Distance difference with Driver & 3w

[jrm1493]

My old driver was a 10° with a regular shaft (BB 454) and I could hit it pretty good when I caught it right (maybe 230-240 carry, 260-270 or so with good roll, most ever GPS verified was a 310 wind+roll assisted). I was extremely wild with it however, and usually would go back and forth between an snap hook and then overcorrect on the next hole with a high straight push.

I went to golfsmith last weekend and tried out a used X460 stiff 10° and X460 tour stiff 8.5° since I like my X 3W with stiff shaft. The tour driver was an inch shorter (44?) with a fuji E360 shaft and on the monitor it just seemed a lot more consistent. My swing speed with both was just about the same (avg 94-96, hit 100 once) and distance/traj on the good strikes pretty similar, but I think the shorter shaft and open clubface on the tour worked better for me so I bought it (so cheap I couldn't pass it up - only $70 since it had some "love" compared to $100 for the new looking X460).

I have played once with it and been to the range and I really like it, much much more consistent with the new driver although I think I've lost around 10 yards, which is probably due to the stiff shaft. Strangely I am hitting it about the same height as the old regular shaft 10° 454.

My question is - when I really nail my 3 wood I am probably only about 5-10 yards short of where I can hit the driver, although I am not as consistent with the 3w (sometimes I really hit a high one that probably only goes around 200-210 with little roll). Is this kinda normal? I am an "improving" 19 handicap - only been playing seriously about 16 months) so I am not the most consistent player.

[wedge player]

My old driver was a 10° with a regular shaft (BB 454) and I could hit it pretty good when I caught it right (maybe 230-240 carry, 260-270 or so with good roll, most ever GPS verified was a 310 wind+roll assisted). I was extremely wild with it however, and usually would go back and forth between an snap hook and then overcorrect on the next hole with a high straight push.

i have about 20 yds of distance between mine i think

[Sherlockian]

I usually have between 25-30 yard gap between my driver(260) and 3w(230). The funny thing is, I only have around a 10 yard gap between my 3w and 5w(lofts have been verified to be correct).

[David in FL]

I only have about 20 yds difference in carry between the two, but the driver will usually give me more roll due to the difference in trajectory.

[jrm1493]

I only have about 20 yds difference in

That is a good point - the range I go to is sloped up (for coastal Texas) beyond about 200 yd so you get very little roll on long shots unless you carry about 250 to the top of the slope - the driver definitely has a lower trajectory so it "should" get more roll although you can't tell at that range because just about everything stops within a few yards if you hit it to the upslope.

[Dub]

There is about 35 yards difference between my 4 wood and driver.

[GaijinGolfer]

For a higher handicap player, its pretty normal to not hit the driver much farther than you do the 3-wood.
For a lot of people, the driver is a club that is difficult to hit solidly and consistently, whereas because the 3-wood has a shorter shaft, its much easier to control and much easier to hit solidly and consistently.
The more solidly you hit the ball, the better distance and accuracy you will get and thats why you are seeing that you hit your 3-wood almost as far as you do your driver.
If you ever get the chance, try a 12* driver. A lot of high handicap players find that they hit a 12* really well because the added loft reduces sidespin and gives them more carry distance, which allows them to hit the ball farther and straighter.
I went from a Titleist 975J 8.5* with a stiff shaft to the Mizuno MX-560 12* with a light shaft that I have now. I gained about 25 yards of distance and I hit much, much straighter shots.

[jrm1493]

If you ever get the chance, try a 12* driver. A lot of high handicap players find that they hit a 12* really well because the added loft reduces sidespin and gives them more carry distance, which allows them to hit the ball farther and straighter.

Probably a good idea, but I think given my swing speed (94-97 avg) i really need a stiff shaft and that combo is almost impossible to find in my budget (which is pretty much limited to used clubs). So far I am seeming to hit the new driver much more consistently (today at the range I probably hit 30 drives and 75% of them would have been "good" based on where I was aiming - not necessarily in the fairway but I would have had a clear shot at the green from reasonable distance had I been playing, versus maybe 50% on a good day with my old driver. The good ones with the new driver just seem to be a bit shorter.

crap, I just burned my pizza while typing this response

[DJYoshi]

driver is around 250-280 on the norm.
3 wood is up to 250....all flat calm conditions.

these are with roll no carry.
my ss is 98 - 110 with the driver. i haven't clocked it with a 3 wood.

[cocky_watchman]

I don't think swing speed should be the absolute decider on whether you get a stiff shaft or not. My swing speed was measured at 97mph for the driver and the sales gyt recommended a stiff shaft accordingly. Indeed, he was quite insistent that this was essential for me and would give me straighter and possibly as a consequence longer shots. I cut the ball sometimes and was a little woried I would find it even harder to square the club face-I told him this, but he dismissed my thoughts. Guess what, I could do nothing but hit a low slice-at best the odd fade, with the stiff shaft. I got it swapped free of charge to the regular red fuji shaft (tour trajectory, but still low kick point regular) and now I hit it pretty straight again (well mostly).

The moral of the story is if you swing quite quickly but cut the ball, fade it, power fade it or slice-WHATEVER YOU CALL IT!!! Stiff shaft might not be for you!