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Posted
how much harder to hit are the AP2's? I am looking into the AP1's and 2's and right off the bat prefer the AP2's due to the traditional lofting PW is 48 degrees instead of 45 degrees on the AP1. Also prefer a forged club. But if the AP2's are really that much harder to hit I dont think I can give up forgiveness for personal preference. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Posted
how much harder to hit are the AP2's? I am looking into the AP1's and 2's and right off the bat prefer the AP2's due to the traditional lofting PW is 48 degrees instead of 45 degrees on the AP1. Also prefer a forged club. But if the AP2's are really that much harder to hit I dont think I can give up forgiveness for personal preference. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I'm an 8 handicap, and went with the AP-1 because of the added forgivemness. They still have some workabilty. All I know is my iron play has improved after switching from blades (TM R7 TP and Cobra FCB).

My Tools of Ignorance:

Driver: Ping I20 9.5*
Woods/Hybrids: Cobra AMP 3W and 3 HY

Irons: Cobra AMP 4-GW

Wedges: Callaway Forged Copper 56* and 60*

Putters: Scotty Cameron  35" (Several of the flow neck blade variety)

Ball: Bridgestone B330-RX and Srixon Z-Star

Bag: Nike Performance Carry


Posted
how much harder to hit are the AP2's? I am looking into the AP1's and 2's and right off the bat prefer the AP2's due to the traditional lofting PW is 48 degrees instead of 45 degrees on the AP1. Also prefer a forged club. But if the AP2's are really that much harder to hit I dont think I can give up forgiveness for personal preference. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I asked this same question a few days ago. Here is the thread. Hope it helps you as much as it did me. Made my decision to go with the A1's a bit easier.

http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23878

Posted
I think not, also I think that the PW is 47° not 48°.

Cheers!

Driver: 905R 9.5° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Fairway: 906F2 15° (UST Proforce V2 Stiff) | Hybrid: 585.H 21° (S300) | Irons: AP2 4-PW (Project X 6.0) | Wedges: Vokey Design 52.08, 56.11 & 60.11  | Putter: Studio Select Newport 2 

www.flickr.com/avm_photo


Posted
The AP1 irons are great, just don't think the AP2s are worth another $300, and the extra forgiveness is a bonus.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
I got some AP1s in a rental set last week. Those were some NICE clubs! Every iron shot was smooth.

Driver: Nike Ignite 10.5 w/ Fujikura Motore F1
2H: King Cobra
4H: Nickent 4DX
5H: Adams A3
6I 7I 8I 9I PW: Mizuno mp-57Wedges: Mizuno MP T-10 50, 54, 58 Ball: random


Posted
AP1's are a better value, IMO, but I liked the feel of the AP2's. I'd be better served with the 1's, but I like the look and feel of the 2's better. I've also heard there is a blade coming as the next adition to the AP line.

FTi 10* Draw w/ ProLaunch Blue 65g Stiff
5 Wood
Walter Hagen Ultradyne Blades 3-PW
52*
X-Tour Vintage 56.13 X-Forged Chrome 64.09 Dual Force BladeBall: B330Rx or Pro V1


Posted
Alright here is the scoop. AP1 irons are considered "game improving" irons. They are easier to hit and because of the the lower lofts they go further which helps on mishit shots. The downside to these clubs is the fact that they are NOT forged so the pre-set lie angle that you purchase them with is permanent. The AP2 irons are designed for higher skilled players who like to shape shots either way. And because they are forged you can adjust the lie as needed. The upside to buying the AP2 is that they a cavity-backed forged irons and because of that you will have a little more forgiveness than a forged blade. I currently play with the AP2's and I love them. They feel solid when I hit it pure and that is a major +. Hope this helps and good luck with your club hunting.

*Former High School Golfer*
*Playing at Cabrillo College starting Fall 2009*
* Taylormade R7 460 10.5 degree with ProForce V2 stiff shaft cut to 42"*
* Taylormade R7 TP 15 degree 5 wood
* Taylormade R7 TP 18 degree hybrid** Titleist AP2 3-PW w/ Project X 6.0** Titleist Vokey Design 52.10...


