey Wedge Tour Chrome Studio Select 1.5 ProV1's


Posted
I did the same thing. i started with blades but it didnt help me. After doing some research, I found that my shafts were way to stiff for me. I switched shafts and everything feels better.

I get a little more flex, and can sing slower which causes me to make better ball contact. You might look into this...

Posted
Both the sides of the story you have stated carry weight. And you will probably hear both sides in this thread too.

This is a good response. If you are willing to put in the time and be patient you will benefit from the feedback and precision these clubs require. If you need to you can always carry a hybrid or two until you are skilled enough to hit 3 irons pure.

1W Cleveland LauncherComp 10.5, 3W Touredge Exotics 15 deg.,FY Wilson 19.5 degree
4 and 5H, 6I-GW Callaway Razr, SW, LW Cleveland Cg-14, Putter Taylor Made Suzuka, Ball, Srixon XV Yellow


Posted
I agree with Geezer and Allin. You know, there was a time before ultra game improvement irons existed, and people had to still go out and learn the game.

Besides, as you mention, those are not true "blades." Stick with him if you like, they are beauties.

As far as the comments about those clubs being "old" I'm not sure what the age has to do with anything unless the clubs are in very rough shape or something like that.

What is the make up and skill level of the crew giving you a hard time? What makes them equipment specialists and what clubs are they using?

Posted
What makes them equipment specialists

Golf Digest - Duh

Nah, I think it's because they've all been playing their Berthas and X18's and stuff and I'm making better shots than they are with these clubs. One thing I don't often mention to them is a I learned the game backwards, compared to how most people do. Instead of the driving range, I spent hours every day hitting my pw, 9 iron, 8 iron, and practiced chipping at a metal bucket. I just learned to hit my driver well last month. I was hitting a 3 iron off the tee for since May of this year when I started

Posted
I agree with Geezer and Allin. You know, there was a time before ultra game improvement irons existed, and people had to still go out and learn the game.

Another thing I wanted to ask while you mention it....

So, according to my inclination, a "blade" doesn't necessarily have to have a muscle back. I thought the term "blade" referred to a thinner, small and flatter face/head profile. Technically, you can go get some Mizuno muscleback blades, or you can buy some Titleist cavity back blades. Doesn't blade just refer to the face size, topline, etc?

Posted
Another thing I wanted to ask while you mention it....

You are probably correct. I guess blade can mean a bunch of different things. I see some clubs advertised as having a "blade configuration" but are cavity backs. I guess it might just mean, thinner top line, thinner sole, smaller face, smaller sweet spot, not a lot of offset, etc.

But to me, when I think blade, I think:

Posted
You are probably correct. I guess blade can mean a bunch of different things. I see some clubs advertised as having a "blade configuration" but are cavity backs. I guess it might just mean, thinner top line, thinner sole, smaller face, smaller sweet spot, not a lot of offset, etc.

Yah, too me that is considered a muscle back blade, kind like this one.

Whereas, you can also get these. They maintain the thin top line, smaller face and sweet spot, yet have a cavity behind them.

Posted
My first and current set of irons are Dunlop PowerFlange blades. I have been using them for three years after inheriting them from my uncle after he past. I like the look and feel of them. I've bought a set of forgiving irons and couldn't hit them worth a crap. Stick with the blades.

Driver: Hyper X Tour 10.5* Graffalloy Prolaunch Blue Stiff Shaft
Hybrid: Acer Select 5000 16* Ping Cushin Stiff Shaft
Irons: NDS 3-PW (missing #7, replaced with clone) True Temper Uniflex SpeedStep Shaft
Wedges: Acer XK Tour 56*10 Precision Stiff Shaft, Revolution 60*10 True Temper Wedgeflex


Posted
Most of the answers in this thread seem to having you stay with what you currently have. If you have confidence in them, then keep going. I like the way that you moved from the hole backwards, not many people would do that. All that being said, the game improvement clubs that are on the market for the past few years do make the game easier. Is your goal to lower your score? Or to be a good striker of the golf ball? I would recommend the GI clubs as my goal has always been to lower my score. If you can put up with a couple of errant shots a round with your current irons while you continue to groove your swing you will become a better striker of the ball. I would recommend finding a demo day in your area and try 3-5 different iron sets. From the GI to players clubs. This will give you an idea of what you can expect, and will also give you some good info from the reps on shaft selection, etc. You might find that you like a mixed set - GI in the longer irons and players on the scoring clubs.
good luck -

Cobra L5V - Just waiting for the ZL to have a lower price
Cobra F Speed 2006 3 wood - very underrated 3 wood
Adams Pro Idea 3H and 4H

Taylormade Burner XD 4-AW
Cleveland 48*, 52*, and 60*

Odyssey F7 2 Ball


Note: This thread is 6319 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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