Posted
You have to ask yourself, am I more concerned about looks, or score? A low number on the card is my choice every time, go with what works best on the less than perfect swings we all make on occasion.

:tmade: 09 Burner
:cobra: Speed LD F 3 wood
:cobra: Baffler 20 degree hybrid
:cobra: Baffler TWS 23 hy
:ping: G15 5-UW
:snake_eyes: 56 deg SW 
:snake_eyes: 60 - 12 wedge  
:scotty_cameron: Studio Select Newport 2


Posted
It's all personal preference… It hit both and liked the AP2’s better than the AP1’s, but that was my personal preference.
Now for me I came from an oversize cavity back cast iron to the AP2’s, I still hit them straight as an arrow (sometimes a slight fade), but I am not getting the same distance. Which I believe is due to just adjusting to new irons.
It’s also going to comedown to what you can afford, with the AP1’s being cheaper they might be more appealing.
I’d also hit some other clubs, Mizuno makes some irons that are competitive with the AP2’s, but cost about the price of the AP1’s. I wish I would have tried a few others I might have chosen something else.
Good luck

In my Stand-Bag

905T D 9.5º
MX 700 3W 15º
AP2 3-PW DCI Oversize+ Black SW 56º 588 LW 60º DF 550 P


Posted
I hit both, I prefered the AP2's. I'm not exactly what it was about them but they felt better to me.

Aerolite III bag
MP600 10.5*
F-50 15*
MP57's Project X 5.5 3-PW
CG10 56* RAC 52* 60* 2 Ball putter ProV1/ProV1X Blackberry Storm GolfLogix


Posted
Not only did the AP2's have better look to them but they also felt better to me. The AP1's are far to bulky in my opinion. I say buy the AP2's but thats just me. I also got a great deal on mine throught the local JC so when you don't have to pay a grand for irons it makes the decision a little easier. I would also look at the Cleveland CG Golds which are the tour verision and I also like the Mizuno MP 57s and Bridgestone J36 full cavitys. All these irons have a little forgiveness but are more or a players iron.

909 D2 9.5* Voodoo
906 F4 15.5* UST V2
3DX DC 19* UST SR2
AP2 3-PW PX 5.5
Vokey SM 52.08 & 58.08 DG S300 Circa '62 no. 7 NXT TourWhite Tacki-Mac Itomic Career Low: 1 over par 71


Posted
I wanted to like the AP1 better, for reasons listed by others and for the sake of my bank account. However, for whatever reason, I was able to hit the AP2's easily and did not find any added benefit from the forgiveness/size of the AP1. To be honest, I don't notice the "forged" feeling of the AP2s that much, not compared to previous sets of Mizunos, but I like the size better, so I wrote the check.

Posted
Its all about what you like to feel and look down at. IMO anything still takes getting used to and even after awhile you may not like the look of something but hit it good, my driver is a perfect example of an ugly ass club that I cant stand to look at but I can it better than any driver I have held in my hands.

909 D2 9.5* Voodoo
906 F4 15.5* UST V2
3DX DC 19* UST SR2
AP2 3-PW PX 5.5
Vokey SM 52.08 & 58.08 DG S300 Circa '62 no. 7 NXT TourWhite Tacki-Mac Itomic Career Low: 1 over par 71


Posted
I have the AP2's with PX 5.5's, and love them, and they've helped me down from 12 to 9.8 so far this year.
The AP1's just looked too bulky much like my Zing2's I had played years with, and I wanted a players type iron, to be able to tell when I had hit it well and therefore helping my iron play overall.
Took me a while to fully bed in with them, but wouldnt go back.

In my Bag:
909D2 10.5deg DFX Stiff
WarBird 5 Wood - steel shaft.
Titleist AP2 3-PW
Vokey Spin Milled 54 & 60deg 2 Ball Ball : ProV's.


Note: This thread is 6009 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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